Two Prong Flasher Auto Cancel Mod (Final)

[CatatonicBug]

I just received the relays and flasher I ordered , so I'm ready to give this a try. I think I have it all layed out, but I am a newbie when it comes to electrical. I bought some perf board, so as Cy suggested, I will mount the relays and flasher on the perf board. Any tips/advice on soldering the relatively thick 14 guage wire to those small leads on the relays? Should the leads remain straight, or is it better to bend them? I bought 2 sets of relays just in case I mess up.

DO NOT bend the leads on the relays! They will snap off very easily. I used slightly smaller wire for the relays though - the stuff that came on little spools at Radio Shack. Tin the leads, and the wires, and make sure to leave plenty of bendy room on the wires. You can pre-bend them to make them fit better too.

I suggest getting some spade connectors (like Geezer sells), as well as using a 90º insulated connector to make a "Splice" into the fuse box connection. This will make it so you don't need to cut ANY wires on the harness.

[TheRev]

Does anyone have pictures on how this is done. I am slow when it comes to wiring. Thanks

[Schming]

Thanks to ELDR for researching how the stock flasher works which gave me the background needed to figure this out. If you

are running LED turn signals you might consider his flasher module which does the same thing but is limited to LED lights

only.

This mod is really quite simple. It requires cutting two wires close to the flasher connector and wiring in two relays.

First, get together the parts and tools you will need to do this. Here is the list of parts and tools that I used.

Tools:

Soldering Iron
Needle Nose Pliers
DVOM for Troubleshooting

Parts:

Heat Shrink Tubing
Zip ties (cable ties)
Mounting bases for cable ties
10 Amp SPDT 12v 30 MA Relay Philmore part # BG-112
2 Amp DPDT 1v 15 MA sensitive coil Relay NTE part # R40-11D2-12
6" to 12" of 14 gauge stranded automotive wire



Now, your going to start by cutting two wires close to the flasher plug, one you can cut as close as you want, the other

you need to leave enough wire to strip, tin and solder another wire to.

Cut the Yellow/Green wire, you can cut this as close to the connector as you want, as it will NOT get connected back to the

connector, this is drive the 2 amp relay which will in turn drive the 10 amp relay. This is done because the 2 amp relay

cannot handle normal bulbs, but the auto cancel unit can't drive the 10 amp relay.

Next cut the Brown wire. Make sure to cut this far enough from the connector that you can connect another wire to both ends

to extend the wire, you will be inserting the 10 amp relay in here to enable it to turn off the turn signals when the auto

cancel unit tells it to.

Determine where you want to locate the relays, I located mine just below where the flasher unit lives, and since they are

really small and light I let them just hang by the wires, but you can fasten them in place with double sided tape or with

zip ties if you wish.

For the 2 amp relay find the switch side of the relay and connect the previous relay wire to one side switched setup for

normally open operation, connect the other side to either the brown wire of the turn signal relay or as I did connect it to

the downstream side of the turn signals fuse (I added it to the crimp connector). Connect the coil, one side to the

Green/Yellow wire from the bikes harness, and the other side to a good ground, I used the same ground screw as I used for

the other relay.

Now, slide some heat shrink over one of the wires for the coil side of the 10 amp relay, but keep it back a ways so it

doesn't shrink when you solder the wire. Solder the wire to the output of the 2 amp relay. Push the shrink tubing up and

strink it into place. Connect the other wire to a good ground, I used the ground screw of the accessory connector.

Find the leads for the switch side of the 10 amp relay, and find the normally closed side. The DVOM on ohms can be your

friend here. Solder a short piece of wire to each side of the normally closed switch. Put shrink tubing over it and shrink

it with a heat source (I use the soldering iron). Do the same with the coil side of the relay, keep track of which ones are

which.

Now, the last electrical part, solder the remaining two wires to the two brown wires, making sure to cover the solder

joints with heat shrink. Fasten everything into place, I used the cable tie mounting bases and cable ties to mount things,

and your ready to test.

If you did everything right, you can turn on the turn signals before starting the bike, and then start the bike. The turn

signals should not come on when the key is turned on. If they do, recheck your wiring job and parts, if everything is

working properly the system comes up with the flasher inhibited.

If this test passes, take it out for a test run, the auto cancel should work just like you have the stock flasher in place

with the correct normal bulbs, whether you have the normal bulbs or LED bulbs.

