Cam Chain adjustment...
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1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8 -
Came chain Adjustment
Everyone has an opinion mine is that normally the chain has enough centrifugal force at idle to cause this procedure to increase slack in the chain causing more valve noise (Top Cat Theorem) In an abnormal situation someone may have changed the spring in the tensioner or just grabbed it and over extended it compensating for this making this procedure work just fine for you. What can not be compensated for is bad luck in this situation. All that would have to happen is for one miss in a cylinder at idle to occur and valves could bend and pistons crack. For me it seems like a big risk to avoid taking loose 4 screws and rotating the engine. Might actually be safer to just not adjust the chain think of how easy that is.To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
Rodan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
1980 G Silverbird
Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
1198 Overbore kit
Grizzly 660 ACCT
Barnett Clutch Springs
R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
122.5 Main Jets
ACCT Mod
Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
Antivibe Bar ends
Rear trunk add-on
http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/
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My thought is that the 'while running' method is probably a tactic best left to use on a manual chain tensioner where you can completely control the situation. With the OEM tensioner, you are relying on the plunger spring to keep tension when the pinch bolt is loosened. Granted the tensioner is on the slack side of the chain but, a hickup while idleing and the chain can jump a tooth.Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.Comment
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I would never, never, ever... run an engine with a slack cam chain, regardless of who says it can be done. Especially since the people saying it aren't likely to pay for any repairs if they're wrong.
IMO, it's a potentially engine-killing, totally daft idea that isn't worth risking in order to save ten minutes. As a late friend of mine used to say about things like this "it's setting a mackerel to catch a sprat". It feels like Russian Roulette to me.
The best thing anyone can do if they are bothered about the time taken to adjust the tensioner is to to do what I did about 8 months ago and which many other people have done, and fit an auto tensioner. I've done 5,000 miles on mine and it's excellent. As we all know, the weedy OEM tensioner slips, gets bumps asnd grooves in the plunger rod and therefore slides under decelleration etc etc. As has been said, you only have to look at one off the bike to see.
The thing about insane ideas like this being mooted is that someone out there, new to the XS1100 and new to the forum, might just go off and try it! Hence the rather blunt response from meDON'T DO IT. Don't even think about it....
Last edited by James England; 12-28-2011, 07:31 AM.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.Comment
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Just checking in, holy smoke u guys have theory and such to go around for years! I'll say this method is completely safe as I have used it many times and leave it at that. I can see some idiot screwing it up, no doubt, but it makes perfect mechanical sense and simple maintenance for those willing to to it carefully.Howard
ZRX1200
BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462Comment
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You've got away with it so far but that doesn't mean it's "completely safe". I'd just fit the auto-tensioner. It takes so little time, won't slide out of adjustment on the overrun and is maintenance-free. Oh... and inexpensiveXS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.Comment
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Ok
OK, some have done this and had good results, so you can't argue with successI don't see the advantage of taking a chance of skipping a tooth and waxing a motor (especialy with a warn timming chain) It takes me less then 5 min. to remove the cover and plugs, so what am I saving here, is it a much tighter chain adjustment or just hocus pocus
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8Comment
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Well, what a pot I've stirred here, eh? Really appreciate the responses, and Davinci, you have a valid point simply saying "please explain how this makes sense"...
Keep in mind, I got my bike 3 years ago, and was told by the previous owner to follow the handwritten cct instructions that the mechanic had added to the factory manual on adjusting the cam chain. So, it made perfect sense to do it that way. And because there has been no issue to this point (not that something couldn't happen as I have now learned, mind you, but just that nothing negative has happened with this being the method this bike has had for 32 years), it makes "perfect mechanical sense" because the desired result is achieved with no downside.
Maybe I over-stated the "loosening" of the adjuster bolt more than I should have. I simply loosen the lock nut, put the wrench on the bolt, hold the wrench on the bolt, back it out just a hair, keep the wrench on the bolt, let it idle for 30 seconds and tighten it back up. It's NOT a warm cam chain as I believe someone mentioned that earlier. The bike is started, idled for 1 minute or so, then the adjustment is done. The chain is cold at that point. In the grand scheme, it's my feeling that a cam chain has to be REALLY loose for it to skip, and I am certain this method does not introduce that level of slack.
I am really surprised this method hasn't reared it's head before in the history of this forum regardless of whether it's daffy or not...
I've learned some things in this thread that are helpful, so thanks to all that have chimed in.Howard
ZRX1200
BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462Comment
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hbonser
Hey hbonser, not saying it don't work, you are proof it does, I did ask for a copy of the paper you got telling how and why to do it this way instead of the manual way? Would still like to see that if you don't mind
Well, what a pot I've stirred here, eh? Really appreciate the responses, and Davinci, you have a valid point simply saying "please explain how this makes sense"...
Keep in mind, I got my bike 3 years ago, and was told by the previous owner to follow the handwritten cct instructions that the mechanic had added to the factory manual on adjusting the cam chain. So, it made perfect sense to do it that way. And because there has been no issue to this point (not that something couldn't happen as I have now learned, mind you, but just that nothing negative has happened with this being the method this bike has had for 32 years), it makes "perfect mechanical sense" because the desired result is achieved with no downside.
Maybe I over-stated the "loosening" of the adjuster bolt more than I should have. I simply loosen the lock nut, put the wrench on the bolt, hold the wrench on the bolt, back it out just a hair, keep the wrench on the bolt, let it idle for 30 seconds and tighten it back up. It's NOT a warm cam chain as I believe someone mentioned that earlier. The bike is started, idled for 1 minute or so, then the adjustment is done. The chain is cold at that point. In the grand scheme, it's my feeling that a cam chain has to be REALLY loose for it to skip, and I am certain this method does not introduce that level of slack.
I am really surprised this method hasn't reared it's head before in the history of this forum regardless of whether it's daffy or not...
I've learned some things in this thread that are helpful, so thanks to all that have chimed in.1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8Comment
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cct
go ahead joey, lick the frost of the fence post, nothing will happen, I promise.mack
79 XS 1100 SF Special
HERMES
original owner
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg
81 XS 1100 LH MNS
SPICA
http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg
78 XS 11E
IOTA
https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA
Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
Frankford, Ont, Canada
613-398-6186Comment
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1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8Comment
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OK, some have done this and had good results, so you can't argue with successI don't see the advantage of taking a chance of skipping a tooth and waxing a motor (especialy with a warn timming chain) It takes me less then 5 min. to remove the cover and plugs, so what am I saving here, is it a much tighter chain adjustment or just hocus pocus
Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.Comment
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Not that I think I would try this, but there is a point that could be made. I have Auto tensioners in a couple of my bikes. Is it not true that these auto CCT's do exactly what he is describing. The spring pressure will simply take up the slack when there is enough. The ratchet part simply keeps it from working against the spring. It is not like the bike naturally stops at the "C" mark on the timing when you shut it off and it auto adjusts then.2-79 XS1100 SF
2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!Comment
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