Weird electrical question

[BA80]

Isn't that what the regulator/rectifier is supposed to do?

[BA80]

Hmm... if it works with just the battery voltage when the engine's not running, what's the voltage at the adapter? Is the Headlight Relay bypassed so the headlight comes on before the engine starts?

Randy's got an idea there too.

What's the voltage at the adapter when the engine's running and the adapter shuts off? Check the voltage where the adapter plugs in, not at the battery or somewhere else that's easy to get to, and let the engine run at the RPM where the adapter would shut down. If you can't check the voltage with the adapter plugged in, take it out, run the engine and just pretend the adapter is flashing and shutting off while you check the voltage.

.

Ok, voltage at the power outlet key off 12.45, key on 10.34, running at idle (when the adapter cuts out) 10.34 varyng a bit, 3000 rpms 12.45.

[3Phase]

Ok, voltage at the power outlet key off 12.45, key on 10.34, running at idle (when the adapter cuts out) 10.34 varyng a bit, 3000 rpms 12.45.

It's probably low voltage and the adapter is shutting off. Like Randy suggested, you might be able to get it to stop doing that by putting a capacitor across the leads at the power socket.

SWAG:

The voltmeter is smoothing/averaging the indicated DC voltage on its display to around 10.34V when the engine's idling instead of trying to show hundreds, possibly thousands, of different voltages per minute that are above and below the indicated 10.34V.

The company that made the USB adapter wants to make money instead of buying new equipment for its former customers so the USB adapter doesn't smooth or average Jack, it flashes a warning and shuts off. The adapter won't work again until it's been reset so it cannot possibly wreck your phone or anything else that's using the adapter.

.

[BA80]

I may run a separate wire up to the fairing harness for that power outlet and see what happens. It's plugged into a power all the time wire where the headlight bucket used to be.

Key on engine off I have 11.32 at the battery and 9.85 at the fuses. Where could I be losing 1.5 volts? I've checked the connections on the main fuse and the main power wire off the battery. All is good there.

If I run a jumper from the battery to the red wire that runs through the plug for the fairing the charger stays on.

[BA80]

it flashes a warning and shuts off. The adapter won't work again until it's been reset so it cannot possibly wreck your phone or anything else that's using the adapter.

.

I can't charge my phone either.......

[3Phase]

To get the voltage back on your bike, just follow the Red wire and clean every connector from the battery up to and including the Ignition Switch, then follow the Brown wire back down to the Fuse Block and do the same thing. Unless the wires are toasted and started to turn into long resistors with pretty vinyl jackets that'll get rid of the voltage drop.

I can't charge my phone either.......

And the USB adapter company that's making fractions of a cent profit per widget doesn't have to replace the undervolted $25,000 laptop that Daddy Warbucks bought for Little Orphan Annie to design doll clothes, doll houses, and keep cute pictures of her dog Sandy.

.

[motoman]

I can't charge my phone either.......

Hi Greg,
Did you happen to use the existing accessory wiring in the fairing? Didn't know whether the Windjamers had extra accessory wiring inside fairing or not like the Vetter Yamaha fairings. If so, check the fairing plug-in and its associated pins for voltage drops,etc..
Stating you have 1+v drop leads to ignition switch as a possible voltage drop area........common, as you know.
Bottom line is, your either missin' voltages in primary system..........or battery is marginal. That 10 whatever volts with key on is enough to have secondary ignition work properly, along with the TCI, as you know, but is STILL marginal.
After Scott sourced out my missin' volts, key on, differences from batt. voltage(12.8v) compared to prim. sources, coils, etc. WITH key on was only .03millivolts. Now, the still COMPLETELY stock ign./charging system, while idleing is in the 12.2-12.4v range, with no drop continued idling.......as it SHOULD be with a still stock system.
In other words, even if one installed one of Geezer's regulaters to 'fix' a low idle voltage issue that's under 12v at idle, that ain't no fix,,,,,the issue still exist......it's just a band-aid, that compensates for a still existing(majority of cases) voltage loss due to a faulty connection........which will make the over-charging issue I referred to even WORSE, killing batt. life that much sooner. That, I DO know for sure.....no speculation there!
Any more, I don't try to remember the technical terminology, following and checking system issues like 3Phase and other electrical gurus, as that was not my interest even though I was taught all that hands-on over several decades with a whole array of different auto applications. I just remembered back then enough to quickly isolate the issue, but wasn't able to answer what lead me to the problem with all the technical crap when questioned by shop foreman or documenting some long, drawn out technical explanation to justify my findings. I just knew how to 'get there from here' so to speak.
That was the reason for my laymen type explanation in post #10......no insult to your intelligence, or anyone elses intended.
Alot of times(more so than not), I know how to get there from here.....just haven't a clue when it comes to explaining, specially if I have to try and remember alot of 12v system electrical terminology! I just leave all that up the electrical gurus here......and as you notice I post very little help in that area, cause I'd just end up confusing the masses.

