Weird electrical question

[motoman]

What in the WORLD would that have to do with the supplied voltage to the main wire?

It stands to reason that the voltage would drop as each accessory is powered up.

Just having what you stated in post #57 and post #58 as a bases, tells me there's initially resistance from battery source to fuse panel supply, somewhere.That's obviously not good......should be the same as at battery.

IIRC, previously you said the headlite comes on with key on, doesn't have to be triggered on from START mode. If still assuming that is correct, then there would be a LITTLE voltage drop when that circuit is complete with fuse insertion along with tail lite fuction.
Know this may sound mundane to you, but do you have access to a batt. load tester? A wet cell batt. may SHOW acceptable voltage(12.7-13.1v) across the post under NO load, but be lower than normally acceptable with load.
Case in point(since I no longer have access to good carbon=pile load tester), our Ford Escape's Interstate batt. showed 12.8v across post, no load.
Turn key on, that became 4v, with an obvious 'no start' situation.
Immediately, that indicates at minimum, 4 shorted cells!
Not sure what brand or load rating your batt. is, but a safe 220-240amp. load should tell you if it will hold a steady 10.5v under THAT load, for at least 30seconds. If voltage drops below that during that load test, that battery is comdemmed as failing, or very soon tottally fail!

That CAN be the source of the problem, low idle voltage and all the other things goin on voltage related.
Point being, checking the voltage source with a simple load test, and not just assumming since batt. shows acceptable voltage across post, that it is 'good' will at least eliminate it as being questionable.
This sort of thing has bit me in the arse more than I care to remember, ( with a shop foreman making me feel pretty stupid for not conducting a complete protocall test).

JAT Greg, and IMHO, would be the proper starting point.

[BA80]

So, your saying that voltage in a 14 guage wire shouldn't drop with a draw from several accessories without the charging system engaged?

[motoman]

So, your saying that voltage in a 14 guage wire shouldn't drop with a draw from several accessories without the charging system engaged?

No, just suggesting that the drop is enough to make a batt. suspect, presuming your making those connections(fuses) with it not running and charging system is out of the loop.
Your early on initial reporting of charging voltages at idle, with batt. not 'keeping up', for lack of better term, became my first suspect of either batt. 'heading south' or poor connections thru switches(ignition/kill switch), or both.
Either way, those low voltages are NOT anywhere close to acceptable, least not for a correctly operating charging system.

[BA80]

It's fairly common knowledge that these alternators don't actually charge, particularly below 2500 rpm. I've got from 12.9 to 13.9 at 2500 everywhere.

If it's not charging correctly it hasn't been for at least 5 years and about 75000 miles.

IIRC the battery tested out at 320 CCA.

I placed a jumper wire directly from the battery to the brown wire in the fuse panel and got exactly the same readings as through the ignition switch. Extra work I ain't lookin' for.

[motoman]

It's fairly common knowledge that these alternators don't actually charge, particularly below 2500 rpm. I've got from 12.9 to 13.9 at 2500 everywhere.

If it's not charging correctly it hasn't been for at least 5 years and about 75000 miles.

IIRC the battery tested out at 320 CCA.

I placed a jumper wire directly from the battery to the brown wire in the fuse panel and got exactly the same readings as through the ignition switch. Extra work I ain't lookin' for.

True on the first statement.......to a point.......regulator controls that rate.
From my testing, the stock regulator 'just' keeps up, but that's bout all at an idle....with a new, known good battery. Least mine does, testing at a r-e-a-l-l-y longer than normal idleing period, staying at 12.1-12.2v.

Second statement: don't feel like the lone ranger, mine wasn't charging correctly for over 6yrs..........bad connections that the regulator had no idea about, so just keeps charging at whatever rate the poor connections showed, resulting in having to add distilled water to battery more often than should of been necessary(another sign I'd forgotten about as suspect issue with charging sysyem).

