chaindrive - 25 pics.

[xschop]

i agree

I have a solid DOGBONE on mine

[audijunky]

solid?

Do you have one or two? I have two dogbones going from the lower part of the "triangle"bracket. The other ends of my dogbones came with a long cylindrical bushing and a bolt that goes through them and the bushing. I found a peice of pipe that the bushing fits perfectly in. I cut it shorter than the bushing, drilled holes into 2 pieces of sheet steel(pieces are about 2"x4") the same size as the hole in the pipe. Than with the bushing in the pipe to align the sheet steel holes with the pipes ends I welded the sheet pieces to the pipe. kind of looks like this H without the bottom legs of the H and the middle part is the pipe. But before that I drilled 1" holes on the other end of the sheet steel pieces and cut them so they kind of hook around the 1" lower frame tube. I have "hooked" them on the tube and taken the weight off the center stand to see what it will look like when riding and check for clearance issue. SWEEEET @LOW the way I like it!! SO now all I have to do is get it setting the way I want and weld the sheet steel to the lower frame tube and that should be that. Said I wouldn't try to explain but I couldnt wait for the pics. I am sure I just confused the SH-T out of any one attempting to read this. SORRY

[xschop]

one solid bone

just one...look at the pics...

[audijunky]

huh huh hu huhuhuhhuhuh you said solid BONE

[audijunky]

Allright fellas, didnt get it all put together yet, got a little distracted with the NCAA tourney this weekend but did get some photos and a little done here ya go
This is the front bracket to connect the dogbones to the frame for the monoshock


This is the upper mount for the monoshock in frame and also the angle iron welded it for battery support


swingarm and rear shock

this is the lower connection point mounted and welded


And thats all for now folks
I do have a question though. I have tapped a hole in the end of the swingarms for an axle adjustment bolt, (you turn it out to push the axle back) Do you guys think a 1/4 20 bolt is strong enough to not bend under load?

[xschop]

???

have to see a pic... but your mount looks xselnt. what thickness iron did you use 4 the top shock mount?

[Pat Kelly]

I got this off the XS triples site. Here's a chopped triple in an 1100 (modified) frame. Check out the driveshaft.
I hope this link works:

http://www.yamaha-triples.org/forums...posts=8#M35912

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Steve/Audi,

That swingarm looks massively strong!! Shouldn't experience any flexing there!! So, you made that from scratch? Talking about the axle adjuster bolts, there shouldn't be much load on them ONCE you tighten the axle nuts? From what I've seen on 650's and can remember from older chain drive bikes I've had, the adjuster bolts merely allow precise positioning of the axle, but once it's in position, the axle nuts are tightened, which carry most of the load/stress for keeping the axle in position! Unless my chain drive ignorance is showing?

But I think 1/4" might be a tad small, vs. 5/16" or even 3/8".
T.C.

[pggg]

6mm adjusters are fine, like TC said all the load is locked via bearings, spacers and axle, BIG torque setting on the axle nut, hard job draggin' you reluctant guys kickin' and screamin' into the easy modern metric age huh?

[Mathh]

Wow!

That looks excellent!

[audijunky]

hey Guys thanks for the complments. chop, the top shock mount is made from 1/8 inch thick angle iron, and the mounting plates welded on are also 1/8 " I think. I think with the 1/4 20 axle adjusters I will use two or three nuts for added rigidity. I think that should do it.
If you look at the top shock mount ( the rear view) you can see a little peice of sheet I welded to the side of it to mount the fuse block to keep it in the same location. I am especially pproud of that. I really didnt want to have to move to much of the electronics. I think Ill beable to fit the TCI under the seat pan, now that the rear tire is pushed away from the seat. Only thing I should have to manipulate(lengthen) will be the battery cables and the rear taillight wires. I am going to try to make a rear fender from fiberglass, get to hug the tire and mold my existing rear taillight into it . Should look pretty bada-- when I am done.

Torque setting My wheel says 50 foot lbs.Is that enough? Sorry Pggg dont know how to convert that to metric

[audijunky]

Hey TC
yep entirely from scratch. Some donated metal from the father in law, got the swingarm rectangle tubing and 3/8 thick angle iron from Fastenal. Got the front tube swingarm pivot tubes from onlinemetals.com and metaldepot.com. reused pivot point bearings. Had to get the pivot tubes machined out a lttle for the bearings. I say tubes cause there is another tube inside the pivot tube to help keep bearings in place and added strength. I tacked together most of the swingarm with a mig welder, and got it completely welded with stick. It is kind of messy right now, but should clean up decent.

[xschop]

lookin good

that top piece of angle iron should be pretty hefty to take the force at that spot.... but it looks like you have enough support there. your shock must be set back further than mine...chop

[audijunky]

either that or I have mine on less of an angle?

[xschop]

yep

your s/a must be further back...but everything looks good. I weigh 215 lbs so i went overkill...