No surrender

[saddle up]

Wow what a post!

Sort of scanned this puppy and it is overload time for me.
Top Cat, your still the man. lol
I've tried to do the tranny work of several bike's. Never did get it right. **** tried a couple of car tranny's. Didn't do any good there either. But thinking back it all comes back to the proper size shims, where ever they may be. I've read and reread all the tranny tips on this sight, and I got to admit I am a big chicken when it comes to transmission's. Motor work, no problem. So far no problems with my scooter, but once in a while I'll miss a shift or not engage good enough. That makes me want to baby the first to second shift. But by babying it I am not probably doing myself a favor... e.i. firm engagement..
I have a second complete tranny, with good looking gears, but the shift forks are looking crappy. So I am not looking forward to the tranny dilemia,, at all, but am sort of half-ass prepared.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey BNE,

Yes, the bike will still work with the hoses connected to the Octy wrong, because when the petcocks are in the ON position, the fuel would just flow directly thru the hose with the extra "T" fitting that should be the Prime Bypass circuit, but will go directly to the carbs. The bad thing is that IF the petocks develop a leak, it will leak directly to the carbs and not be stopped by the OCTY!

The hose that connects to the front nipple of the petcock is to be the one that has the extra "T" fitting in the line. The rear nipple gets the hose that goes directly to the OCTY valve.

IF you really want to remove it, you'll need to put a bolt into the end of a piece of fuel hose, clamp it and attach it to the FRONT nipple of the petcock, you won't need the Prime outlet! Then just run the rear petcock nipple directly to the carb fuel inlet. You may want to get some inline filters from Napa/auto store to put between the petcock and the carb. Most folks run the right petcock to the left carb pair and vice versa. You may want to get some NEW fuel line from local bike shop, the auto store stuff is too stiff and thick....unless you get the stuff from Napa for VW's....IIRC!

The fouled plug was due to the excess fuel from the loose pilot jet, not from the SeaFoam! Okay, good to know you got the vacuum hoses on correctly. Hopefully the good plug will finally solve the high rpm miss?? But how about taking off one of the air filter pods and check the mounting ring, make sure it's wide open and no restricting lip?
T.C.

[madmax-im]

We Won!

It took a while but we didnt surrender....amazing course of events since my initial post.Not only in that MadMax is fixed but that I had alot of help from Randy and TC.The initial frustrations I had and my reasoning to pay someone to do the work have now morphed into doing the work myself with help OFC.The victories that were had and the pitfalls too were all part of the big picture.Based upon what I learned by watching Randy and TC ...I figured I could take Max the rest of the way and solve the carb problem...So I have a lot more confidence that I can do the work myself now.A valuable learning experience to be sure....I am alot more enlightened...Thanks TC and Randy you guys are the BEST.

[madmax-im]

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Hey BNE,

Yes, the bike will still work with the hoses connected to the Octy wrong, because when the petcocks are in the ON position, the fuel would just flow directly thru the hose with the extra "T" fitting that should be the Prime Bypass circuit, but will go directly to the carbs. The bad thing is that IF the petocks develop a leak, it will leak directly to the carbs and not be stopped by the OCTY!

The hose that connects to the front nipple of the petcock is to be the one that has the extra "T" fitting in the line. The rear nipple gets the hose that goes directly to the OCTY valve.

IF you really want to remove it, you'll need to put a bolt into the end of a piece of fuel hose, clamp it and attach it to the FRONT nipple of the petcock, you won't need the Prime outlet! Then just run the rear petcock nipple directly to the carb fuel inlet. You may want to get some inline filters from Napa/auto store to put between the petcock and the carb. Most folks run the right petcock to the left carb pair and vice versa. You may want to get some NEW fuel line from local bike shop, the auto store stuff is too stiff and thick....unless you get the stuff from Napa for VW's....IIRC!

The fouled plug was due to the excess fuel from the loose pilot jet, not from the SeaFoam! Okay, good to know you got the vacuum hoses on correctly. Hopefully the good plug will finally solve the high rpm miss?? But how about taking off one of the air filter pods and check the mounting ring, make sure it's wide open and no restricting lip?
T.C.

Alright TC I will check on doing this tmrw....Thanks for the info...I will check the pod side mounting ring...there should be no lip on the inside diameter of the pod filter?BTW I found the diagram of the octy routing so I know its right...

