My question is did you do any "bump" of the compression on the engine? Read the beginning of LarryM's post about float levels. Now understand that high octane fuel burns MUCH SLOWER that low octane. The gas you have in the tank is fine for an 11:1 compression engine. These bikes are closer to 8.5:1, and the gas will not burn in a cycle. Drain the tank, put in regular grade gas, and see what happens before you go through a lot of work. As I stated earlier, if you CAN buy ethanol free gas, that is the best thing you can run in these bikes.
Idle circuit running lean after mods Need advice
Collapse
X
-
Besides carbs (and putting pod filters always opens up a big old can of worms with CVs it seems), I was chasing an idle/pilot circuit "carb" issue that ended up being me accidentally running resistor type plugs in concert with resistor type wires. Once I swapped in non-resistor plugs (or I could have swapped wires/caps) things improved immensely.
Have you tried out a Gunson Colortune to check the color of ignition at idle? Could help point you in the right direction, just a thought. You have my sympathy, several times I've spend *months* chasing issues on Mikuni BS CV type carbs, but just as many times a rebuild goes as planned and they work perfectly. I've certainly learned a lot. It's also been enough to convince me to keep a single carb Harley around for when I feel like just going for a ride instead of pulling my hair outYamahas: 1979 XS1100F
Past Yamahas: 1978 XS1100E, 1976 XS500CComment
-
My question is did you do any "bump" of the compression on the engine? Read the beginning of LarryM's post about float levels. Now understand that high octane fuel burns MUCH SLOWER that low octane. The gas you have in the tank is fine for an 11:1 compression engine. These bikes are closer to 8.5:1, and the gas will not burn in a cycle. Drain the tank, put in regular grade gas, and see what happens before you go through a lot of work. As I stated earlier, if you CAN buy ethanol free gas, that is the best thing you can run in these bikes.Comment
-
Besides carbs (and putting pod filters always opens up a big old can of worms with CVs it seems), I was chasing an idle/pilot circuit "carb" issue that ended up being me accidentally running resistor type plugs in concert with resistor type wires. Once I swapped in non-resistor plugs (or I could have swapped wires/caps) things improved immensely.
Have you tried out a Gunson Colortune to check the color of ignition at idle? Could help point you in the right direction, just a thought. You have my sympathy, several times I've spend *months* chasing issues on Mikuni BS CV type carbs, but just as many times a rebuild goes as planned and they work perfectly. I've certainly learned a lot. It's also been enough to convince me to keep a single carb Harley around for when I feel like just going for a ride instead of pulling my hair out👍 1Comment
-
I mean as far as fuel seeping outta the vent tees or even thru the carb bowl to body gasket so as to drip/run down the outside of the float bowlz. (≖ ‸ ≖ )
Just lookey at the photos posted earlier. (ʘ‿ʘ)ノ
EG: Level is too high in #3 and so's the fuel just splatters in/over thu the needle jet/emulsion tube hole when engine is running. (╯°□°)
Imma sure you set the float heights correctly. But the point is that SO.... DID... I... and the fuel levels were at the levels shown in the photos. AND the engine ran similarly/like THIS-
Only other thought I gots whiles we's all spitballin' here till you actually TEST the IRL fuel levels in the carb bowlz and see fOaR yurself where they be? (O_o)
You sure you bought/installed the right TYPE of Idle jet(s)?
Wut do the ones actually installed in the bike lookey like? The one on the right or the one on the left? ( ͝° ͜ʖ͡°)Comment
-
Yep going to put something together this evening to do just that. Been working on replacing the entire braking system from front to back with all new calipers, slotted rotors, and braided lines and that has been one hell of a chore. Yes I am very sure I purchased the correct pilot jets for my set of BS34-II 2H7-00 and yes I did compare them to the stock pilot jets that were in the carbs to make sure the orifices were in the correct position. My bike sounds similar with the coughing and sputtering at idle when cold but she really takes off when the engine reaches running temperature and the idle sticks at 1500 to 2000 RPMs sure makes it interesting when you are trying to downshift and stop believe me, so she's parked until I get this issue sorted out because the bike is unsafe the drive in this condition. I'll let you know what's what when I get the jig set up and test the carbs. Thanks again.Comment
Comment