[BA80]

Hi Greg,
Did you happen to use the existing accessory wiring in the fairing? Didn't know whether the Windjamers had extra accessory wiring inside fairing or not like the Vetter Yamaha fairings. If so, check the fairing plug-in and its associated pins for voltage drops,etc..
Stating you have 1+v drop leads to ignition switch as a possible voltage drop area........common, as you know.
Bottom line is, your either missin' voltages in primary system..........or battery is marginal. That 10 whatever volts with key on is enough to have secondary ignition work properly, along with the TCI, as you know, but is STILL marginal.
After Scott sourced out my missin' volts, key on, differences from batt. voltage(12.8v) compared to prim. sources, coils, etc. WITH key on was only .03millivolts. Now, the still COMPLETELY stock ign./charging system, while idleing is in the 12.2-12.4v range, with no drop continued idling.......as it SHOULD be with a still stock system.
In other words, even if one installed one of Geezer's regulaters to 'fix' a low idle voltage issue that's under 12v at idle, that ain't no fix,,,,,the issue still exist......it's just a band-aid, that compensates for a still existing(majority of cases) voltage loss due to a faulty connection........which will make the over-charging issue I referred to even WORSE, killing batt. life that much sooner. That, I DO know for sure.....no speculation there!
Any more, I don't try to remember the technical terminology, following and checking system issues like 3Phase and other electrical gurus, as that was not my interest even though I was taught all that hands-on over several decades with a whole array of different auto applications. I just remembered back then enough to quickly isolate the issue, but wasn't able to answer what lead me to the problem with all the technical crap when questioned by shop foreman or documenting some long, drawn out technical explanation to justify my findings. I just knew how to 'get there from here' so to speak.
That was the reason for my laymen type explanation in post #10......no insult to your intelligence, or anyone elses intended.
Alot of times(more so than not), I know how to get there from here.....just haven't a clue when it comes to explaining, specially if I have to try and remember alot of 12v system electrical terminology! I just leave all that up the electrical gurus here......and as you notice I post very little help in that area, cause I'd just end up confusing the masses.

Yes, I am using the harness and the power outlet that was in the fairing I crashed. It worked fine in that one.

The voltage at the battery and at the outlet is approximately 13.5 volts at 3k running and drops back to just about right at 12v at the battery at idle and down to about 10.6v at the outlet.

I'm thinking there are 2 possibilities here, in my mind anyway.

(1) My cheap , lazy azz is still running the stock 35 year old fuse panel and it's time to bite the bullet and swap it out.

(2) The reg/rec is headed south and letting too many ac pulses into the dc system at idle which is kicking the breaker in the adapter.

My aftermarket horns quit working a while back and I had to run a power wire directly from the battery to get them to work. The stock power wire for the horns (light brown) suddenly wouldn't carry enough amps to run them and it used to. I even tried using the unswitched axillary power connection in the fuse panel.

[motoman]

Yes, I am using the harness and the power outlet that was in the fairing I crashed. It worked fine in that one.

The voltage at the battery and at the outlet is approximately 13.5 volts at 3k running and drops back to just about right at 12v at the battery at idle and down to about 10.6v at the outlet.

I'm thinking there are 2 possibilities here, in my mind anyway.

(1) My cheap , lazy azz is still running the stock 35 year old fuse panel and it's time to bite the bullet and swap it out.

(2) The reg/rec is headed south and letting too many ac pulses into the dc system at idle which is kicking the breaker in the adapter.

My aftermarket horns quit working a while back and I had to run a power wire directly from the battery to get them to work. The stock power wire for the horns (light brown) suddenly wouldn't carry enough amps to run them and it used to. I even tried using the unswitched axillary power connection in the fuse panel.

Yup.....your missin' primary voltages through out the whole system.........betin' your coils will be happier too once you find the sources of all the missin' volts. The battery is takin' a 'hosin' too.

Doubtful IMO at his point that the reg. is an issue.........no offense, but your startin' and the wrong end of the source of the problem attacking the regulator. While changing out the fuse panel, might wanna unplug all five of the plug-ins behind it and clean all that. Know you've done that in the past, but overkill on the dielectic grease eventually CAN loose ya' a quarter to half a volt....DAHIK.
See your like me.......if ain't broke, don't fix it.....well.....it broke.
And If you'll be heading to a rally, Murphy's Law says 300 miles from nowhere is where it keep you from getting somwhere.

I'm thinkin' that new fangdangled accessory port may have saved you a walk or your thumb out.

[BA80]

Looking at the schematic the only plug/switch between the battery and the fuse panel is the ignition switch and the only components that comes into play when running in the charging system are the rec/reg and the alternator.(when the problem occurs)

Since I have 12+ volts at idle at the battery and 13.5 at 2500-3000 it think the alternator could be ruled out.

Since the adapter stays working KOEO and KOER at full charging rpm but only kicks off KOER at idle rpms it stands to reason, in my mind anyway, that the problem is with the charging system at low rpm.

You get my reasoning here?

The low voltage is something that does need to be addressed but not necessarily it cause of THIS issue since the voltage is approximately the same KOEO as KOER at idle.

I HATE ELECTRICAL CRAP!!!!!!!!

Maybe all the magic smoke leaked out and I need to refill it.

[motoman]

Post #25......add to your statement the kill switch. The chance your missin' SOME of that all important smoke there is fair to good. Again, DAHIK.

Now see......if ya'd showed up this direction, you coulda' scared my carbs into workin' and I coulda' put the all important smoke back in.

[BA80]

The kill switch is in the ignition resistor circuit on the SG. As far as I can see it has nothing to do with the charging circuit. It just kills the power to the resistor in the stop position.

[BA80]

Well, the solenoid and the TCI too. But, still not in the charging circuit.

[motoman]

On a positive note, circumstances keeping you at bay from the Colo. rally last month may have been a blessing in disguise.

[BA80]

Naw, Okie's running great. This is just minor. I would hop on him and ride anywhere. No worries.

I just want to be able to charge my stinkin' phone!