Hello all.I have a 1980 G Model and am having trouble with the bike being really hard to start when cold.Once running it is fine.I have cleaned the carbs several times.The only thing I changed was to fit plastic floats in place of the original brass ones and am not sure what is the correct float height for these.DoI keep the brass float heights or set to the later plastic float heights?.Thanks for our input.
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Cold start problems are usually enrichment jet problems. Make sure you can squirt carb cleaner through the jet in the bottom of the float bowl. As far as float settings, go with the correct setting for the year of the carb, as some later bikes have earlier carbs on them.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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Originally posted by xssidecar1200 View PostHello all.I have a 1980 G Model and am having trouble with the bike being really hard to start when cold.Once running it is fine.I have cleaned the carbs several times.The only thing I changed was to fit plastic floats in place of the original brass ones and am not sure what is the correct float height for these.DoI keep the brass float heights or set to the later plastic float heights?.Thanks for our input.Last edited by cajun31; 12-17-2024, 09:13 PM.2 - 80 LGs bought one new
81 LH
02 FXSTB Nighttrain
22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
Jim
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Thanks everyone for your input.I fitted the plastic floats some years ago as my brass ones were bad and information at the time said that plastic floats would fit but float height was ambiguise.I have experimented with the heights but no difference.Have them set at 23mm and the bike runs very strongly when it's going.I bought the bike as a standard with no known changes although it had been reringed at some stage.I ended up having it bored and fitted a big bore kit back in 2013.The big bore didn't affect the starting and mixture is fine.This has been a developing problem over the last several months.
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Using the later plastic floats in the earlier carbs, it may be beneficial to set the running fuel levels accurately instead of trying to get it right via measuring height.1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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I've done plastic floats in early carbs with '82 Virago 920 viton tip needles and seats. A little bending needs to be done to the floats, but if done right, it's a good mod. I set the floats as you would on an '80 at 23mm.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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I agree with what others have said, first thing I'd check is that the choke/enrichment circuit is clear, particularly those small passages in the float bowls (visually confirming carb cleaner flows through). Brass floats on an '80 G from the factory doesn't sound right to me either.Yamahas: 1979 XS1100F
Past Yamahas: 1978 XS1100E, 1976 XS500C
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The finding of brass floats in the late carbs has been reported, coming from the factory that way. Probably the very early production models had them.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Originally posted by xssidecar1200 View PostThanks everyone for your input.I fitted the plastic floats some years ago as my brass ones were bad and information at the time said that plastic floats would fit but float height was ambiguise.I have experimented with the heights but no difference.Have them set at 23mm and the bike runs very strongly when it's going.I bought the bike as a standard with no known changes although it had been reringed at some stage.I ended up having it bored and fitted a big bore kit back in 2013.The big bore didn't affect the starting and mixture is fine.This has been a developing problem over the last several months.
What kind of gas are you running in the bike? Do you ride the bike frequently or does it sit for periods of time. Ethanol in our fuels today are very detrimental to the carbs. Doesn't take Ethanol long to do it's damage either. You stated you have cleaned the carbs. To what extent? I let my bikes sit too long a couple of years ago and ended up having to completely disassemble the carbs on one of them to get the bike running right again. It started okay but had absolutely no mid range or top end. Would just ride down the road stuttering. Ended up being crud had formed inside the carbs and jets. Until I gave everything a bath in my Berryman's and my ultrasound did the bike start running right again.
I also resynched the carbs which also helped. Which brings me to the question of when was the last time you did that?2 - 80 LGs bought one new
81 LH
02 FXSTB Nighttrain
22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
Jim
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I use Berrymans chem tool cleaner in the 1 gallon pail available at most auto parts places. You can buy the professional version but its in 5 gallon buckets. The 1 gallon metal pail is good. I'm really anal about the carbs and taking them apart. I look at every passage with a magnifying loop and very bright flashlight. That way you can see vwhere the gas flows. I also check my float height with a ruler that is marked just for the float height. I also use an air compressor to blow off my parts after I wipe them. Also I use a magnifying loop to examine all my parts expecially the Viton tips on the float needles.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed
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