Possible fuel line issue?

[Larrym]

Sooooo, tell me more about this P/U wire?

Pickup coil wire??? (O_o)

DiverRay and his provided link to the test/repair is ZACTLY where's I would'a pointed you to. (^_^)

Imma not sure what the gauge of the wires is, but I, myself, plan on using flexible silicone stranded wire. (°‿°)

Search THAT on Amazon and you'll get tons of results but they's all in large 30 foot/60 foot spools like you's operatin' a rewiring sweatshop bidness.... ヽ(~～~ )ノ

So? (O_o)



Imma gonna cut the ends off of a spare test of test leads like shown above and solder them in. MUCH mOaR flexible and bendy. (〜^∇^)〜

And how do I check to see if it's that or the coil itself? Where do I go from here?

Same answer to BOTH questions. Time to get yerself a repair manual and read the Fark outta it. ٩(◕‿◕)۶

Dunno what model or year you gots so's just go HERE and download the FREE PDF from a safe/trusted former XS owner-

https://ringler.us/

I do feel like we are getting somewhere finally. I have been spinning my wheels on this for a while.


Yeah... These bikes ain't much fun to own unless you can actually use'em to ride to Walmart-and-back just to buy tube socks/beef jerkey. (⌒_⌒)


Like Deebs said...but I'll do it a bit louder.....


AIR FILTERS??!

[DEEBS11]

Yes. Cheap filters plugging the air jet for the mixture. Running with the choke on only made it worse (rich).

[shopteach]

Do you guys have suggestions as to what and where to get the correct pod filters?

[shopteach]

Whoops, guess it takes a min to upload.

[DEEBS11]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182441474639

[DEEBS11]

Do you guys have suggestions as to what and where to get the correct pod filters?

Before you buy filters please try to remove your filters and take the bike for a short ride.

[bikerphil]

Some of us make velocity stacks out of the old air box inlet tubes in order to use the cheap pod filters. No blockage that way.

[DEEBS11]

Note: You may want black filters instead of red. These also do not block the air holes.

[DEEBS11]

No block design.

[LAB3]

I've seen videos of people modifying the cheap pods by taking a Stanley knife or similar sharp instrument and cutting away the lip on the filter to keep it from blocking those small ports, might be worth trying!

[shopteach]

I took the cover off last night and looked at the wires gave them a stretch and they seemed fine. Can you guy tell me which of the P/U wires runs the coil on the left side (the one that runs the 2 outside cylinders) of the bike? There are 2 wires at the front top and 2 at the bottom rear of the P/U coil. I was going to chase the wire up from the P/U coil to the main coil. I am thinking it is a wire problem to the coil or the main coil itself. This weekend I am also going to take the main coil off and check it as well. I do have a manual and will check the ohms on both sides.

Awesome info on the air filters. When I get the bike running on all cylinders I will take it for a short ride without the filters on. I will either buy those filters or use one of the fixes you guys suggested.

Thanks a ton guys, I will report back after the weekend or sooner.

[Larrym]

I took the cover off last night and looked at the wires gave them a stretch and they seemed fine.

Umm....but did you do this whilst the engine wuz running? (O_o)

I do this while running but alls the poking/pulling ain't done wit my fingers. I use a crochet hook fOaR safety. (^_^)

Working theory is that iffin' the wire strands are making/breaking contact INSIDE the insulation where's you can't see? (O_o)

Yoinking the wires this way and that will cause the two cylinders affected by that wire to drop out/drop in. (O_O)

Suggestion- RETEST whilst RUNNING....... and do it CAREFULLY whilst the "questionable" Pod filters are removed. (_Oo)

AND iffin there's a hard failure of either ignition coil, P/U coil (or wires...)? (O_o)

RUN it and spray the exhaust pipes. If it's the left side coil then #1+#4 will be COLD. Right side coil then #2+#3 will be cold. AND on the opposite coils/cylinders that be working right they'll be Hot....EXTRA hot. （´＿｀）




Can you guy tell me which of the P/U wires runs the coil on the left side (the one that runs the 2 outside cylinders) of the bike?

NO! Not gonna do it. (￣ー￣)

1. Pulling the spark plug wires whilst the engine is running is a no-no. Aside from the likelihood of getting shocked and the corresponding warm/wet spot in yur underwear? (THAT'll learn ya....) These coils fire 2 (two) spark plugs at the same time so's you risk damaging the coil itself by pulling off even ONE of the high voltage leads while running. (︶︹︺)

2. Both P/U coils wire(s) is just as ANCIENT and been pulled/stretched equally. Do BOTH iffin' yur gonna have to replace even just one. (◕︿◕)



I was going to chase the wire up from the P/U coil to the main coil. I am thinking it is a wire problem to the coil or the main coil itself. This weekend I am also going to take the main coil off and check it as well. I do have a manual and will check the ohms on both sides.

That's gonna be fun. (^_^)

While yur at it this is a good time to twist/unscrew the spark plug caps from the high tension leads and get rid of any green CORROSION in the side that hooks to the high tension leads. ( ‾́ ◡ ‾́ )

(AND make sure they's actually screwed in all the ways which was the ONLY problem my special had when I bought it and the 3 owners befoaR me COULDN'T find/fix....)

Be warned... MOST folks at this point report back with Ohms readings within the repair manual's specs but they STILL get fixated on one or more of the ignition coils as the PROBLEM. They just don't trust a passive resistance check per the repair manual and even try dynamic function tests like pulling the plugs, laying them on the motor, cranking the engine, and looking fOaR sparks. (ಠ_ಠ)

DON'T!!! (⩺_⩹)

Iffin in yur case where you are accusing the left coil (1+4) of being the criminal? (O_o)

Swap the spark plug wires from 1+4 to 2+3 AND swap the Orange wire with the Gray/White wire. (Keeping the red/white wires where they originally are...) (^_^)

If you CAN (depending on the wire lengths and possibly unbolting the coil from the frame...) swap the 2+3 plug wires to 1+4. Otherwise just leave the gray/white wires unconnected but safely covered wit' electrical tape.

Iffin the SUSPECT coil is trully borked then the problem will X-fer as in 1+4 will now get hot and 2+3 will be cold. ヽ(゜～゜o)ノ

There's ways to test each ignition coil on the bench wit a battery, alligator clips, and using screwdrivers as the switch held up like you's holding a CROSS fending off a vampire but we're not there yet. ┐(‘～`)┌

[bikerphil]

The top P/U coil is cylinders 1+4, the bottom is 2+3.

This is the path of the harness starting at the TCI and ending at the P/U coils...

[DEEBS11]

Do not remove the pickup coils. You will not be able to just bolt them back in. They do not wire to the main coil. They wire to the ignition module who then sends grounding signals to the coils (the coils always have +12v when the key is on).

[Larrym]

Do not remove the pickup coils. You will not be able to just bolt them back in. They do not wire to the main coil. They wire to the ignition module who then sends grounding signals to the coils (the coils always have +12v when the key is on).

Very good and WISE advice, Deebs. (･‿･)

They wire to the ignition module who then sends grounding signals to the coils

Very important fact to know and use iffin' yur gonna do a functional test of the ignition coils on the bench or "in situ" (on the bike...).

I mean, you can make/break the circuit from the positive side of a GOOD ignition coil till the cows come home but NEVER get'em to make a spark. ( •_•)