Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[puskrat]

Mine are on short bkts on fairing mount. Ive removed said fairing with the intent of leaving it off. On Stds with no fairing, how were horns mounted. Am I closing in on the "f" word? I really didnt want to make something

[motoman]

On short brackets located on fairing mount.

[puskrat]

Okay next sub-project:

Fairing is off, bracket remains. Horns are mounted to fairing bracket. Other photos I see on site have horns otherwise secured. So far the exploded views I've found show only electrical connects for horns, no fasteners. How were the horns originally mounted on the Standards?

[puskrat]

And I hate Illannoy. Autumn is a ho

[MaximPhil]

apparently I like shopping more than wrenching.

Hi Puskrat,
and I like riding more than either shopping or wrenching
Phil

[puskrat]

Current status: at work, at my desk, several yards from my Dora Max, very close to the same distance from my car, which contains a shipping box containing two new fuel valves and the same number of adapter plates to make them fit, and another package with amber turn signal adorned mirrors. apparently I like shopping more than wrenching.

[puskrat]

Thanks Cat. I'd gotten the impression the bigbore kits were approaching obsolescence, but wasnt sure. Probably a good project for me to not tackle anyway LOL.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Again,

I bought my kit from WISECO, paid over $500.00 for it in ~2000...had Forged pistons, plus the rings, wristpins, head gasket, all of the basic parts needed for a top end rebuild aside from finding a machine shop to do the boring/matching to the pistons...last check was about $40.00 hole, may be more now?? I didn't touch the bottom end at all, just put the new pistons onto the OEM piston rods. The bike/engine only had about 50Kmiles on it and had not displayed any hint of problems, and I didn't want to split the cases, so I just put them in. Have put over 25K miles since then, still running strong.

ViperRon installed the Japanese Cast big bore kit, same parts as mine, wristpins, rings, head gasket, but only $150.00 for the whole kit. Has been working just fine for him as well over the past 2 years. They don't really provide much in the way of HP boost, more for just being able to keep an engine going when the pistons/rings wear out!

The only problem I had was ignorance in handling the head and valves ending up bending a few before realizing couldn't have both cams in at same time and rotate one without hitting other valves sticking out!

Recently we tried to find them on eBay, and they weren't there anymore, but it was because they had sold out of all of the kits they had made. Another member had a link to the eBay listing, and the company/person selling them, will need to a search for it??

T.C.

[puskrat]

But since you brought up the displacement kits (after all, there is no replacement), who made those things, where were they purchased, and how nightmarish was the installation? Are any still available and what effect did they have or problems did they create?

[puskrat]

There'll be no picking. We're all going to get along or I'll just stop this thread and hijack someone else's.

[motoman]

Appreciate the better detailed explanation T.C. Know I can either count on you, or Greg(BA80) to get my short, sometimes confusing explanations better squared away for the occassionable less knowing......it's all good. Besides, Greg likes the opportunity to pick on me anyways....any chance he gets.

[TopCatGr58]

Point, Counterpoint

Hey Puskrat,

I've had my bike since it was new in '83, rode it for 9 years with OEM box, but put on 4-1 pipes just a couple of years after getting it back to the states from Japan where I was stationed. Never rejetted it, ran just fine with the stock airbox and 4-1 pipes. Then tranny broke, sat 9 years, finally got rebuilt in 2000 and installed Pods along with a 1179 big bore kit. Rejetted the mains 3 sizes up. The original Pods were the spongy cylindrical type, no restrictive mounting lip on them. The intake boots/manifolds held the carbs just fine. Folks describe that the OEM box helps to stabilize the carbs so that they don't vibrate/bounce very much, and so the Pods allow them to "hang" on the boots and can bounce a bit more. Folks have rigged an extra brace bar from the frame to the carbs to help in stabilizing them in the absence of the airbox.

Brant/Motoman's knowledge and experience with tuning these and other bikes for racing and such is extensive. However, I think some of the statements about the detrimental performance from Pods is/was linked to our collective previous experience with the el cheapo Emgo cone shaped Pods with the restrictive mounting lips that interfered with the airflow of the inlet bell. And also folks were getting the crappy generic pilot jets that used the wrong metering, and both contributed to excessively rich conditions, poor throttle response, loss of power and topend.

Then, later on we learned/realized about the mounting lip, and the incorrect pilot jets, and came up with the mounting mods....pseudo velocity stacks and such that help to mimic the internal velocity stacks of the OEM airbox, straighten out the airflow into the carbs and also eliminated the inlet bell port restrictions. SO....many of us have installed POD filters, and with some modest rejetting adjustments, have had our bikes perform just fine, with good smooth throttle responses throughout the rpm range.

Like Brant stated, there really wasn't any increase in actual HP performance with the Pods, but due to either damaged airboxes, or just wanting easier R&R of the carbs, or a different aesthetic of Pods, or the extra "sound" affect with the Pods, folks have installed Pods and have been happy with them, and no report of carbs sliding off of the intake boots either. YMMV

T.C.

[motoman]

To better explain is very simple.......if you think for one second to have a performance gain from using pods instead of stock airbox, your dreaming....never gonna happen......in fact, overall performance LOSS is gonna be the result...period. FWIW, pods for bike carbs where originally designed to be used on a bike that runs quarter mile(drag-racing) at wide open throttle only. Everyday riding with different throttle applications, stock airbox IS the best option. Using pods and having a smooth overall running bike requires a Dyno-Jet kit which requires vacuum slide to be drilled a specific size and at a specific angle, along with likely main/piot jet changes. Unless your really some sort of carb guru, I suggest not using pods.

[motoman]

I think Doug has the Mike's pod filters. I'm sure others do as well. Somewhere in marketing world, I read the OE manifolds can't support carbs without the airbox. Granted, this was in a product description for replacement manifolds. I don't even think "manifolds" is the proper term which increases my skepticism. Nonetheless, I'm floating the question: has anyone had a problem with the carbs pulling away after "podding"?

Several here use the pods without any issue of needing support. Stock airbox is STILL the best option for smooth running and performance........reason being, it is all designed to operate correctly(the vacuum carbs especially)together as a unit. If your installing pods just for grins and giggles as opposed to the stock airbox, expect to miss the 'grins and giggles' part.

[puskrat]

Pods

I think Doug has the Mike's pod filters. I'm sure others do as well. Somewhere in marketing world, I read the OE manifolds can't support carbs without the airbox. Granted, this was in a product description for replacement manifolds. I don't even think "manifolds" is the proper term which increases my skepticism. Nonetheless, I'm floating the question: has anyone had a problem with the carbs pulling away after "podding"?