Idle circuit running lean after mods Need advice

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  • DiverRay
    Moderator
    • Nov 2004
    • 7600
    • Star, IDAHO

    #16
    My question is did you do any "bump" of the compression on the engine? Read the beginning of LarryM's post about float levels. Now understand that high octane fuel burns MUCH SLOWER that low octane. The gas you have in the tank is fine for an 11:1 compression engine. These bikes are closer to 8.5:1, and the gas will not burn in a cycle. Drain the tank, put in regular grade gas, and see what happens before you go through a lot of work. As I stated earlier, if you CAN buy ethanol free gas, that is the best thing you can run in these bikes.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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    • gtem
      Truly XSive
      • May 2023
      • 151
      • Indianapolis

      #17
      Besides carbs (and putting pod filters always opens up a big old can of worms with CVs it seems), I was chasing an idle/pilot circuit "carb" issue that ended up being me accidentally running resistor type plugs in concert with resistor type wires. Once I swapped in non-resistor plugs (or I could have swapped wires/caps) things improved immensely.

      Have you tried out a Gunson Colortune to check the color of ignition at idle? Could help point you in the right direction, just a thought. You have my sympathy, several times I've spend *months* chasing issues on Mikuni BS CV type carbs, but just as many times a rebuild goes as planned and they work perfectly. I've certainly learned a lot. It's also been enough to convince me to keep a single carb Harley around for when I feel like just going for a ride instead of pulling my hair out
      Yamahas: 1979 XS1100F
      Past Yamahas: 1978 XS1100E, 1976 XS500C

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      • Fairlyodd45
        XSive
        • Aug 2023
        • 12
        • Escondido, CA

        #18
        Originally posted by DiverRay
        My question is did you do any "bump" of the compression on the engine? Read the beginning of LarryM's post about float levels. Now understand that high octane fuel burns MUCH SLOWER that low octane. The gas you have in the tank is fine for an 11:1 compression engine. These bikes are closer to 8.5:1, and the gas will not burn in a cycle. Drain the tank, put in regular grade gas, and see what happens before you go through a lot of work. As I stated earlier, if you CAN buy ethanol free gas, that is the best thing you can run in these bikes.
        The engine is bored 30 over so yes by quite a bit that's why I'm running the avgas mixture because 92 doesn't cut it and no Ethanol free fuel isn't available in my area.

        Comment

        • Fairlyodd45
          XSive
          • Aug 2023
          • 12
          • Escondido, CA

          #19
          Originally posted by gtem
          Besides carbs (and putting pod filters always opens up a big old can of worms with CVs it seems), I was chasing an idle/pilot circuit "carb" issue that ended up being me accidentally running resistor type plugs in concert with resistor type wires. Once I swapped in non-resistor plugs (or I could have swapped wires/caps) things improved immensely.

          Have you tried out a Gunson Colortune to check the color of ignition at idle? Could help point you in the right direction, just a thought. You have my sympathy, several times I've spend *months* chasing issues on Mikuni BS CV type carbs, but just as many times a rebuild goes as planned and they work perfectly. I've certainly learned a lot. It's also been enough to convince me to keep a single carb Harley around for when I feel like just going for a ride instead of pulling my hair out
          I'm running Dynatek coils with solid core wires and NGK Iridium plugs. This isn't my first rodeo with this particular model and I've had issues with these carbs before and ended up swapping them out with a set of BM34s from my KZ1000 project and they worked flawlessly. I do have a color tune and I am going to check the mixture again. I'd rather tune her on a dyno but the colortune will have to do for now.

          Comment

          • Larrym
            XS-XJ Guru
            • Oct 2008
            • 1294
            • Tucson

            #20
            Originally posted by Fairlyodd45
            I've considered setting up a jig such as this to check the fuel level in the bowls, but normally if the level is too high you would end up with fuel seeping out of the vent tees which in this case isn't happening.
            Ummm.....NoPe! (◕_ゝ ◕)

            I mean as far as fuel seeping outta the vent tees or even thru the carb bowl to body gasket so as to drip/run down the outside of the float bowlz. (≖ ‸ ≖ )

            Just lookey at the photos posted earlier. (ʘ‿ʘ)ノ

            EG: Level is too high in #3 and so's the fuel just splatters in/over thu the needle jet/emulsion tube hole when engine is running. (╯°□°)

            Imma sure you set the float heights correctly. But the point is that SO.... DID... I... and the fuel levels were at the levels shown in the photos. AND the engine ran similarly/like THIS-



            Only other thought I gots whiles we's all spitballin' here till you actually TEST the IRL fuel levels in the carb bowlz and see fOaR yurself where they be? (O_o)

            You sure you bought/installed the right TYPE of Idle jet(s)?

            Click image for larger version

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            Wut do the ones actually installed in the bike lookey like? The one on the right or the one on the left? ( ͝° ͜ʖ͡°)

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            • Fairlyodd45
              XSive
              • Aug 2023
              • 12
              • Escondido, CA

              #21
              Yep going to put something together this evening to do just that. Been working on replacing the entire braking system from front to back with all new calipers, slotted rotors, and braided lines and that has been one hell of a chore. Yes I am very sure I purchased the correct pilot jets for my set of BS34-II 2H7-00 and yes I did compare them to the stock pilot jets that were in the carbs to make sure the orifices were in the correct position. My bike sounds similar with the coughing and sputtering at idle when cold but she really takes off when the engine reaches running temperature and the idle sticks at 1500 to 2000 RPMs sure makes it interesting when you are trying to downshift and stop believe me, so she's parked until I get this issue sorted out because the bike is unsafe the drive in this condition. I'll let you know what's what when I get the jig set up and test the carbs. Thanks again.

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