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fitting airbox onto carb bank

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  • #16
    I'm not a carb guy. Sure, I can remove them, clean them and reinstall but other than setting the idle circuits and balancing that's it. I've never taken on the task of installing pods and rejetting because it seems to be easier to work with stock parts and use the stock air box than entertaining the idea of having to fiddle with the carbs several more times to get the bike running right.

    There may be a time when I jump in and give it a try but the looks and performance of the stock setup is just fine for me. Don't get me wrong, I love to fiddle with my bike but when I decide "I'll tackle those carbs on Saturday" I'd prefer to be riding on Sunday, not some other future Sunday.
    1980 XS1100G

    These aren't my words, I just arrange them

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    • #17
      My rejetting was done by a shop and have help from people that deal with carbs and do jetting changes. I can take off and install my carbs in maybe 10 minutes. Pods are not for everyone, but they work for me. When the bike was 1st done, the airnbox was removed and I never saw it again.
      1980 XS1100 SG
      Inline fuel filters
      New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
      160 mph speedometer mod
      Kerker Exhaust
      xschop K & N air filter setup
      Dynojet Recalibration kit
      1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
      1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

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      • #18
        I'm lucky enough to have pliable boots on my airbox, but in the past when I've run into this, I've had good luck doing a fairly brief soak of the rubber boots in a 3:1 mixture of denatured alcohol and wintergreen oil. The latter can be found for relatively cheap in bulk at farm supply stores (Tractor Supply for example). The important part is to not overdo it, 24hrs at a time, for no more than say 72hrs otherwise it's possible for the rubber to get too soft and expanded.
        Yamahas: 1978 XS1100E, XS500C
        Other bikes: 2000 Kawasaki Voyager XII

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