Originally posted by XSLevi
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Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by XSLevi View PostI broke the board, severing the copper film in several places. I have just made arrangements to recieve a known good unit from DAVINCI, who I understand is knowledgable and trustworthy. Hoping this will solve the problem, but if not, at least I will have eliminated the TCI as a variable."If A equals success, then the formula is: A = X + Y + Z. X is work. Y is play. Z is keep your mouth shut." - Albert Einstein
"Illegitimi non carborundum"-Joseph W. "Vinegar Joe" Stilwell
1980 LG
1981 LH
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The wire are usually the problem, they break over time due to all the movement of the advance unit.
Go and pull on the wires one at a time down by the timing plate and I bet they will stretch, that is your break in the wire. Splice in new wires, multi meter wires are good because they are very flexible, and you are good to go.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Nate, I'm thinking it might be the coil itself. I've made teeney little slits in the insulation of the p/u coil wires right before they enter the plastic housing of the coil. Testing there for continuity across the coil gets me the infinity reading. However, If I check a single wire for continuity between the point where I made the slit, and up top at the corresponding pin, I get .05 or so Ohms. I think this means that the p/u coil itself is bad right? The good p/u coil shows something like .765 ohms ACROSS the coil. Is there any way to fix these?
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Originally posted by XSLevi View PostDoes anyone know if I can use P/U coils from an earlier bike? I understand that the unit is different w/ regard to mechanical advance, but I'm wondering if I can just rob the p/u coild themselves off off an earlier unit.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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SUCCESS!! (sort of)
Finally, Cylinders 2 & 3 are firing! NOS P/U coil assembly cost 400.00 from speed & sport, so I decided to take a chance with a single P/U coil cut off of a salvage bike (30.00). Cut off the bad one & soldered the salvage piece in place. Bang! Bike is now firing all 4 plugs!
I still have not been able to get the thing to start. While cranking, it will give a little rumble like it wants to catch, but just doesn't quite get there. I've tried priming the cylinders with gas, and even some starting fliud. No luck.
I'm wondering if thefailure to start might be due to the timing being off, but I can't figure out how to set it on this bike. On earlier models there are slots where the P/U coil assembly bolts on to the crank case. Said slots allow for adjustment of the P/U coils relative to the position of the rotor. On the 81, intead of slots, there are holes, which fix the assembly in a pre-determined position. Does anybody know how to set timing on this thing?
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Originally posted by XSLevi View Post... On the 81, intead of slots, there are holes, which fix the assembly in a pre-determined position. Does anybody know how to set timing on this thing?
You might want to check cam timing, cam chain tension and valve lash if you haven't yet; if that's been messed with, that could be at least part of the problem...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Those MIGHT tell you, but other problems could affect those, and you could have problems with those and still have decent compression. You really need to get the manual and check the valve timing, cam chain tension (which is easy BTW) and the valve lash.
Also, just in case, cause it can happen, swap the orange and grey wires on the primary side of the ignition coils and see if that makes it fire up. It's possible that the coils are 180 out and if so this will fix it. If this doesn't fix it, or makes it pop out the carbs, put it back the way it was before continuing any further, but I fought for two days with a not starting engine and then finally on someones suggestion did this and it fired on the first press of the starter button.Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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Originally posted by XSLevi View PostSteve, would a compression test tell me if I'm good on those issues? Seems to me that valve trian issues will affect compression. Do you know what kind of numbers I should be getting on a compression test?
Valve lash can affect compression, but if you haven't checked any of this, it's a good time to do so; remember, the valve lash on these motors get tighter with wear, not looser, so adequate valve lash is critical...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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So uh, how do I do that? lol.
I think you must be right about the cam timing as I can't figure out what else it could be. I've cheked the maintainance section, there seems to be very little thier in how to set up cam timing. Any advice is apprecitated.
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Steve was right, exhaust cam was off by about 60 degrees. Got everything lined up (damn that was difficult!) & she fired off for the first time since I've had her! Only ran for about 2 seconds, but its good to see a little progress! Thank you to everyone who is sticking with this thread, without the help I would've turned her over to the shop long ago and would have learned nothing.
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And the shop would have cpst you a pretty penny too.
Wow, cam off by 60deg.
It's amazing you didn't bend any valves.
Keep going. You'll love it when you get her on the road.Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!
80G (Green paint(PO idea))
The Green Monster
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
Got him in '04.
bald tire & borrowing parts
80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
Scarlet
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
Got her in '11
Ready for the twisties!
81H (previously CPMaynard's)
Hugo
Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
Cold weather ride
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