2010 MoM work list

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  • draketrumpet
    replied
    My tires

    On the front I'm sporting a Dunlop K 491 F Elite G/T.
    The best I could do on an oval shaped wasn't much of an oval and had 6 figures, one really worn, I couldn't make sense of to figure out a date:
    (H or K) 39338
    The back one is a Cheng Shin Hi Max, but it was easy: 4005

    I'm suspect of the front tire, and realize I'll need to replace the rear before the end of the year to be on the safe side.

    Are John and Kat set up to do tires too? If so, I think I'll order those Shinkos ($8 cheaper than the bridgestones) and bring them down/have them shipped there. If not, I guess I'll have to drop the $80 to have them installed.

    Do I need to replace tubes at the same time as the tires?

    Leave a comment:


  • trbig
    replied
    Shinko makes a decent tire from what I've heard and you can get a SET for @ $100.


    Not to start another tire thread, but I keep 40 cold psi in mine. You could ease down the road and watch the front tire.. just be careful where you're going. The back... you can put on the center stand, start it, put it in 1st and let the wheel spin while you watch it. The tread should track straight.

    Tod

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  • CatatonicBug
    replied
    Originally posted by draketrumpet
    How old is too old?
    Tires that are any more than 5 years old should be replaced. The rubber just gets too hard and brittle to properly grip the road. I learned that my second week of riding, when I laid down on a low speed turn. After I replaced the tires, I instantly saw an imrovement in handling and stability.

    Leave a comment:


  • draketrumpet
    replied
    So I know when I look tomorrow:

    How old is too old?

    About the pressure thing, I trust your experience and knowledge, but if it were filled to over max specs at cold (front/rear was 40/42), would that really not cause instability as it warmed up? When I dropped them down to 36/38, it seemed fine until Fri. when I rode it for longer than I had before in some of our warmest weather yet, and the instability came back. I let out another 2 lbs each and continued and they seemed fine.

    Would broken/weak chords with too much PSI cause the wobble? Alas, I don't have a jack, but I'm pretty sure my tires are going to be older than is safe for extended riding, so I'm shopping for tires now. I'll probably get some cheap Bridgestone S11s to start with as I really need to keep it as cheap as possible for now and I don't plan on doing the aggressive twisties it seems you're always telling us about...maybe one day.

    Leave a comment:


  • XSokieSPECIAL
    replied
    Originally posted by draketrumpet
    97 posts versus 1k plus....are you sure you are almost as new?
    SO.................someone who is studying law should recognize bullsh!t when they see it.

    Isn't there a class on that, " Bullsh!t 101 " in your liar education? LOL

    Leave a comment:


  • trbig
    replied
    I'm slowly bringing them down until they don't wobble when warm
    Sounds like broken chords in the tire(s).

    If you have a floor jack, put it on the center stand, jack the front wheel off the ground and spin it. If you see the tread wobble from side to side, the tire is bad. If it's good, let it down and check the back.

    Too LITTLE air might make it feel wobbly, but too much air should have no feel... just wear the center of the tire prematurely.

    Were the tires on the bike when you bought it? If so, somewhere on the tire, there's an oval shaped stamp with 4 numbers melted into the sidewall. First two numbers are the week the tire was made in the particular year, and the second 2 numbers are the year it was made. Might want to find out just how old they are.


    Tod

    Leave a comment:


  • trbig
    replied
    For the fork seals, you need a fork seal kit. The Yamaha seals are best.

    For the petcocks, you need a petcock rebuild kit. Your best bet is probably Ebay for that.

    John and Kat will have all the tools you need and a synch gauge.

    For plugs and wires, you can buy new plugs, (BP6ES) but the wires are built into your coils and it's a bit of a chore to swap them. For now, I'd leave the wires alone, but that's your call.


    Tod

    Leave a comment:


  • draketrumpet
    replied
    Originally posted by XSokieSPECIAL
    ......ease up on the inferiority complex.

    It ain't a contest.
    check.

    I'm almost as new to this as you
    97 posts versus 1k plus....are you sure you are almost as new?

    but as far as I can tell this sort of thing is held for people JUST LIKE you and me.
    I started getting that feeling after I posted the above post and was reading some older threads. Without inferiority, I am truly very grateful.

    Good people, leave the law books at home and bring beer.
    I solemnly swear to bring no law book (unless you consider a service manual a law book), but as I understand it is a BYOB affair, and thus I hope no one minds when they see the "Barq's" on the side of my "beer" cans.

