Thanks Larry but how do you electrically isolate when the aluminum petcock body is in contact with the steel tank once the o ring is compressed?
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Actually.... (_Oo)
This is all possible due to the Yammy engineers design of the petcock itself. (^_^)
Iffin yur torquin the petcock base into the tank so much that it's squishing the O-ring FLAT and letting the aluminum petcock base make contact wit' the steel tank? (O_o)
Then YuR'a doin it WRONG. (︶︹︺)
The O-ring itself acts as the insulator. Genius, huh? ( ಠ‿<)
Other source of the unwanted "electrical continuity" is between the steel bolts/screws what go into the steel tank and the aluminum surface of the petcock base visible after the install. ヘ( ̄ー ̄)ノ
But the yammy engineers put in fibrous/rubber insulating washers there so it won't happen. (◕‿◕)
BUT iffin someone don't center the petcock base bolt holes wit' the allen bolts threading into the steel tank the unwanted mechanical/electical connection can be made. ┐(´~`)┌
Sounds difficult as solving a rubik's cube but the engineers made it as easy as they possibly could. ヘ( ̄ー ̄)ノ
Just assemble things wit' reasonable care and then test it with a meter afterwards. No continuity between the petcock base and the tank means ya got it right. (; ꒪ö꒪)Last edited by Larrym; 01-21-2025, 06:45 PM.
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Originally posted by Supersport396 View PostWell that clears up a lot for me! My fiber washers appear to be reusable. I don't know why they don't include them in the kits. Thank you so much and I like your way with words! Thank you and all the others for your good help!!!!
1980 XS1100G
I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!
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Originally posted by Supersport396 View PostWell that clears up a lot for me! My fiber washers appear to be reusable. I don't know why they don't include them in the kits. Thank you so much and I like your way with words! Thank you and all the others for your good help!!!!
Muh way wit wurdz? (O_o)
Just an attempt to show yur not dealin' with a ChatGPT Bot or some google AI who'd just scrape the internet fOaR the mostest popuplarized answer, re-arrange the wurdz, and then tell you what IT sez is the right thing to do wit poifect grammar and spelling. ໒( ⊡ _ ⊡ )७
Nope. Just another person somewheres with an XS1100 and the willingness to put my man-hands to use on a keyboard designed fOaR 8'th graders. (´._.`)
The opinions and competence of the persons on the other side of yur situation will vary wildly so use yur own brainz to make the final call, ok? (☉_ ☉)
I mean I might have sounded like I knowed my stuff on this matter.....(゜-゜)
But then again, my turn signals on my 79 Special don't auto-shut-off like they're s'posed to and I can't find the resevoir to fill with this stuff-
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New question....The prior owner put new fuel lines and some kind of small metal filters recently. He has the left petcock feeding the right carbs and vice versa. Also with no clamp on the carb end......not sure how you would get one on there anyway. According to the diagram, right should feed right. I don't see that that maters but please correct me if I'm wrong. So what kind of filters do you guys use and what fuel lines? Currently using Motion Pro lines. But he claims he replaced them only a thousand miles or so and to me they feel like they may be starting to very slightly harden compared to new Motion Pro line I bought.
Appreciate any suggestions!
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Been using tygon tubing for fuell lines on all my bikes and equipment for years.
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...3487&catid=864
See through plastic filters in 5/16" size have worked well for me on the Eleven
1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors)
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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Many of us use the small cone shaped filters, 1/4" barb size. These are small and fit in the confined space rather well. Best to run L to R and R to L, that way the line won't kink as easily.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.dsLast edited by bikerphil; 02-17-2025, 07:52 PM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Originally posted by Supersport396 View PostHe has the left petcock feeding the right carbs and vice versa. Also with no clamp on the carb end......not sure how you would get one on there anyway. According to the diagram, right should feed right. I don't see that that maters but please correct me if I'm wrong.
-Mike
_________
'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 44k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 17k miles
'85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles
Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65
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