Cam Chain adjustment...

[Bonz]

Ok, up front I will admit I'm still running the stock cam chain tensioner. I have read up a lot on upgrading to an automatic cct, but just haven't seen the need at this point.

With that said, the adjustment procedure in the tech tips is different than the one I've been using. The one I use was stapled on a sheet of paper in the factory service manual by one of the mechanics at the Yamaha dealer way back when the bike first came out.

Here's that method in a nutshell, and it seems to work great.

Start the bike, let it idle for a minute or so. Loosen the lock nut on the cct, then back out the cct adjustment bolt until it begins to get a bit noisy, then snug the cct adjustment bolt back up, tighten the locknut, and it's done. Obviously, don't back the bolt out far, just until I can tell it's a bit loose, then tighten back up.

Makes adjusting the cam chain simpler, and thus I do it more often than I otherwise would if I was pulling the timing cover off.

Anyone else used that method, or did I just start the new rage in simplifying cam chain adjustment by posting this?

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Do you do the adjustment with the bike running Can you copy the FSM for review?

Ok, up front I will admit I'm still running the stock cam chain tensioner. I have read up a lot on upgrading to an automatic cct, but just haven't seen the need at this point.

With that said, the adjustment procedure in the tech tips is different than the one I've been using. The one I use was stapled on a sheet of paper in the factory service manual by one of the mechanics at the Yamaha dealer way back when the bike first came out.

Here's that method in a nutshell, and it seems to work great.

Start the bike, let it idle for a minute or so. Loosen the lock nut on the cct, then back out the cct adjustment bolt until it begins to get a bit noisy, then snug the cct adjustment bolt back up, tighten the locknut, and it's done. Obviously, don't back the bolt out far, just until I can tell it's a bit loose, then tighten back up.

Makes adjusting the cam chain simpler, and thus I do it more often than I otherwise would if I was pulling the timing cover off.

Anyone else used that method, or did I just start the new rage in simplifying cam chain adjustment by posting this?

[Bonz]

Yes, engine running...
Start bike, let idle for a minute, then WITH engine idling, loosen adjuster, let bike idle for 30 seconds and tighten back up. Works like a charm.

[oldyam80sg]

I never heard of that procedure before.I dont really think you want the bike running with the chain even the slighest bit loose.

[skids]

If you back it out until it is noisy, then tighten the stopper bolt, you will end up with noise, right? It is the spring that does the tightening at the loosest position of the chain. When you say loosen it just a bit, it could act the same as a stripped stopper bolt hole where it has just enough sticksion to hold the plunger in a too-loose position. I bent some valves with a stripped stopper bolt hole. I would be too afraid to try that method...OK, I am a big pussy!

[oldyam80sg]

Just a thought-last year i didnt exactly follow the book procedure and almost screwed up a motorcycle that I have had since 1986.You can do what you want as far as the procedure the mechanic wrote down-several people on this board can tell you different-you can easily bend valves.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Would never suggest this would not work, Will state I will never know.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

That is why

That is why I am asking questions. Never heard of losening the CCT bolt while the motor is running I would still love to see the Yamaha FSM on how to do this, just very strange to me, not saying it don't work, just would like to know more

[SFerinTEXAS]

Actually I can see the theory is good, just not willing to try it to save a few more minutes of work.Usually do the chain during oil change,battery maint,etc so its down for a while any way.

[cywelchjr]

I can't see myself finding out if this would work myself either. My valves are more important than the extra 10 minutes it takes to remove the cover, rotate the engine to the proper place per the FSM before doing the adjustment. It doesn't really take that long to do, I've even popped the cover off and changed the timing by a degree or two cause I was getting a little bit of pinging and didn't care for it. Since I carry a full set of tools in the right saddlebag, it's not that big a deal to spin those 4 little bolts out.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Never heard of losening the CCT bolt while the motor is running

And you wont. Seasoned mechanics have methods that never make it into books. With an absolutely rock solid steady idle the cam chain is pulled tight as good if not tighter than static by the crank up rearward across the top to the exhaust cam.The tensioner simply puts the same pressure on the slack chain in the front as when static. a slightly erratic idle would not work.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Seasoned mechanics

Yea, only 35 years ago I was an ASE mechanic, and trained at the GM training center for their "tips" on how to use "their" time saving tips. Like useing an air torque wrench instead of a torque wrench to tighten rods. mains and heads, etc Their "methods that never make into the books" don't for a reason. You can and will always have a "slightly erratic idle" on these bikes. I suggest you guys stick to doing it right and save your motors, just IMHO

And you wont. Seasoned mechanics have methods that never make it into books. With an absolutely rock solid steady idle the cam chain is pulled tight as good if not tighter than static by the crank up rearward across the top to the exhaust cam.The tensioner simply puts the same pressure on the slack chain in the front as when static. a slightly erratic idle would not work.

[TopCatGr58]

Well, even with a rock steady idle, I still don't believe that the chain would be as slack as with the engine off. The chain is ~3 foot long, moving at some 1500 feet a minute at 1k engine rpm. Entire length of chain completes travel with 2 crank rpms, so 3 feet x 500 rpm = 1500 feet per minute.

A fair amount of inertia and momentum in the moving chain which would put more pressure against the chain guide and plunger/spring assembly of the CCT when it's actually running vs. static. So...IMHO, I think it would/could result in a more slack adjustment setting with it running than with the static adjustment!

I won't be trying it, that's for sure.

T.C.

[motoman]

That's way too nice of Special(and low miles) to be playing that game Howard!.......and is corrulated to the reason for doing it often.. BTW, that scoot WILL carry you with more smootness and less effort if the cams were in time.....all the time. Put an auto adjuster in that beatiful 81' before I have to read a hbonser thread along the lines of " valves kissing pistons". Even done stationary, as should be done, that stock adjuster DOES and WILL back off! If you don't believe it, after pulling stock adjuster, take alook at the set screw marks in the shaft..........pretty much tells the story.........have not seen one yet that hasn't slipped!......poor design of housing and a poor excuse for a set screw/bolt.....

[SFerinTEXAS]

I am not endorsing this in any way. nor auto cct either(as a must).and BTW

You can and will always have a "slightly erratic idle" on these bikes.

Not on my rides. Unacceptable.