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  • I broke the carb

    I was removing the float bowls for a quick inspection of a rack of carbs off of a XJ1100 prior to selling it and found the floats stuck and not pivoting on their pivot. Started taping a light punch to knock the pin out and the blasted Float pivot riser snapped right off. RATS!!
    Not much else to do, I don't suppose, but thought I'd at least share my tale of woe. Unless someone has a spare carb body or two lying around.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Lunatic View Post
    I was removing the float bowls for a quick inspection of a rack of carbs off of a XJ1100 prior to selling it and found the floats stuck and not pivoting on their pivot. Started taping a light punch to knock the pin out and the blasted Float pivot riser snapped right off. RATS!!
    Not much else to do, I don't suppose, but thought I'd at least share my tale of woe. Unless someone has a spare carb body or two lying around.
    BTBT

    Comment


    • #3
      Do a search on "float post" and you will find some different things guys have done for repairs. I am in the process of fixing one I broke the other day myself. Tech steel has a product I am trying as it says it is impervious to gasoline. I was suprised at how little it took to break.
      2-79 XS1100 SF
      2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
      80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
      Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

      Comment


      • #4
        Is it the left or right post when carb is on the bike? Did just the tip of the post break off or a lot more than that? Which carb is it?
        79 F full cruiser, stainless brake lines, spade fuses, Accel coils, modded air box w/larger velocity stacks, 750 FD.
        79 SF parts bike.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yep, Lee... those things are VERY fragile!!

          It will happen before ya know it, even if you're being careful sometimes!

          If you still have the broken piece, they are repairable though.

          Cody demonstrated a good technique once to me when we were working on mine...
          pliers to squeeze between the post & the end of the pin.

          Once it slides flush, then you usually can grab it from the other side & slide it out... but you've got to be sooo careful about applying any side pressure to the post, or it will snap.

          Sorry to hear this happened to ya, and hope you hung on to the broken post!

          If so, you can fix it.
          '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

          '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

          2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

          In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
          "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Lunatic View Post
            I was removing the float bowls for a quick inspection of a rack of carbs off of a XJ1100 prior to selling it and found the floats stuck and not pivoting on their pivot. Started taping a light punch to knock the pin out and the blasted Float pivot riser snapped right off. RATS!!
            Not much else to do, I don't suppose, but thought I'd at least share my tale of woe. Unless someone has a spare carb body or two lying around.
            Hi Lunatic,
            as already been posted, there's ways to fix those posts.
            Here's a way to get those pins out without busting the posts off.
            IMHO this works better than using sidecutting pliers under the pin's head.
            Put a spring-loaded centerpunch onto the pin's tail and push.
            Push, click! And the pin moves.
            Fred Hill, S'toon
            XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
            "The Flying Pumpkin"

            Comment


            • #7
              Fred, the centerpunch method will also snap posts. The sidecutter is the safest method, no pressure on the post.

              Comment


              • #8
                spring loaded centerpunch

                I have to agree with Fred,,,after numerous tries with side cutters, punches, drills, every imaginable tool that could work, the only one that repeatedly WORKS is the spring loaded centerpunch. Got mine at Harbor Frieght around 4.00. Best four bucks ever spent. I do hold the posts with pressure with fingers from one hand and use the other for the spring loaded center punch. BY holding the posts ridgidly, it probably helps the shock of the pin go directly to the pin and not the posts. A squirt of penetrating oil before helps also. After breaking a few,,,,not a single one has broken with the spring loaded punch. I hold it directly and slight pressure on the pin, hold the posts with the other hand and voila,,,they all pop out. THe tight ones sometimes take a couple of times but they all pop out. No negative on the sidecutters but I found that a lot of the pins cannot be grabbed with these, the heads are either to rounded or too tight to the post........Spring loaded center punches save the day....Good Luck, Mike in Sun Diego
                mike
                1982 xj1100 maxim
                1981 venture bagger
                1999 Kawi Nomad 1500 greenie
                1959 wife

