Another Charging problem

[Larrym]

Easy way to check that would be to run VOM leads from one of the black wire terminals on the R/R to it's casing, there should be continuity if the casing is also grounded

Yup. Iffin it's a "shared" ground. ヾ(＾-＾)ノ

But if it's a seperate ground running somewheres at the bottom end of a diode "bridge" or regulator Q1/Q2 circuit? (´-ι_-｀)

Might...just might find the case has some measurable voltage on it when engine is running and the case is "floating" cuz it isn't grounded.
(´_ゝ`)

That's the kinda problems we get when we don't know wut's actually inside the black boxes. Gotta rely on the repair manual's measure here fOar this and lookey there fOar that. ┐(´д`)┌

[DEEBS11]

Deebs11, zero volts at the black wire. Also the red wire feeds directly from battery positive through a fuse which is good. I get 12+ volts there. The main switch circuit in your diagram is not how my bike is wired. The green and black wire are a closed loop at the field coil.

And do you measure about 1 volt between the black and green wire of the closed loop (field coil) with the ignition switch on?

[DEEBS11]

Deebs11, zero volts at the black wire. Also the red wire feeds directly from battery positive through a fuse which is good. I get 12+ volts there. The main switch circuit in your diagram is not how my bike is wired. The green and black wire are a closed loop at the field coil.

Did you measure this in this exact spot of the harness? It's very important. With the black lead of the meter on the neutral of the battery.

[Radioguylogs]

Did you measure this in this exact spot of the harness? It's very important. With the black lead of the meter on the neutral of the battery.

That's what I was getting at in post #16.

[Steverk]

Did you measure this in this exact spot of the harness? It's very important. With the black lead of the meter on the neutral of the battery.

yes sir, I did. Zero volts. also zero volts across green and black with ignition on.

I am beginning to wonder if my new R/R from Ricks is bad.

Also for others, I also did ground the R/R body on the outside chance there may something to that theory-- not difference.

[Steverk]

With having a schematic for the R/R, I am curious where the power source is that energizes the green wire for the field coil. If it come from the red wire on the R/R, then it would suggest that there is an internal problem with the R/R. If it comes from elsewhere, I can't for the life of me understand where it would come from other than one of the white wires, which I cannot see how that would be possible based on the schematics in the manual.

[Radioguylogs]

In the schematics posted by Deebs, it seems apparent the wire harness supplies 12V to the black field coil wire from the IGN switch (not from the voltage regulator).

It also appears the voltage regulator modulates it's output by controlling the current flow to the field coil by varying the voltage on the green wire.

That's what I see.

Therefore, the problem seems to be the bike's wire harness is not supplying 12V to the field coil black wire?

[DEEBS11]

You found the problem when you found zero volts between the black wire of the field coil and the neutral ground of the battery. There has to be 12 volts there to start. You have no power to the coil when you turn on the key. That is your only problem (so far). Your regulator is not the issue.

[Steverk]

Deebs, I totally understand your diagram and what you are saying, however this is what I have. My Clymers manual shows switched power to the R/R via a tan wire, and believe me I wish it were there! I am 99.999% sure my harness was original when I started working on it. This is also how it was wired when the charging system was working when I fired it up last year.

[DEEBS11]

No offence, but the circuit as drawn could never work. This is how it should be wired. You are either missing the 12V connection or the circuit is drawn incorrectly.

[DEEBS11]

From Clymer and also color transferred to schematic.

[Steverk]

GASP!!
I just thought of something. One thing I did do between last year and this year was rewrap the wire loom after going through the entire wiring harness. Is is possible that a tan wire from the main switch got broken or disconnected from a splice or connection somewhere in the field coil harness? I can't see any apparent connection where that was the case as the harness from the field coil plugs directly into the regulator. The diode goes the the relay and another to the tach (not shown).

If this is a case of a missing wire, where does it make its connection?

[Steverk]

For clarification, I see where the switched wire connects in the schematic, but where on the bike is that connection physically made?

And Deebs you're right my schematic doesn't make sense or work, so no offense taken.

[DEEBS11]

Steve, I think you are getting closer to figuring this out.

[Larrym]

where on the bike is that connection physically made?

Per my experience the wires frum the ignition switch connector plug and mostly everything else? ﾍ(￣ー￣)ﾉ

Ends up in a spaghetti tangle inside the headlight bucket. (_Oo)