Another Charging problem

[Radioguylogs]

It would be helpful to know the voltage between the black wire and ground.

[Steverk]

Update, I purchased a new regulator from Rick’s electronics. Plugged it in, no change. I did try grounding the green wire from the field coil to ground-no change. One thing I have noticed from each regulator I have tried is that I am get no voltage reading between the green and black field coil, whereas the manual states I should have less than 1.8 v with the key on and 9-11volts with the bike running. I get nothing.
Field coil tests at 3.4ohms
Stator tests at .4ohms on each leg.

I have done continuity tests also to test for shorts and opens- all is good.

[DiverRay]

OK, not sure if this was said before but check ALL ground wires and connections. Clean ALL connectors, clean ALL ground points and use de-oxit or no-ox at the connection of wire to frame or engine. About two house to do the bike and you them KNOW you have good grounds with close to zero ohms between the neg terminal on the battery and the engine.

[DEEBS11]

Also, I had read this is non-stock wiring. I think there is an error in the wires. You need that 1.8V to energize the field coil. Check that part of your harness.

[DEEBS11]

It looks like you have no positive 12v going to the field coil. The regulator takes care of the grounding of that device. Do NOT short any wires to ground. You can easily blow that brand new regulator.

[DEEBS11]

Check this wire to the field coil. It should have 12V+ when the key is turned on.

[Steverk]

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I am certain all my grounds are solid. I have all tested each wire passing through every relevant connector related to the charging system- all good. The bike has been modified but the wiring harness has not been modified.
Deebs11, I have been careful not to short out probes when testing. I am a little confused about the highlighted trace on the last diagram you posted. It shows power available to the field coil from the main switch. My Clymer manual also shows this (via a tan wire) but this is not how it is wired. Below is my new rectifier ( identical wiring as the old one), and as you can see it is a 7 wire arrangement not the nine wire your diagram shows. In my earlier post I mentioned that last year the bike ran fine and was charging.
I have just assumed that there was a design change with the charging system that negated the additional wires. In my set up, I get 12volts of power via the red wire with and without the key on. So I have also assumed that the regulator is design to energize the green wire internally through the regulator circuit in a dynamic delivery based on rpm’s.

[DEEBS11]

The missing black wire is nothing to worry about. It was a ground that is now done internally. We need to establish that your field coil is getting 12v+. You need to measure this spot in this exact way when the key is on. Attach your meter black negative lead to the battery ground and use the red positive lead to test this exact spot in the harness.

[Larrym]

Ummm....(╯•﹏•╰)

Iffin imma seein wut I thimk I'm seein in this photo? (*ﾟｰﾟ)ゞ

The regulator/rectifier is unsecured to the bike. Technical term is "Das-Floppin". (´～｀ヾ)

As the OEM has 2 (two) ground wires out of the 9 (nine) provided, and yur aftermarket gots 7 (seven)? （´＿｀）

It seems like the assy you gots needs to be mounted securely to the frame fOaR both a mechanical AND an electrical connection. ( 　ﾟ ,_ゝﾟ)

No connection, no electron flow, so no wurky. (ｏ´_｀ｏ)

[DEEBS11]

Ummm....(╯•﹏•╰)

Iffin imma seein wut I thimk I'm seein in this photo? (*ﾟｰﾟ)ゞ

The regulator/rectifier is unsecured to the bike. Technical term is "Das-Floppin". (´～｀ヾ)

As the OEM has 2 (two) ground wires out of the 9 (nine) provided, and yur aftermarket gots 7 (seven)? （´＿｀）

It seems like the assy you gots needs to be mounted securely to the frame fOaR both a mechanical AND an electrical connection. ( 　ﾟ ,_ゝﾟ)

No connection, no electron flow, so no wurky. (ｏ´_｀ｏ)

Larry, the ground is there. It's now internal. Here is a diagram. Before (old style) and after (new style).

[Larrym]

Imma still seein' a MATH problem, Deebs11. (◔ヘ◔)

Original/old style still gots 9 wires and the new style shows 8 wires per yur delightful diagram(s). (⊙_☉)

But the real wurld rectifier/regulator (per the photo...) still only shows 7 wires. (● . ◉)

And only one black on the real wurld photo. Where's in yur new style there's......one....two......Yep. Two black wires. ( ⚆ _ ⚆ )

I can get out muh crayons....again, iffin that'd help. ヽ(•‿•)ノ

[DEEBS11]

7 wires. The other wire is "free" not used.

[Steverk]

Deebs11, zero volts at the black wire. Also the red wire feeds directly from battery positive through a fuse which is good. I get 12+ volts there. The main switch circuit in your diagram is not how my bike is wired. The green and black wire are a closed loop at the field coil.

[Larrym]

Deebs11, yur the diagram King. \(^_^)/

My mistake? Lookey here-


Though... I still wunder if the unit gots to be mounted fOaR electrical porposes. (ﾟ ヘﾟ)

[LAB3]

Though... I still wunder if the unit gots to be mounted fOaR electrical porposes. (ﾟ ヘﾟ)

Easy way to check that would be to run VOM leads from one of the black wire terminals on the R/R to it's casing, there should be continuity if the casing is also grounded