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by randy View Post
                  Fred, the centerpunch method will also snap posts. The sidecutter is the safest method, no pressure on the post.
                  Hi Randy,
                  NOT the simple tool you whack with a hammer but one of these things:-
                  http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index....OD&ProdID=3880
                  An automatic centerpunch transfers kinetic energy directly to the tail of the pin without involving the pivot post.
                  The sidecutter's blades use a wedging action between the head of the pin and the pivot post that pushes the post one way as it pushes the pin the other way.
                  Fred Hill, S'toon
                  XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                  "The Flying Pumpkin"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My vote is for the side cutters,

                    Unless you want to seperate the carb bank, that is by far the best method. The center punch applies the same force type and direction of inpact as a hammer. Also the center punch can "peen" or mushroom the pin so you will have to drill it out. If you take a pair of cheap dykes "side cutters) and grind the face down flush to the cutting edge you will be very happy with the results.
                    '81 1100 MNS - "Midnight XSpress"
                    Original except:
                    120 mains outer cylinders - 125 mains inner cylinders - Ceramic headers - Powder coated pipes, covers calipers, and MC's
                    4 pods - Air box gutted--E3 Plugs - High Back seat - Grooved out swing arm - SS brake lines
                    Fork brace - 160 speedo - Auto CCT
                    All gold paint and chrome replaced with GOLD plate

                    "STUPID is Forever" Ron White.
                    Contact me by PM -I don't deal with stupid anymore.

                    Big John

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      the centerpunch method will also snap posts. The sidecutter is the safest method, no pressure on the post.
                      Actually the "float pin removal tool" made by Randy is the easiest and best way (IMHO) remove pins.

                      BUT, should you happen to have a broken post......





                      I FUBARED the original post so I made a new one out of some aluminum stock I had laying around.



                      New post is held with a 3/4 inch long allen screw.
                      I was refered to this repair by the UK site.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        BTW, ment KEN

                        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/Dscf1894.jpg

                        mro

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Uh Yeah, I know it's not anyone here but,

                          One of my carbs had that done to it. I would have severely hurt the A$$ole if I had of known who did it. If you are fixing it for yourself --that's one thing- but to halfA$ do it then sell the bike to someone else<just ain't right. Anywho, it could be done well but would take time and a good machinist or you would be looking at a stuck float and gas flood (maybe a ruined engine). Don't ask me how I know. What I don't understand is why are the pins not a slip fit. Virtually all other carbs I have dealt with had slip fit hardened pins that stay put because of proximity to the bowl. Next time I tear mine apart that is going to be a modification.
                          '81 1100 MNS - "Midnight XSpress"
                          Original except:
                          120 mains outer cylinders - 125 mains inner cylinders - Ceramic headers - Powder coated pipes, covers calipers, and MC's
                          4 pods - Air box gutted--E3 Plugs - High Back seat - Grooved out swing arm - SS brake lines
                          Fork brace - 160 speedo - Auto CCT
                          All gold paint and chrome replaced with GOLD plate

                          "STUPID is Forever" Ron White.
                          Contact me by PM -I don't deal with stupid anymore.

                          Big John

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            One of my carbs had that done to it.
                            No excuse for the guy to not check and test his repair.
                            Also if your not good with your hands or an accomplished tinkerer I would not recommend trying it.

                            The pins can be "sanded down" a little so they are not so tight.
                            Note the "little" part

                            mro

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              the score

                              it snapped abot hald way up, So, after I'm caught up a bit aroudn the garage, I'll mount the rack in the vertical mill and mill the stuff flat, and see about dong a proper repair job to the riser.
                              I have a full machine shop in my garage, so that should be do-able. I just dont' weld, thats all. The fellwo that needed the rack though, he obviosly isn't interested anymore. The fellow still needs a rack of carbs so if anyone has a set, post them on the swap page, he'll probably nab them.
                              OR if someone just wnats this rack, in their present condition and will perform the repair themselves, thats fine also.
                              I'll make a note tomorrow night and see which carb body it is exactly. Maybe someone has a spare body around I can swap into the rack.

                              Comment

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