Rear Wheel Removal

[Lloydo]

I just read TopCats pictorial on rear wheel removal, the day AFTER I removed the wheel! Could have put some of his tips to use, but all in all it went ok. I did have a question though, my axle was a LOT harder to remove than it sounds like it should have been. It took a carefully placed punch, & a 3# sledge hammer to drive it out. There seems to be a buildup of rust alond the entire length, although it wasn't "dry", there seemed to be a light greasy film. I was thinking a fine steel wool, & thougough re-greasing before I re-install. Does that sound right?

[jimbyjimb]

Use whatever you can to get the rust off without scratching up the axle surface too much. Fine emery cloth would be good also. I use it to polish cranks if I'm not having them ground. I also used high-temp wheel bearing grease on my axle when re-installing and put some on the teeth for the gear drive. Though other more experienced XSr's may have better advice.

[TopCatGr58]

Timing is everything!

Hey Lloydo,

Sorry about that! IF I didn't say so in the tech tip, I'll add it, but yes, I put some bearing grease on the axle shaft as well before putting it back in! Mine also had some mild rust, used emory cloth or such to remove it.

T.C.

[DGXSER]

I had the same thing with my project bike. Any of them that sit around for a while will have this issue.

I would take a rag and rub it down as smooth as it gets, clean it up with someacetone or something similar, then coat it with grease. I have a can of high speed bearing grease I use on all such items.

[skids]

While you have the wheel off, remove all of the crusty grease from the spider gear and regrease it also. And... you might want to remove the drive shaft to grase the splines at the final drive because the grease zerk does not do a good job.

[Lloydo]

Re-Install

I knew this would happen, too long since I took it apart, & I didn't take pics! Just wanted to double check the order the bolt goes through, from right to left, ( from behind ):
right swingarm
caliper bracket
caliper itself
collar (spacer?)
wheel
final drive
left swingarm

Correct? The clymer manual I have has what looks like a spcer between the right swingarm & the caliper bracket, in addition to the collar that goes into the disc/rotor. Topcats pictorial shows only the collar as a spacer, & does say the "special" spacer. Just wanted to be sure I didn't lose an extra spacer. BTW, I did go over the axle with some 400 sandpaper & re greased it, slid all the way through by hand!

[Lloydo]

Re-Install

Sorry, forgot......at the end is a washer & then the nut.

[mack]

spacer

If it's a special, the spacer is already attached to the caliper torque plate.

[Lloydo]

Thanks, that's what I thought, just wanted to be sure!

[SFerinTEXAS]

Also maybe use a small screw driver to wedge open the gap where the pinch bolt does. Might help or not. took my brake lever off and had to do that .Just a tiny bit helped.

[Stralya]

Well mine must be welded in. I've loosened the pinch bolt and flogged the living shinola out of it with a five pound lump hammer and it wont budge. Any clues?

Dan.

[WSL91]

Drive a screw driver in the wedge slot and open it up. Insert a big phillips screwdriver in the hole on the end of the axle and start rotating. Once the axle rotates reasonably it will pull out.

[DiverRay]

You can also heat up the AXLE from the nut side with a propane torch, and then hit it with penetrating oil. The cooling should allow the oil to get into the axle a way's. Don't forget to heat around the brake side, but be careful! The end of the axle you pull on has plastic inside of it, and that may melt and burn if you go too heavy with the heat.
Most of the rust IS between the wheel and swingarm on the BRAKE side, so plenty of oil in that area.

[Stralya]

Thanks gang. I'm going to try vice grips and patience. I don't have a propane torch and I can't see anywhere where I might use a large phillips screwdriver.

[Mr.Bill]

oops thought I had a good pic of the set up but nope