My first project

[stevestrom]

I really like those pods you made makes me think that I want to do that to mine. Where did you get the crankcase filter? BTW the bike looks great!!!

Thanks, I am hoping that they prove easy to tune. The crank case filter was a cheapy from Lordco.

[trdriver71]

Thanks, I am hoping that they prove easy to tune. The crank case filter was a cheapy from Lordco.

But there is no lordco here in alberta.

[bikerphil]

MikesXS has a few for $12 or so. Check your local auto parts where they sell motorcycle oil filters, they might have 'em.

[lee_dutcher]

on that intake... did you cut and combine 2 p-traps ( like the one under my sink)? maybe a short ride up because 4 pods looks cool but 2 looks more ummm EQUAL to me i guess..looks more sleek and it doesent leave a big hole under where the air box used to be.....

[stevestrom]

on that intake... did you cut and combine 2 p-traps ( like the one under my sink)? maybe a short ride up because 4 pods looks cool but 2 looks more ummm EQUAL to me i guess..looks more sleek and it doesent leave a big hole under where the air box used to be.....

I don't really know what the pieces are called. I just picked up two p-traps (they were pretty close in spacing between the carbs and diameter, but needed a little sanding) cut a hole in the bottom of them, where the water would sit if they were installed on your sink. The other piece that I used has the same diameter on one end as the p-traps while the other is smaller and threaded. I sanded off the threads and shaped it so that it would fit snuggly in the hole I made in the p-trap.

Then I used JB weld to join the two pieces. Tried ripping them apart after the JB weld set to make sure the connection was good. THen used bondo to fill in the recessed areas and painted them.

The Emgo filters fit on with a bit of sanding on the new intake and they are attached to the carbs using an old radiator hose I found at the wreckers.

[stevestrom]

I, ve been messing around with the bike, starting it up and running it for a bit (petcocks are still not here). I have been getting quite a bit of smoke from the exhaust, at idle and under throttle. I am having a hard time telling if it is black smoke or white smoke.

The cyliders have been honed and its got new valve seals, the carbs have been triple cleaned, and the floats have been set. I didn't really know what I was doing when I did the bench sync, so that might not be the best job.

The bike starts, idles, and revs fine. I pulled the plugs after running it tonight and cyl#1 is sooty and black, all the rest are fine.

Is this an issue of being rich in #1? I am pretty sure that this cylinder is the origin of the smoke since when I pulled the plug smoke poured out the hole.

Would the idle adjustment fix this since it smokes at idle and under throttle? Or do you think that I F-ed up the bench sync and the mixture is way out for Cyl #1?

I would like to clear this up so that I am not fogging everyone out on the road!

[natemoen]

I would say at this point its more an issue of fresh honed cylinders and unsealed rings. Do not start that engine again till you can take it out and seat the rings on the road with the engine under load. You will end up glazing the cylinders and never getting the rings to seat.

[81xsproject]

If you have freshly honed cylinders and an okay running bike, I will second what nate said and STRONGLY recommend not running it much in the garage. Wait until your parts show up and are installed so that you can properly seat the ring under a load. Once the hone on the cylinder walls is gone, there is no more chance to seat the rings properly which really needs to be done under a load. JM2C. Not to mention that some heavy handed riding may clear up the smoke-screen.

[justme1100]

Air filter mount

I know this a bit after the fact but I just love your air filter mount. I have 4 of those buggers under there and I am going to try what you did. Nice job on the engine by the way. Thanks for sharing.

[stevestrom]

So it sounds like you guys figure that it's oil getting into the combustion chamber through the rings. I thought that the plugs would be wet and black if that was happening, not black and sooty (dry). I also thought that it was wierd since its happening on only one cylinder and I honed all of them.

How long will it take to break in the honed cylinders? Any RPM's recommended?

Thanks

[natemoen]

Depends on who you talk to but I am more in the camp of ride her hard by running the rpms up to about 7 grand and then let it coast down to about 3 grand and just sort of keep doing that about 10 times. Ride it for a bit and leopard the rpms around 5 grand for a bit repeat for about 20 min. The majority of the ring seating is done pretty soon on BUT will continue for 500 + miles.

And I am sure plenty of people will disagree but that's fine. To each their own.

[cywelchjr]

I recall reading somewhere the recommendation for break-in to do several full throttle runs, then park it and let it cool off (on the runs it made a point of saying to use engine braking to slow back down), then repeat a couple of times (I think it said three cycles of this).

It's the pressure of the combustion process that tightens the rings against the cylinder walls and more pressure for a short time seats them quickly. IIRC the reason for using engine braking to slow back down (keeping it in gear) is to pull more oil up onto the cylinder walls to prevent scoring.

Ahh, I found it! Here is the article on engine break in. He doesn't just tell what to do, but explains why it works.

[stevestrom]

I recall reading somewhere the recommendation for break-in to do several full throttle runs, then park it and let it cool off (on the runs it made a point of saying to use engine braking to slow back down), then repeat a couple of times (I think it said three cycles of this).

It's the pressure of the combustion process that tightens the rings against the cylinder walls and more pressure for a short time seats them quickly. IIRC the reason for using engine braking to slow back down (keeping it in gear) is to pull more oil up onto the cylinder walls to prevent scoring.

Ahh, I found it! Here is the article on engine break in. He doesn't just tell what to do, but explains why it works.

Cool, thanks! I actually just finished reading that whole page just before you posted that link! Looks like I'll be going hard on it my first time out. We just moved into this new neighborhood a couple of months ago, I am sure the neighbors are going to love me for this!

I might load it into the truck and take it somewhere out of the way since its not quite street legal yet.

Still not sure why its only smoking from the one cylider though. Seems like a lot of smoke to be just sneaking by the rings.

[stevestrom]

Alright, I have been doing quite a bit of research on this issue of oil getting by the rings. If I am experiencing oil getting by the rings causing the smoke wouldn't I also have to have quite a bit of blow-by getting into the crankcase?

I have a small filter on the crankcase breather since I have no airbox anymore and there is no smoke coming from the crankcase breather while the bike is running.

Does this make any sense?

[crazy steve]

Not necessarily; to get enough blow-by for smoke out the breather, generally all three rings on a piston need to be bad. To get oil into the combustion chamber, only one or two need to not be sealing right.

Another possibility is the 2nd ring is upside down. This is the ring that does the work of removing excess oil off the cylinder wall. Install it wrong, and it'll scrape oil into the combustion chamber.