    I'm still travelin' through there if ya need help bro'.
    I'll be stickin' around until cBug rolls through here. If you roll through around the same time, the more the merrier . As far as help, I think I should be able to make it ok as is. Went on a 50 miler the other day and the only issue was too much PSI in the tires...the PO had them filled to the brim and I'm slowly bringing them down until they don't wobble when warm, so the most I should have to do is stop to let out a little more air if that shows up again.

    That being said, I do really have questions about how many parts I am going to need to bring with me. I don't think we could get much done if we tear my bike apart only to have to wait until Monday to get some parts shipped in. SWMBO would not be happy, not to mention the school.

    Leave a comment:


  • XSokieSPECIAL
    replied
    Dude......

    ......ease up on the inferiority complex.

    It ain't a contest.

    I'm almost as new to this as you but as far as I can tell this sort of thing is held for people JUST LIKE you and me.

    Just trying to figure out how to make these old machines run right.

    Good people, leave the law books at home and bring beer.

    I'm still travelin' through there if ya need help bro'.

    Leave a comment:


  • draketrumpet
    replied
    Originally posted by draketrumpet
    1. Brakes
    2. replace brake fluid (clean the system out)
    3. Front fork oil (and maybe seals????)
    4. Take a peek at all my bearings and make sure they're ok
    5. Figure out if any of my loose electrical wires actually belong to something important or useful
    6. decide if I need to replace throttle cable
    7. sync carbs
    8. decide if carbs need to be cleaned
    9. check plugs and respective cables
    10. clean/rebuild petcocks
    11. clean tank/decide if I need to get it sealed
    12. middle and final gear oil changes
    13. shock oil (I think they have oil in them, right?)
    14. anything that can be done about any rust any where
    15. get the thing sparkly clean, well...within reason
    16. anything else that we learn about while I'm there that I'm clueless about now
    Ok, so looking at my list, I'm trying to decide what parts I need to make sure to acquire before coming and what party might be available locally down there.
    So far I have brake pads and 3 carb boots coming my way (hopefully one of my 4 will be good enough to work with).

    I imagine I can get all sorts of fluids, lubricants, and cleaners down there.

    What seals might I need for my suspension system and where can I get them? I think one of my forks has a bad seal b/c there is a tiny bit of oil on the bottom of my right fork. Of course, the sheer XS weight makes this feel like a Cadillac compared to my old ride, so I wouldn't know if my forks were great or horrible.

    What kinds of things would I need to pick up for a general petcock rebuild? Any particular seals or gaskets?

    I also figure if anything needs to be done about my plugs and wires, can I get those around there or should I be looking now?

    Tools:This might be silly, but I'm assuming I can borrow a body's tools. I sure hope so. Will someone have a sync tool?

    Also, I've been pondering getting a stock front fender, if I did, would y'all mind if I shipped it there? Or does someone who is coming have a spare they'd part with for under $40? (Looks are secondary to function and longevity at this point.)

    Man, maybe in 3 years I won't feel like such a burden. Thanks in advance to all.

    Leave a comment:


  • trbig
    replied
    I'll lap the valves if needed and shim it up. Just remember to bring the cams you're going to use. I'll swap it out for that bearing for Kat if you want... It's the least I can do for all their food I plan on eating!


    Tod

    Leave a comment:


  • RODS454
    replied
    Wheel bearings

    OK Kat, you got it. Now, who wants to do a little bartering. I got a complete head, w/cams, off e-bay, and would like to get it checked out. If valves need working, and shimming. I have bearings to trade. Any takers? I'm leaving for Arkansas to go fishing in the morning and will be back Sunday afternoon. PM me, and I'll check in Monday.
    Thanks,RODS454

    Leave a comment:


  • Wildkat
    replied
    Excellent!
    Please put my name on one of them...

    Leave a comment:


  • RODS454
    replied
    Rear Wheel Bearings

    OK guys and gals. I have 8 rear wheel bearings available to anyone going to MoM in April. NA-5904. I'll bring them over. $42.50.
    Thanks, Rod454

    Leave a comment:


  • XSokieSPECIAL
    replied
    Cool......

    .......I'll need to stop in Gainsville and pick up my new seat and maybe a friend that might come along but we can can coordinate for safety and any emergency sake.

    Looking forward to it.

    Leave a comment:

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