chaindrive - 25 pics.

[audijunky]

about the top angle iron, I could weld some 1" tubing in above the angle iron connecting the side frame rails. That would definetly be strong enough then. I think I am just gonna keep an eye on it , and if it starts to bend than I ll do the above mentioned fix. Gotta try and keep it as light as possble

[audijunky]

I'm sittin at about 190

[pggg]

This is gonna be one classy handcrafted machine, I'd like to just say 'don't rush it, take ya time, be dead accurate on everything, Auds, yep foot lbs is still the easiest measurement, as is PSI and MPH...

[audijunky]

I dont know about classy, but ti will definetly be unique

[audijunky]

Hey Chop

Hows your ride coming along? You get that front sprocket mount/unit built?

[xschop]

drive unit

drive unit is waiting on some 1 1/2 in. thick material for the outboard bearing. I have two different ways of making the drive unit. I am making sure I get the 2nd version right because I plan on doing more of these when people send the whole drive unit to me....probly be a 2-3 wk lead time for me to convert it.....

[audijunky]

So for your conversion kit you are using more from the existing unit than just the splined shaft?

[xschop]

yes

yes, I am doing it this way to save on alot of time and some material. the outboard bearing will be them same bearing used inboard....

[xschop]

mounts

I am putting the solid motor mounts in the rear only on this project....just to keep the chain/sprocket tight....i would suggest doing it to your setup to keep the vibes away from your outboard bearing...jat

[audijunky]

If you want to know, I know a website that sells both types of our existing bearings except of course they are sealed.
Pretty cheap too, Ah hell Ill just post the link

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

[audijunky]

Dont you have to get the splined shaft machined so you can use the same size bearings? Just seems like it would be cheaper to get a sealed bearing the same size as the original than get machine work done? Plus you got to buy sealed bearings anyway? Or does your new setup allow you to use the open type?

[xschop]

no confusion

I will be using sealed bearings same size as stock.. I asked pggg about this a few weeks back. I will check that link for price, thanks... just got a call to pickup my 1.5 inch aluminum plate.....chop

[pggg]

Regarding vibration to the outer bearing, the rubber engine mounts are likely a good shock absorber between chain and front sprocket, I think if mounted solid, the vibes will be pretty much the same, either way doubt it'll make any real difference, the big plus for solid mounts is stiffening the handling, hopefully no extra buzzing to the pegs and bars, someone once mentioned nylon type mounts, could be a good compromise, just a matter of choosing which to use, now the VERY WORST thing ya can do is run the chain too tight. That'll deal to bearings quick smart! A loose chain is waaay better than a tight chain.

[audijunky]

Chain tension?

What tension would you recommend? I read somewhere that you want to beable to move it up and down directly between both sprockets about 1/2" or 14mm? How does that sound?

[xschop]

yeah

yeah, what's the deal on that chain adjustment. The bike I am working on will have solid mounts only near the front sprocket (and keep rubber in the other 4 up front to have best of both worlds). I just sold an extra (6ea) full set to a member. I did some research on some diff swingarms and looks like pggg's rear zxr wheel is ideal for my bolt on chain drive...I will have to research a swingarm that needs little if no modification for the swap.... I am waiting on a couple of replies from the bay on the lines of 91-99 cb750 s/a's ....again the key is a 11.5" pivot and 17mm mounting bolt...>17" trailing length would be icing on the cake......any suggestions PGGG?