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Hey guys 5 hours later and I need help please?

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  • #16
    I didn't find taking the caliper apart to be hard, complicated, or difficult at all. That was the easy part of my problem.

    Go to cBug's website and download the manuals if you haven't got them yet. There is a little diagram in there of where everything goes in case you can't remember.

    It was a really simple process, just pull the piston out, spray everything with cleaner and rub with a stiff brush, reassemble and then do your bleeding.

    That being said, update your profile with a location, then someone close might be able to chime in.
    1978 Yamaha XS 1100E "Monster" 2010-2012
    2004 RCM-50GL 2008-2010, Don't ask, don't tell (don't really know)

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    • #17
      I have the same bike. I taped a piece of wood behind the brake lever so i couldn't over pull it. Then took slow full strokes on the handle. I use a bottle with fluid in it, and a hose submerged in it. I squeeze the handle, loosen the bleeder, close the bleeder, and pump a few times, and repeat.It allways works great for me. I think the long slow strokes is what does it. (That's what she said i think).
      1980 XS1100LG Midnight
      1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


      "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

      Here's to a long life and a happy one.
      A quick death and an easy one.
      A pretty girl and an honest one.
      A cold beer and another one!

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      • #18
        Didn't see it mentioned, but get a Mity Vac for $20 at HF.
        2H7 (79) owned since '89
        3H3 owned since '06

        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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        • #19
          Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
          Didn't see it mentioned, but get a Mity Vac for $20 at HF.
          I wish they were that cheap! Try $40...
          Last edited by CatatonicBug; 05-01-2010, 11:57 PM.
          1980 XS850SG - Sold
          1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
          Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
          Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

          Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
          -H. Ford

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          • #20
            Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
            I wish they were that cheap! Try $40...
            $30 at my local autozone. However, if you are having trouble bench bleeding the MC, this isn't going to help at all. It sounds like you know how to bleed, but may be having some problem in the MC that needs fixin'.
            1978 Yamaha XS 1100E "Monster" 2010-2012
            2004 RCM-50GL 2008-2010, Don't ask, don't tell (don't really know)

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            • #21
              Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
              I wish they were that cheap! Try $40...
              They go on sale. Maybe he could try the old oiler can pump trick that someone recently mentioned for a reverse bleed?
              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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              • #22
                Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
                They go on sale. Maybe he could try the old oiler can pump trick that someone recently mentioned for a reverse bleed?
                Tried that too.

                I think I may just need a good cleaning and rebuild. Something is up with the MC.
                1980 XS1100 SG

                When in doubt, knock 'em out!

                I will not argue with idiots. They will only try to drag me down to their level and beat me with experience.

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                • #23
                  OK, did you try teflon tape on the bleeder screw so it doesn't suck air?
                  2H7 (79) owned since '89
                  3H3 owned since '06

                  "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
                    OK, did you try teflon tape on the bleeder screw so it doesn't suck air?
                    no didn't do that but, I have the problem all the way up at the MC its self. Using just my finger at the hose end I can control the air suction.
                    1980 XS1100 SG

                    When in doubt, knock 'em out!

                    I will not argue with idiots. They will only try to drag me down to their level and beat me with experience.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      So, you can remove the brake hose form the end of the MC and pull the lever and get pressure gainst your finger? If not, then put finger over this hole and pump hand lever, pressure will build until you can not hold your finger there any more. At that point, slide your finger off while putting the hose back on without losing the prime on the MC.

                      When I bleed brakes, I take a small can/jar and put some clean brake fluid in it about 1" up than take a hose from the bleeder to the can with a loop above the bleeder for a liquid lock. This way, when you pump air out, it goes out the hose, but the brake fluid will form that liquid lock and you will not suck air back into the system.
                      Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                      When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                      81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                      80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                      Previously owned
                      93 GSX600F
                      80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                      81 XS1100 Special
                      81 CB750 C
                      80 CB750 C
                      78 XS750

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                      • #26
                        You said you haven't disassembled the master right?
                        Well you need to do that to clean the master thoroughly.As has been stated those four holes at the end of the piston that have the little reed type valve
                        over them need to be cleaned out.
                        Also if the master hasn't been all the way
                        disassembled there is probably jelled up brake fluid gunk in there too.
                        Another thing, the spooge hole may still be plugged.Were you able to get the plastic reservoir off the master cylinder?Under there is where the spooge hole is.
                        80 SG XS1100
                        14 Victory Cross Country

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by tarzan View Post
                          You said you haven't disassembled the master right?
                          Well you need to do that to clean the master thoroughly.As has been stated those four holes at the end of the piston that have the little reed type valve
                          over them need to be cleaned out.
                          Also if the master hasn't been all the way
                          disassembled there is probably jelled up brake fluid gunk in there too.
                          Another thing, the spooge hole may still be plugged.Were you able to get the plastic reservoir off the master cylinder?Under there is where the spooge hole is.
                          Dang.......your either up early.....or late Rick!

                          What is it....4:00 AM there?

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                          • #28
                            Bleeding brakes

                            Originally posted by Suckerpunch View Post
                            No joke I spent 5 hours trying to prime my front master brake cylinder. I just did it a few days ago and after a few pumps of the hand brake, I was able to bleed the calipers. Now I pump and Pump and pump and so on, NOTHING.

                            The oil level stays the same. If I place my finger on the bleeder I can feel a push pull pulsation. What should I do?

                            Please chime in...
                            Use vacuume to pull brake fluid to bleeder.Use old fuel line ect. slide over bleeder use a hypodermic needle like one used to measure animal medication,slide other end of fuel line over hype without needle of coarse and pull handle up on hype. Vacuume pulls fliud though entire system.
                            Last edited by nemesis71; 05-02-2010, 08:52 AM.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by nemesis71 View Post
                              Use vacuume to pull brake fluid to bleeder.Use old fuel line ect. slide over bleeder use a hypodermic needle like one used to measure animal medication,slide other end of fuel line over hype without needle of coarse and pull handle up on hype. Vacuume pulls fliud though entire system.
                              Do I need to pump the brake handle while doing this?
                              1980 XS1100 SG

                              When in doubt, knock 'em out!

                              I will not argue with idiots. They will only try to drag me down to their level and beat me with experience.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                No, the fluid will be pulled through the system. You DO need a CLEAN master cyl, though. I ALWAYS bench bleed the master before I put it back on a vehicle. This applies to ALL types of vehicles, cars, bikes, etc.
                                Keep a CLOSE eye on the fluid level if you use a vacuum tool. you will be amazed at how fast the fluid level will drop.
                                Ray Matteis
                                KE6NHG
                                XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                                XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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