And lastly, knew my Interstate load test specs. to be 340A for 30sec., so knew that would get ya' close without toasting the battery.
That CCA rating is NOT the load test rating either. There is a seperate load test spec. for that, in most cases anyway

[BA80]

True on the first statement.......to a point.......regulator controls that rate.
From my testing, the stock regulator 'just' keeps up, but that's bout all at an idle....with a new, known good battery. Least mine does, testing at a r-e-a-l-l-y longer than normal idleing period, staying at 12.1-12.2v.

Your bike must be special.

Second statement: don't feel like the lone ranger, mine wasn't charging correctly for over 6yrs..........bad connections that the regulator had no idea about, so just keeps charging at whatever rate the poor connections showed, resulting in having to add distilled water to battery more often than should of been necessary(another sign I'd forgotten about as suspect issue with charging sysyem).

It's charging just as it should.

And lastly, knew my Interstate load test specs. to be 340A for 30sec., so knew that would get ya' close without toasting the battery.
That CCA rating is NOT the load test rating either. There is a seperate load test spec. for that, in most cases anyway

CCA is how batteries are ALL tested now. If there is a load tester in the shop it's in the back room covered with cobwebs.

[motoman]

No, it's not special.......just normal again, as it should be.

Mine was charging fine too......which just showed that alt. and reg. were operating correctly, but that STILL doesn't take into account that the regulator has no idea there is poor connections in system.
Since your system seems to check out charging correctly, reg./alt. is ruled out as suspect at this piont.

To bad about the cobweb infested load tester/ charging system tester. I doubt any youg techs. of today even know how use one anyways. Love to have one, as you can test starter draws and a whole raft of things associated with start and charging systems besides battery load testing.
For example: had my 8yr. old previous Interstate batt. load tested at Interstate batteries here. The young guy tested it with a digiital tester(cringe). Digital meter said it was fine.......yep, I questioned that, and knew they had an older carbon pile load tester, which BTW he hadn't a clue how to use. I ened up showing him how to use it, did the load test at the specified amps shown on the Interstate load test chart according to battery part no. When loaded at the specified amp. load, 15sec. into the test, battery dropped from the correct held voltage of 10.5v....and kept dropping.........I rest my case with digital 'quickie' testering equip..

CCA testing of batteries today is just a shortcut as to actual formula that SHOULD be used in calculating that for a CORRECT load test, least for lead-acid wet cell batteries, which includes AGM, as they are STILL lead-acid wet cell.... which I don't remember that formula at all anymore.

Another 'sure sign' of a possible battery failing, is when you put the charger on it(in this case,1-1.5amp charge), if a cell or cells start bubbling shortly, those cells are shorting out. An overcharging rate, granted will do the same thing, but this if you know for sure that charge rate is correct for that batt. application.

None of that may be of any help right now, but may in the future.

Kinda hard to pin-point the issue using the site back and forth, but from the info you've provided.......still have to lean towards faulty positive+ connections at fault.

[BA80]

I placed a jumper wire directly from the battery to the brown wire in the fuse panel and got exactly the same readings as through the ignition switch. Extra work I ain't lookin' for.

Obligatory words to make the post work.............

[motoman]

Obligatory words to make the post work.............

Knew that, so made no referance to that.

Also know you don't want that scoot givin' you issues at XSSoutheast, or anytime before or after.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Knew that, so made no referance to that.

Also know you don't want that scoot givin' you issues at XSSoutheast, or anytime before or after.

+1 Brandt!

I'm sure he wouldn't find the passenger seat of my C14 too fun...
Don't need no bee-ach slowin me down on the Dragon! Lol

Plus, getting to the battery on my bike is a mutha! Not easy to jump start from, at all!

[BA80]

Ha ha ha.......you just try and keep up Bobby.

[motoman]

Ha ha ha.......you just try and keep up Bobby.

155ponies of a Connie14!.............that would be a S-L-I-G-H-T stretch, even for me on my ST1100 with a 100ponies @ the wheel.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Ha ha ha.......you just try and keep up Bobby.

Hahahaha...!

And you try to stay upright, ok?

Then we'll have a deal.