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  • #31
    And with new 1/4" Tygon fuel line, small zip ties can be used instead of clamps.
    2H7 (79) owned since '89
    3H3 owned since '06

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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    • #32
      There's plenty of alternatives to your worm gear type hose clamps, I've generally found these types at places that cater to small engine repair.

      Click image for larger version

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      Attached Files
      1980 XS1100G

      I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!

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      • #33
        Great thank you all!!

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        • #34
          BefOaR you actually cut the new Tygon lines to the length you wanna? (O_o)

          Make sure to take off the tank, turn it round 180 degrees (Backwurdz...), set it up on the frame where the seat usually goes, and see iffin you can still run the fuel lines frum the fuel Tees between the carbeez (the bottom ones...not the vent Tees at the top!) back up to the now reversed petcocks. (;☉_☉)

          THAT's how yur gonna have things set up if/when you try (fingers crossed...) to synchronize the carbs wit a set of gauges. (ʘ‿ʘ)

          O'course iffin you cut the lines too short yur not gonna be able to use the tank as a handy-dandy fuel source to do a synch this-a-way. (●´⌓`●)

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          • #35
            Note- (O_O)

            Iffin you feed the Left side fuel Tee from the Right side Petcock (and vice-versa...)? (O_o)

            Then mostily of the times you DO got enuf fuel line to flip the tank round and connect the lines when doing the carb synch. (^-^)

            Probly one of the reasons folks choose to "cross-feed" the petcocks/fuel Tees in the foist place.... (´ ᴗ`)

            HTH.... (◕_ゝ ◕)

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            • #36
              Woa...that's thinkin out of the box. Thank you! I was wondering how I was gonna get an IV bag. So a new question to run these lines I assume I don't need to remove the airbox to make room to work cause that looks like you have to take the carbs off. Also what are you guys using to carb sync? home made or I have to buy something? I do have a vacuum gauge but I don't think that works with the pulses of one cylinder. PO claims he cleaned & jetted (richened from factory) & synced but I did valve adjustment. They weren't far off but probably a good idea to do them..

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              • #37
                To run the Tygon lines to the lower fuel Tees? (O_o)

                Nope. I din't have to remove the carbs OaR the airbox. (^_^)

                Cuz of my MAN-HANDS I did have to use a pair of long needle nosed pliers to get down in there's to push the line on and to squeeze/unsqueeze the hose clamps similar to wut Lab3 pictured. ʚ(╹ڡ╹)ɞ

                Some folks prefer the expensive carb gauges wit' mercury and tubes...forgot wut they's called at the moment. ( ・_・)

                I own a set like these-



                Actually used/in use here-



                O'course iffin you don't wanna get all geared up wit' the gauges? (O_o)

                A good bench sync will do ya till you can drive it to a friends house who does gots gauges. ଘ(੭ºัᴗºั)━☆゚*:.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Larrym View Post
                  Some folks prefer the expensive carb gauges wit' mercury and tubes...forgot wut they's called at the moment. ( ・_・)
                  MAN-o-meter?
                  -Mike
                  _________
                  '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
                  '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
                  '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
                  '79 XS750SF 17k miles
                  '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
                  '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
                  '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

                  Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

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                  • #39
                    A set of 4 gauges is the way to go. BUT! you MUST make sure all 4 are reading the same before the sync. I have a vacuum hand pump I use with three 1/4" plastic "t"s made for irrigation. Hook all 4 meters together with the "t" and then pump to 20 on the gauge. There should be adjustments on each gauge so you can get all 4 exact. I do this every time I synd, just to make sure.
                    Photos show the 4 gauges connected to the hand pump, and how close they are. second photo shows my setup, and yes, that is an IV pole! Picked it up at a local auction for about $10.
                    Attached Files
                    Ray Matteis
                    KE6NHG
                    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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                    • #40
                      This is what I use. For years I used mercury sync tools which worked good but developed bubbles which lessened accuracy. I really like this tool. Very accurate and stabile.


                      Click image for larger version

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                      • #41
                        Thank you all!!!! Great advice!

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                        • #42
                          Quick question, why do you need four gauges? The way I've done balancing over the years is that you sync carb #1 with carb #2 then sync #3 with #4. After that you sync the two sides with each other, this only requires two gauges.

                          Of course in my case being a cheap bastard I use a home made manometer made with two empty juice bottles half full of fork oil.
                          1980 XS1100G

                          I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!

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                          • #43
                            I like your style LAB3.

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                            • #44
                              With four, you KNOW you have the carbs all pulling the same. Some of the older members will remember the difference when using the system. One of the Colorado rallies I carried a set with me to set up the carbs for a member. There was a big difference in how smooth the bike ran and pulled.
                              Ray Matteis
                              KE6NHG
                              XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                              XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Having a real tough time getting the stock lines with octopus laid out to fit. Would anyone have any pic of how they laid theirs out? Specifically where the tees are? Really crowded to get them to fit without kinks. I think I got it but curious how others have it.

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