chaindrive - 25 pics.

[pggg]

Audi yeah 1 & 2 & 3 are the only rods that'll clear the chain, the dotted holes on the drive unit still bolt thru to the engine though

[audijunky]

Thank you sir

[audijunky]

Hey Pggg,
you out there? I was wondering what year and model you performed this mod to? I have cut a middle gear unit, installed all the spacers and bearings and I dont hve enough clearance for the chain on the outer edge front sprocket? the only way I get enough clearance is if I remove the outer cut piece of the middle gear and just use the bearing cup and the outer chrome peice. I probably left a mm or two more than you on the outer piece but it needed way more than that for the chain to beable to ride on the sprocket. I was wondering if all the midle gear units are the same.
In the picture below is the outer bearing fully seated on the shaft? I am going to attempt to use your photo to show you the problem Here goes the blue area is where I am lacking clearance. the pink line is where I cut the inner piece. Any ideas?

[pggg]

Hi Audi, bit behind the latest at the moment, just saw your question, will be with you soon on that one.

[pggg]

Well this dotted line is where I have the sprocket sitting against. The dotted line is where I got 3mm machined off the grooves to move the sprocket 3mm over to the right hand side. The spacers I placed between the outer bearing and the left side of the sprocket, the other pic shows the distance in mm's (approx) when bolted up. Heaps of clearance for the sprocket/chain. ??

[audijunky]

Ahh I see, I am going with a bigger tire in the rear and actually have to move the sprocket to the left. Do you think it will be an issue just using the bearing cup for the outer bearing and not the outer half of the middle gear housing? I actually have it installed this way now and used nuts to hold the plate, bearing cup and chrome cap all together. seems pretty rigid.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Steve,

I just reviewed the fiche for the middle gear, and I don't think I'd trust the 3 securing bracket holes of the bearing cup alone to support it! I would think you would at least want to cut the housing out at least as deep as the width of the bearing cup, cause the casing provides the extra support for the entire cup instead of just the 3 mounting/securing holes!
T.C.

[pggg]

Mmm TC, I'm assuming Auds is going to bolt that bearing cup solidly to some type of steel plate to rig it, but Auds, the front sprocket position on the shaft on mine is dead inline with with my rear sprocket - which sits 112mm out from centreline on the Kawasaki wheel(41/2 inch rim, 160 wide tyre) So I'm assuming you're looking at a back wheel with a wider sprocket to centreline distance than my example. Means you'll most probably need to modify/move a point on the rear frame outwards like Chop has done. (for clearance with a wide O-ring 530 chain) I got away with just skimming a few mm's off that frame area with an angle grinder. You could probably figure mathematically where to position the front sprocket based on your rear wheel sprocket to c/l distance, or else bolt up the back wheel and use one of those lazer level gadgets.

[audijunky]

Ok here goes, I have basically copied Pggg's front sprocket setup except for using the outer cut portion of the middle gear housing. I am using the bearing cup, outer chrome cover and a piece of sheet steel really similiar to the one in Pgggs photos above. Only difference is I am using nuts to hold it all together instead of the threaded holes on the cut outer housing. I am doing this because I have to space my sprocket out further than Pggg cause I have a 5.5" rim and a 200 rear tire. I dont have my measurements in front of me but my centerline to rear sprocket is wider tha Pggg's. Hey Pggg did you use any longer bolts on any of the other mounting holes for the plate except for the three with the sleeves. (see four posts above) I dont have a chain yet so dont know how thick they are, but it looks like I may be able to get another long bolt(all thread) in front of #1 bolt in your pic. Just curious, I dont think it would hurt to have as much support as possible. If I have the clearance, I plan on putting a nut on both sides of the plate and not use tubing. Did I explain that allright?
PS thanks for all of your help guys

[audijunky]

Hey Pggg, you wouldnt happen to know off hand how far the 530 chain over hangs the edge of the sprockets would ya?

[pggg]

Auds, 1, 2, & 3 are the only long bolts with chain clearance, even the high tensile 8.8 grade threaded rod flexes more than the solid allen head bolts, and the allen head bolts combined with steel sleeves are even more robust. You're lookin at 25mm width of an O-ring 530, the 530 sprockets are 9mm width

[pggg]

P.S. chain sits 3.5mm above the teeth when sitting on the sprocket

[pggg]

Few other things like this ring hacksawed off flush, trimmed smooth, sits against the outside bearing, locked tight.

[audijunky]

Hey Pggg
I have never seen a 530 chain but that seems awfully big. 2.5 cm? And can you explain your last post, I am a tard and dont understand why you would cut that off? Seems like it would sit flush against the bearing with the ring still on?

[pggg]

Cut that ring off and ya don't need to machine/mill a large perfect diameter circle in the support plate to slide that ring thru. Only need to roughly hack out a smaller hole (hidden) to clear the lock-nut inside. Just sit the cut-off ring under the plate instead, there's thin metal shims in there to use for a tight fit, yeah the chain's basically an inch wide