Shimmy
Collapse
X
-
There's a difference between static balance and dynamic balance. Static balance would be putting the tire and rim on a truing stand then using weights to balance it. Dynamic balance uses one of those newfangled machines that spins the tire up to speed and gives the operator the info they need to properly place the weights.
With all that said, I don't bother with either method and use this stuff instead, it doesn't work for squat when it comes to punctures but does a great job at dynamically balancing as you ride. A LOT of shops are using it these days instead of other balance methods and for about $20 per tire a DIY guy like me can easily not give it second thought.
https://ride-on.com/
Shinkos were not my choice, PO had them on... and they were brand new so figured might as well. Pumped the tires up to 38, still have the vibration. Fork pressure is 10 on each side... I noticed I get the same vibration on hard braking. I can see the fork flexing back and forth from front to back when I hit the front brake hard. Strange. No notchiness in the steering bearings, bars fall to the side as they should. Might be replacing wheel and steering bearings next though to try and figure this out.Comment
-
Ccitis - you're likely on top of this, but I'll just mention it anyway. Be sure your front axle clamp is tight to the base of the fork slider at the front and the gap is at the rear. This slight variation can really mess up your front end by throwing off your handling, possibly having and effect on gyroscopic precession at high speeds.1980 XS1100G (one owner-me)
1983 Kawasaki GPZ750 (Frankenbike)
1984 Honda VF750S V45
Owned - 1976 XS750D
Owned - 1972 Honda CB750
Owned - (unknown year) XS650
(+ too many Yammies/Hondas to mention)Comment
-
Ccitis - you're likely on top of this, but I'll just mention it anyway. Be sure your front axle clamp is tight to the base of the fork slider at the front and the gap is at the rear. This slight variation can really mess up your front end by throwing off your handling, possibly having and effect on gyroscopic precession at high speeds.Comment
-
I've used it on tube tires
What LenB wrote has merit. Take a look at where the fork clamp meets the axle. The front edge of the clamp should sit directly in contact with bottom of the fork leg, there should be a gap left on the rear side of that. The front nut gets tightened down first and the rear nut after that.1980 XS1100G
Intelligent people discuss ideas, average people discuss events, petty people discuss other people.Comment
-
I've used it on tube tires
What LenB wrote has merit. Take a look at where the fork clamp meets the axle. The front edge of the clamp should sit directly in contact with bottom of the fork leg, there should be a gap left on the rear side of that. The front nut gets tightened down first and the rear nut after that.1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors)
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.Comment
-
I've used it on tube tires
What LenB wrote has merit. Take a look at where the fork clamp meets the axle. The front edge of the clamp should sit directly in contact with bottom of the fork leg, there should be a gap left on the rear side of that. The front nut gets tightened down first and the rear nut after that.Comment
-
Comment
Comment