[madmax-im]

Abt the Seafoam

I was merely stating that I was runing seafoam thru the system and after one tank I checked the #2 plug and it was wet with gas.Not implying that seafoam caused the plug to foul.I fully understand the lack of the pilot jet was the reason for the fouled plug

[madmax-im]

Hey TC...Today I went to change the fouled plug in #2 cyl. but the plug was clean...and a light grey color...it wasnt really fouled previously just wet with gas...so it burned off its got good color,so I reinstalled it...Pulled off one of the K+N pods and heres the pics of the inside diameter

[TopCatGr58]

OKay BNE,

Sounds good on the plug, especially since you said that ALL 4 cylinders were burning hot=hot pipes!! That filter looks good also, no restriction on the mounting area, a nice straight thru surface!

Need to do some more test runs and check to see IF the clutch is trying to slip....usually will occur in higher gear at the 5k+ rpm range, you'll see the rpms rise but the speed won't! Could be just a need to adjust the throwout rod at the engine, as well as checking the slack at the handlebar.

IF it's not slipping but just not accelerating much past the 6k point, then it could be that the mains may not be big enough?

More data on how it behaves will be helpful, like can it easily rev to redline in the lower gears, but not in 4th, you might not be able to check 5th?
T.C.

[madmax-im]

Blowing out the cobwebs

Hey TC...Max has been dormant so longToday started out like any other recently...bike runs ok but still seems to be resisting moving...so I took him for a 100 mile run.The longer the bike runs the better it gets.Now it seems to be rolling along better.Low and Midrange acceleration is very good but high rpm acceleration is bogging down at times depending on what gear and speed.Overall though he is a runner again and after the 100 miles ..it seemed to blow out the cobwebs and he is running so smooth now!Engine and exhaust note sound like the bike is singing.Oh its a great feeling to have this bike back on the road.I have yet to rid the Octy...but I will as I dont like all those hoses running around ...looks messy...Tmrw I will do a more in depth study of how each gear is performing in relation to RPMs and MPH and where the bog down occurs BTW I am getting used to the clutch and its pretty nice and easy

[madmax-im]

Final Update

I am surprised I didnt do the final update....anyways even after the discovery of the missing pilot jet...getting Max to run flat out in 5th gear without bogging was still frustrating me. I had discovered a bike shop 30 miles from me that will work on older bikes...that is their specialty. So I took him in and had a few issues addressed. It was discovered that the carbs were still too lean and that was the reason it was idling erractically and bogging under WOT in 5th gear. The new pilots installed solved the jetting issues and now the bike runs like it hasn't in many years. While that is solved I now had a problem with the Windjammer IV. It was vibrating and shaking the windsheild. I decided that there wasnt enough foam rubber insulating the fairing from the mounting bracket. Sure enough the foam TC and I used initially was totally flattened like tape and was not damping the vibes. I just finished installing thick foam strips and larger fender washers...hope that does the trick...Cant ride it yet as the weather really sucks and now I've discovered that the brakes are doing the Jekyl and Hyde thing...LOL So first warm Spring day and the brake system front and rear are getting a makeover ...Cant wait for XSEast!!!

[petejw]

good to hear you got it running properly,
was just curious what size jets you ended up using?

[madmax-im]

I forgot what was previously in there but the main jets are now 138s'.The formula thats listed on this site for calculating pilot and main jet sizes is not set in stone.It was enough to get in the ball park but still wasnt right.If I hadnt taken the bike in to this shop...I'd still be wondering WTF?

[trbig]

the main jets are now 138s'

Do you have Dynojet jets in it? If you used Mikuni jets, it would be a 137.5.. correct? (They go in 2.5 increments) What did you end up using in the pilots?

Tod

[madmax-im]

Do you have Dynojet jets in it? If you used Mikuni jets, it would be a 137.5.. correct? (They go in 2.5 increments) What did you end up using in the pilots?

Tod

Dynojets I have to go back and check what the pilots are.ok stock mains were 112.5 now are DJ 138s' and pilots were 47.5 and now up one size to 50

[madmax-im]

YICS Eliminator

I got one of these from Larry. Come Spring I'm gonna install it and re-synch the carbs and re-plumb fuel lines sans the Octy