Cam Chain adjustment...

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Well

Well, you are the first to not have "slightly" erratic idle on an in line 4 bike, I have just notified "ginness book of records" they say they have been looking long and hard for you

I am not endorsing this in any way. nor auto cct either(as a must).and BTW

Not on my rides. Unacceptable.

[ViperRon]

Came chain Adjustment

Everyone has an opinion mine is that normally the chain has enough centrifugal force at idle to cause this procedure to increase slack in the chain causing more valve noise (Top Cat Theorem) In an abnormal situation someone may have changed the spring in the tensioner or just grabbed it and over extended it compensating for this making this procedure work just fine for you. What can not be compensated for is bad luck in this situation. All that would have to happen is for one miss in a cylinder at idle to occur and valves could bend and pistons crack. For me it seems like a big risk to avoid taking loose 4 screws and rotating the engine. Might actually be safer to just not adjust the chain think of how easy that is.

[TADracer]

My thought is that the 'while running' method is probably a tactic best left to use on a manual chain tensioner where you can completely control the situation. With the OEM tensioner, you are relying on the plunger spring to keep tension when the pinch bolt is loosened. Granted the tensioner is on the slack side of the chain but, a hickup while idleing and the chain can jump a tooth.

[James England]

I would never, never, ever... run an engine with a slack cam chain, regardless of who says it can be done. Especially since the people saying it aren't likely to pay for any repairs if they're wrong.

IMO, it's a potentially engine-killing, totally daft idea that isn't worth risking in order to save ten minutes. As a late friend of mine used to say about things like this "it's setting a mackerel to catch a sprat". It feels like Russian Roulette to me.

The best thing anyone can do if they are bothered about the time taken to adjust the tensioner is to to do what I did about 8 months ago and which many other people have done, and fit an auto tensioner. I've done 5,000 miles on mine and it's excellent. As we all know, the weedy OEM tensioner slips, gets bumps asnd grooves in the plunger rod and therefore slides under decelleration etc etc. As has been said, you only have to look at one off the bike to see.

The thing about insane ideas like this being mooted is that someone out there, new to the XS1100 and new to the forum, might just go off and try it! Hence the rather blunt response from me DON'T DO IT. Don't even think about it....

[Bonz]

Just checking in, holy smoke u guys have theory and such to go around for years! I'll say this method is completely safe as I have used it many times and leave it at that. I can see some idiot screwing it up, no doubt, but it makes perfect mechanical sense and simple maintenance for those willing to to it carefully.

[James England]

I'll say this method is completely safe as I have used it many times and leave it at that.

"That's just not logical, Captain".

You've got away with it so far but that doesn't mean it's "completely safe". I'd just fit the auto-tensioner. It takes so little time, won't slide out of adjustment on the overrun and is maintenance-free. Oh... and inexpensive

[DAVINCI]

but it makes perfect mechanical sense

Howard, please explain how this makes sense.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ok

OK, some have done this and had good results, so you can't argue with success I don't see the advantage of taking a chance of skipping a tooth and waxing a motor (especialy with a warn timming chain) It takes me less then 5 min. to remove the cover and plugs, so what am I saving here, is it a much tighter chain adjustment or just hocus pocus

[DAVINCI]

voodoo mechanics

[Bonz]

Well, what a pot I've stirred here, eh? Really appreciate the responses, and Davinci, you have a valid point simply saying "please explain how this makes sense"...

Keep in mind, I got my bike 3 years ago, and was told by the previous owner to follow the handwritten cct instructions that the mechanic had added to the factory manual on adjusting the cam chain. So, it made perfect sense to do it that way. And because there has been no issue to this point (not that something couldn't happen as I have now learned, mind you, but just that nothing negative has happened with this being the method this bike has had for 32 years), it makes "perfect mechanical sense" because the desired result is achieved with no downside.

Maybe I over-stated the "loosening" of the adjuster bolt more than I should have. I simply loosen the lock nut, put the wrench on the bolt, hold the wrench on the bolt, back it out just a hair, keep the wrench on the bolt, let it idle for 30 seconds and tighten it back up. It's NOT a warm cam chain as I believe someone mentioned that earlier. The bike is started, idled for 1 minute or so, then the adjustment is done. The chain is cold at that point. In the grand scheme, it's my feeling that a cam chain has to be REALLY loose for it to skip, and I am certain this method does not introduce that level of slack.

I am really surprised this method hasn't reared it's head before in the history of this forum regardless of whether it's daffy or not...

I've learned some things in this thread that are helpful, so thanks to all that have chimed in.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

hbonser

Hey hbonser, not saying it don't work, you are proof it does, I did ask for a copy of the paper you got telling how and why to do it this way instead of the manual way? Would still like to see that if you don't mind

Well, what a pot I've stirred here, eh? Really appreciate the responses, and Davinci, you have a valid point simply saying "please explain how this makes sense"...

Keep in mind, I got my bike 3 years ago, and was told by the previous owner to follow the handwritten cct instructions that the mechanic had added to the factory manual on adjusting the cam chain. So, it made perfect sense to do it that way. And because there has been no issue to this point (not that something couldn't happen as I have now learned, mind you, but just that nothing negative has happened with this being the method this bike has had for 32 years), it makes "perfect mechanical sense" because the desired result is achieved with no downside.

Maybe I over-stated the "loosening" of the adjuster bolt more than I should have. I simply loosen the lock nut, put the wrench on the bolt, hold the wrench on the bolt, back it out just a hair, keep the wrench on the bolt, let it idle for 30 seconds and tighten it back up. It's NOT a warm cam chain as I believe someone mentioned that earlier. The bike is started, idled for 1 minute or so, then the adjustment is done. The chain is cold at that point. In the grand scheme, it's my feeling that a cam chain has to be REALLY loose for it to skip, and I am certain this method does not introduce that level of slack.

I am really surprised this method hasn't reared it's head before in the history of this forum regardless of whether it's daffy or not...

I've learned some things in this thread that are helpful, so thanks to all that have chimed in.

[mack]

cct

go ahead joey, lick the frost of the fence post, nothing will happen, I promise.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

TOO funny

Too Funny, hey, I agree, but it is their toung, so what will be will beat least they saved 5 min. from doing it right

go ahead joey, lick the frost of the fence post, nothing will happen, I promise.

[cywelchjr]

OK, some have done this and had good results, so you can't argue with success I don't see the advantage of taking a chance of skipping a tooth and waxing a motor (especialy with a warn timming chain) It takes me less then 5 min. to remove the cover and plugs, so what am I saving here, is it a much tighter chain adjustment or just hocus pocus

I think we have proof it CAN work, but I'm not going to try it on brutus. He is just temperamental enough to cough while I'm doing it and skip a tooth. I've never took the plugs out either. I just gently turn the engine in the direction marked on the wheel two revolutions and then perform the procedure. I do however plan on putting an auto CCT on before summer.

[Rasputin]

Not that I think I would try this, but there is a point that could be made. I have Auto tensioners in a couple of my bikes. Is it not true that these auto CCT's do exactly what he is describing. The spring pressure will simply take up the slack when there is enough. The ratchet part simply keeps it from working against the spring. It is not like the bike naturally stops at the "C" mark on the timing when you shut it off and it auto adjusts then.