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Great! Now, where does a person buy the cap depression tool to change them? My local Yamaha dealer looks at me funny when I ask for stuff for this old bike. CZ
As for the cap depression tool, it's actually a bucket holding tool and you use the cam to depress the valve, then install the tool, back rotate the cam slightly and pull the shim.
It's easier to loosen the cam cap nuts to raise the whole cam so you can get the shim(s) out.
Do all your measurements first so you know which shim(s) need to be changed. End up with the "C" mark lined up on the timing plate. Loosen the cam adjuster lockbolt. Then loosen one cam at a time to get to the shims. When you're done, relock the adjuster. Rotate twice to seat the new shim(s) and re-check the clearances on the ones you changed.
OK, I am new but, used shims are not the same thicness as new due to use and all books say to discard? Am I wrong? Should we keep used shims?
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
Great! Now, where does a person buy the cap depression tool to change them? My local Yamaha dealer looks at me funny when I ask for stuff for this old bike. CZ
You can get the tool on ebay for about $15.00
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
Actually, the official Yamaha tool is good, but this is a bad copy, put out by Motion Pro... hence the M.P. stamped on it. The prong at the end is too short to really hold the bucket down, and the base is too thick to allow it to seat deeper into the valve area to do some good. People have tried to modify this tool, but with limited success.
(We raffled one of those off a few years ago as a "gag gift")
What does work is the Kawasaki valve tool.... the "W" shaped one. It's a bit of a pain, but it'll hold the bucket down nicely if you can keep it from slipping off.
But, truthfully...as mentioned above, it's often quicker and less aggravating to just pull the caps and lift up the cam.
Small hint: Clean the oil off the cam gear and place a small mark of fingernail polish on the gear and where it contacts the cam chain. If the cam chain jumps a tooth while you're messing around in there with the cam... you'll quickly notice it.
"Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
Please referance page 44 in the Clymer's guild, looks just like the tool I recomended. Works fine for for me but I was fixing motors from 38 years ago and might have some some special skills, but mine seems easy to use. Sure there is better quality at more $ but follow the "Clymer" steps and no chance of skipping a tooth on the cam and needing a new motor
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
You may have misunderstood me.
I have both tools: The actual Yamaha one and the Motion Pro clone. One works, the other does not.
Most of people on this site don't have years of mechanical experience. For a lot of them, this is their first bike and first time doing mechanical maints. We try to explain things in simple terms and throw in whatever tips we can.
"Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
I see. You are right, I would not recomend anyone try valve work or marking timming chain position without very much knowledge and skill or they will have a parts bike when they try to start it.
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
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