180 hardtail planning

[selfmade]

Mathh,
can you let the cat out about how much you added to the shaft to get everything in alignment? Also what thickness spacer did you make? Do i add 30mm or 25mm or.... I ask as the fj wheel will be a little difficult to come by and would like to at least have the shaft and MD spacers up and running.

This is nice. The post seems to be growing and getting some info out there.

[selfmade]

Also any and all detail on you rear. What tire is used, what rim with year, Final drive, drive shaft, and mounting to the middle drive alterations. I know it is a lot to ask of you and chop for the wheel info but i just want to be versed well enough to make the best decision on what avenue to take.

[Mathh]

Also any and all detail on you rear. What tire is used, what rim with year, Final drive, drive shaft, and mounting to the middle drive alterations. I know it is a lot to ask of you and chop for the wheel info but i just want to be versed well enough to make the best decision on what avenue to take.

hi selfmade..
Spacer is 30mm thick. I measured centre of shaft to outside of pivot point (chrome cover removed) = 66mm. I removed most of the inner side of the pivot..... Rear tire is a Metzeler ME880 marathon 210/50zr17. Rim is 6.0x17 from BBS, wheel center is Wiwo (both originally for a GSXR1100 and both no longer made). The wheel center has been modified to accept the XS1100 toothed drive.
Final drive and shaft are FJR1300 connected to the stock XS1100 U-joint. Just slots in.

[selfmade]

Mathh,

what was the process for modifying the rim for the tooth drive? I see in the exploded view of the 11 that there are oilseals and such going through the rim. Do you see a way to make that same modification to say an r1 rim as mentioned earlier? did you have any problem mating the fj final drive to the 11? any cutting or grinding.

[Mathh]

I think the rubber seals 4 and 5 are for protecting the wheelbearings against water intrusion. I did not use them.
As for the r1 wheel, I think you can leave it intact. Just take the XS toothed drive (clutch hub #6) out of the stock wheel, press out the pins (bolts #7) that fall in the 6 stock XS rubber wheel mounts. Look for a clean way to match this XS toothed drive to the standard R1 sprocket carrier, ideal would be to use the standard sprocket bolts to mount the drive. That way you can use the standard r1 cush drive. The finished product should not be too wide, regarding lining up the wheels but also important the looks: a big gap between drive and wheel does not look nice. It would be perfect if you could use the XS plastic cover on the left side (dust plate cover#16) between the carrier and the wheel, or make a one off yourself.
Using the FJR1300 drive and shaft involved no work at all. The FJR shaft just slides in the XS U-joint. Just bear in mind that the FJR drive is phisically longer than the XS final drive, it cannot be mounted on the standard XS swingarm (the axle holes will not line up).
You could of course stick to the XS final drive (although much more massiv) and shaft (shorter than the FJR's)....

[selfmade]

So there is no oil or lube contained in the final drive housing? The final drive just needs the grease on the splines???


I need to give a big thanks to mathh, xschop, and brian D for all their help and contributions in and about this post. I have started to make the sub plates for the fixture table to mount the xs frame to. This will give me the stock motor mount positions to build/modify the frame.

[Mathh]

the final drive housing is filled with oil yes , but the housing itself is perfectly sealed. Plus you have to grease the splines as well. Not sure what you mean by the oilseals going through the rim??

[selfmade]

I guess I am misunderstanding the oil route. The oil never comes in contact with the clutch hub? The way i first understood it was the oil filled the whole final drive assembly including the clutch hub. Now I a m beginning to think it is only contained in the bike side of the final drive and does not come in contact with the clutch hub. I think that because if you did not use all the oilseals like #4&5 on the exploded view, you would have a sever leak.

[bigray03]

pics??

when do we get to see pictures of this work in progress???

[Mathh]

I guess I am misunderstanding the oil route. The oil never comes in contact with the clutch hub? The way i first understood it was the oil filled the whole final drive assembly including the clutch hub. Now I a m beginning to think it is only contained in the bike side of the final drive and does not come in contact with the clutch hub. I think that because if you did not use all the oilseals like #4&5 on the exploded view, you would have a sever leak.

yup, and you were never able to remove your rear wheel without an oil leak..
...that would not be good

[selfmade]

Ok so there is oil but only in the swingarm side. So pretty much just throw any rim in the rear with an adapter for the clutch hub, and extend the middle gear shaft and drive shaft to fit. Also throw a spacer in between the middle gear and trans and we are off to the races.

Also thank you mathh for the parts links above.

[selfmade]

bigray,

pictures are being sent to 2-3 members for approval before i post them. I will however post pics of my jigs now and the new one i will build for this bike. It should be nice seeing as I will use only common shop tools to build the jig.

I have decided on the 250 with a venom rear. Other than the rim/tire I will be using all the brake, drive shaft and middle gear components. I have sourced a shop to make a lengthened drive shaft and middle gear shaft. Both will be hardened to factory specs and drop right in. After I have mine in hand and assured of proper fit I will post the contact info. Another change in plans will be a full frame build instead of the hardtail section.

Axle to axle measurement 77.5"
32* rake neck but 40* total using raked trees and extended forks by frank

[fredintoon]

Another change in plans will be a full frame build instead of the hardtail section.

Hi Selfmade,
a full frame is a good thought. Despite the undoubted elegance of a custom hardtail I suspect you will find that the best place to ride it is to your chiropractor. And if you have carefully saved the stock frame you can put the motor back in it.

[selfmade]

i have airride systems that i use under the seats in most of my hardtail apps. No problems as of yet. The stock frame will be here in case.

I have been riding hardtails for the last 14 years...no problems

[bigray03]

Approval???

Well I'm looking forward to deeing them. Sounds like it'll be pretty nice.