The Schematic:

Does anyone have pictures on how this is done. I am slow when it comes to wiring. Thanks

Here ya go from the first page

[TheRev]

Can anyone who has done this mod post an actual pic of the units together? I am color blink and am having trouble figuring this out. I purchased all the necessary parts. Also, doe the engine need to be running to test the lights and signals? Thanks

[natemoen]

Unfortunately Cy passed away a couple years ago before he really finalized this unit.

[CatatonicBug]

I don't know how far anyone else has gone with this mod, but my unit has been working great since I installed it. Here are a few pictures of what is on my bike. The schematic above is pretty good, but I do suggest making one last tweak to it so you don't have to cut any of the OEM wires, making it 100% reversible.

And to answer the question, the engine does not need to be running to test the flashers, but the bike needs to be moving to test the canceling feature.

[TheRev]

I am confused again. This diagram is difficult to understand. Both of the relays say 12v but not the amps. Which one is the 2 amp and which one is the 10 amp? Also, is the flasher connector the three prong unit that connects to the round flasher?

Here ya go from the first page

[TheRev]

So please help me figure out the 10 amp relay. So I cut the brown wire coming off of the original flasher connector (the black plug coming off the harness) and solder that to the "common" pin on the 10 amp relay. Then I solder a short jumper wire to the "common" pin and onto the "NC" pin on the same relay?

Cy - I finally got all the pieces together to make this mod happen this weekend, and failed miserably. The little tabs on the relays are so tiny that the weight of the wires ended up snapping them off! I found a socket for the 2A relay to prevent this from happening again. I couldn't find a socket for the 10A relay, but those pins are a little more robust.

I have ordered new relays (and a socket), but I'm a bit confused. When looking at the circuit diagram, I don't see the reason for a DPDT relay. It only uses half the pins. Wouldn't a SPDT relay work just fine? OFC, I'm mostly clueless when it comes to components.

The 2A relay has 8 pins on it, and they are numbered 1,4,6,8,9,11,13,16. According to the Data Sheet, 1 and 16 are the coil pins. If I'm reading it correctly, 4 and 13 are both common, then 6 and 11 are NC, and 8 and 9 are NO. Am I reading that correctly? If so, Which pins are the correct ones to use?

Would this be correct?

Pin 1 - spliced to yellow/green on the flasher plug
Pin 16 - to negative screw on accessory jack (convenient ground screw in the area)
Pin 4 - spliced to +12v wire on the Turn Signal fuse
Pin 8 - to coil pin on 10A relay

Then, for the 10A relay, there are 5 pins. Thankfully, they are well-marked. The 2 coil pins, a common pin, a NO pin, and a NC pin.

One coil pin is already connected to the 2A relay. The other goes to the same Neg terminal on the Accessory block.
The brown wire from the flasher connector gets cut, and re-connected to the Common pin and the NC pin. I used bullet connectors here instead of soldering, so I can remove the relays and put it back to stock if desired.
The NO pin is not used.

Can you verify that this is correct? What I plan to do is get this circuit all working, then pot the whole unit in a container of silicone to make it waterproof and vibration-resistant.

[crazy steve]

The relays will have their amp ratings on the housings. The smaller relay is used for the cancel function and was selected because it has a relatively low 'pull in' voltage/current, low enough to operate with the output from the OEM canceller unit.

[TheRev]

Oh. I see you used spade connectors and pushed them into the appropriate slots in the flasher plug. Is that correct? Good thinking.

I don't know how far anyone else has gone with this mod, but my unit has been working great since I installed it. Here are a few pictures of what is on my bike. The schematic above is pretty good, but I do suggest making one last tweak to it so you don't have to cut any of the OEM wires, making it 100% reversible.

And to answer the question, the engine does not need to be running to test the flashers, but the bike needs to be moving to test the canceling feature.

[TheRev]

Ok I think I have most of the connections correct except for two things. I am stuck on the brown wire coming off the original plug. In your instructions it says connect it to the common pin on the 10 amp relay and the NC pin. How do I do that?

Also, when and where do I connect the electronic flasher? It has one black and one red wire.

Please help I would like to finish this mod tonight. Thanks

So please help me figure out the 10 amp relay. So I cut the brown wire coming off of the original flasher connector (the black plug coming off the harness) and solder that to the "common" pin on the 10 amp relay. Then I solder a short jumper wire to the "common" pin and onto the "NC" pin on the same relay?

[CatatonicBug]

Here's another diagram, with the actual pinouts. Hopefully, it will help in the confusion.

[TheRev]

So the brown wire from the plug gets soldered to the Common pin only? Or am i missing something? Thanks

[CatatonicBug]

Yes. I soldered a wire to the pin and put a spade terminal to the other end, then plugged the spade terminal into the flasher plug.