What did you do to your bike today?

[motoman]

I was still trying to fix that stud from Joe's. Cannot drill the extractor. Greg says to melt it with Acetylene. I cant think of anything else to do.

Had to trash that left muffler bank. That blowout was catastrophic.

John

CRS John, did you have an easy-out break off while trying to remove that stud last year at Joe's?.

[jwhughes3]

No - it broke off yesterday right before I started drinking....

John

[motoman]

No - it broke off yesterday right before I started drinking....

John

Ouch....tiny sharp chisel and hammer.......hard-rocker minin' style, breakin' a piece at a time outa' there.

[MaximPhil]

No - it broke off yesterday right before I started drinking....

John

Hi John,
I feel your pain. My current situation is a broken stud below the surface. I am extremely apprehensive of using an easy out but so far no other solution presents it's self.
To save me from your situation do you have any suggestions in hind sight?

Phil

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Phil,

Those studs are steel, head aluminum, and then Yamaha probably used some RED locktite to hold them in there, along with the differing metals tendency to corrode/fuse together!

Small Drill bit and drill thru it. Might even want to take out a stud next to it and measure how deep it is/goes into the head, and if there is any room beyond the end of the stud...like space behind it before you bottom into the head metal itself. Then drill successively larger holes into the stud. You might find some reverse thread drill bits. Then apply heat gun to head/stud, then quench with PB blaster and REPEAT to help break the corrosion fusion or threadlock. After this, using the next larger reverse bit, and the stud might actually TURN OUT with the bit while drilling. Drill bits aren't quite as strong as easy outs but close.

IF it doesn't come out, then you can decide if you want to try the easy out, or just keep drilling larger holes until you get to the threads width where you might be able to pick out the grooves with a metal pick? Or just drill larger,then RETAP with a Helicoil type replacement/repair. OR just tap to a larger sized stud, and drill a slightly larger sized hole in your exhaust manifold bracket to match!?!?

T.C.

[TopCatGr58]

What I've done lately.

Okay, after many weeks working on this Gauge Cluster conversion, finally got it done. See the Questions about gauges thread. Also installed a new Shinko 230 Tourmaster 110/90-19 on the front, had to take my fancy modded FZ600 dual piston calipers off/apart to get the wheel off and then back on! Also put on some nifty HI POWERed LED aux driving lights to replace the pair of 55 watt Halogens. See the HID conversion thread for info and photos....they are BRIGHT and only draw ~1 amp each instead of ~4.5 amps per each HALOGEN! Just getting Godzilla ready for the XS East rally in W.Va at the end of the month!

T.C.

[BA80]

Installed a Flux Capacitor on Ol' Okie today. It drank all my beer and ate the cans too.


BTW.......what year is this?

[MaximPhil]

Thanks TC.
I have some left hand drill bits PB Blaster and gas torch and am hoping for the best when we remove the engine so we can actually attempt to hit the middle of the stud so your suggestion works. Ultimately I can have a friend at a machine shop "magic" it out if I take the head off.
Along with everything else I have on my plate. The question is can it be done in time for XSEast?
i certainly hope so.
Phil

[MarkD]

Today, I started the bike. I installed new Techna-Fit S. Steel brake lines, rebuilt forks and refinished the lowers, cleaned enrichener (choke) circuit passages, and other assorted chores this winter. Yesterday, I started the bike, and discovered the dreaded '' leaky float bowl'' issue that gets so much ink on our forum. So, today, off came the carbs, again, I trimmed the gasket on the offensive bowl, and cleaned the needle/seat area. No leak, but the idle is high, I think I may have tweaked the throttle cable where it feeds into carbs. Will tackle that tomorrow. At any rate, I started my bike and gave it a good test ride.
I do NOT like the loudness of my muffler/baffles, so I will post on that issue later, as I think it's time to go quieter.

[tcoop]

Put a new front tire on my wife's XJ. It has been sitting on the back patio since Sept. with rim off the bike. Looks like I will be needing new bearings. On a positive note. I put the key in opened the choke hit the start button...and nothing so I puled the clutch in and flipped the kill switch and she started right up. So I pulled it around to the garage to start the second gear fix.

[Poprock]

Got the King of Kong out of the garage after a fuel line fiasco and a lost nut being found amidst the throttle linkage on the carbs. Real happy to find that at home! Runs great, looks good with LED running lights (cheapo) and a HID projector beam headlight, per the HID Conversion thread. Yet to try it at night but indications are positive so far.

[STEPPENWOLF]

A few years back A few CHOICE words were said

[3Phase]

Today I checked the valve clearances and checked the cam chain guides for wear.

The chain guides look great! No problems! Yay! <wiping cold sweat from forehead>

The #1 Exhaust valve was too tight at 0.007" so I had to change one shim. 275 down to a 270, and now the clearance is 0.009" so that should be good for a while.


I got tired of making valve cover gaskets or trying to be super-neat with Yamabond so I'm trying an experiment with Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker.

It looks like it should do the job but it takes a long time to cure. I'm letting it sit overnight before I start the engine and I really hope it doesn't leak!


Permatex TDS snippets:

Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker PX #51813 -- 50 ml tube

Gap cure (inch):
0.010 diametral ( Unprimed)
0.050 diametral (Primed)

Cure Speed (Hours):
4 – 24 (Unprimed)
30 Minutes – 4 (Primed)




.

[Aches n Pains]

Hmmmm. I thought that stuff was only good to about 300F. I'd be concerned that it might melt.

[natemoen]

Hmmmm. I thought that stuff was only good to about 300F. I'd be concerned it might melt.

There are no specific temps given by permatex. It just states that it creates "a temperature resistent seal". It also states to heat a part to 400-450 degrees for removal.