help with valve shims.

[roger]

i won't to make sure im doing my valve clearance right. my # 4 exhust clearance is .152 my existing shim is 2.80 my goal clearance is 23 what shim should i use. thanks

[cajun31]

i won't to make sure im doing my valve clearance right. my # 4 exhust clearance is .152 my existing shim is 2.80 my goal clearance is 23 what shim should i use. thanks

download the manual here Ringler.us | My Bike. You need to follow the table suggestions on doing your shims. The manual will walk you through the process.

[bikerphil]

A 275 shim would put you at .21, the low end of the range.
A 270 shim would put you at .25. the high end of the range (better choice)

Sometimes it is not possible to get to the center of the range.

[cajun31]

The reason I keep posting this is because you will need the manual if you keep the bike. Those clearances need to be checked on every cylinder. To do the job right you need to purchase a set of 29mm shims and the valve shim tool. You may be able to swap shims around as you proceed but the key is, unless you remove the cams from the bike you have to have a shim in place as you rotate the crank, the reason for the shim kit. Most of the repair manuals that you purchase from Yamaha always started with the 78E basic manual and just added sections and addendums for the specific year model and relabeled the manual and sold it for different year models. The manual I directed you to will have all the basic information in it and the section on doing the valve clearance checks is very thorough and straightforward.

[roger]

The reason I keep posting this is because you will need the manual if you keep the bike. Those clearances need to be checked on every cylinder. To do the job right you need to purchase a set of 29mm shims and the valve shim tool. You may be able to swap shims around as you proceed but the key is, unless you remove the cams from the bike you have to have a shim in place as you rotate the crank, the reason for the shim kit. Most of the repair manuals that you purchase from Yamaha always started with the 78E basic manual and just added sections and addendums for the specific year model and relabeled the manual and sold it for different year models. The manual I directed you to will have all the basic information in it and the section on doing the valve clearance checks is very thorough and straightforward.

got my valve tool today and im going to do all cyl. I was pretty sure i was figuring it right I just wanted to make sure before i ordered the shims. mikes xs looks like a good place to get them.

[roger]

what will cause the valve lifter to be hard to turn. when i was lining up the gap to get the shim out of # 1 intake i could not get it to turn, i kept messing with it until i got it to turn but its harder than the rest of them. will that be a problem.

[Radioguylogs]

I assmue you turned the cam (with the tool removed) to get maximum clearance between the cam lobe and the shim. If yes, then is it possible that valve has no cam-to-shim clearance at all?

[roger]

I assmue you turned the cam (with the tool removed) to get maximum clearance between the cam lobe and the shim. If yes, then is it possible that valve has no cam-to-shim clearance at all?

no its got .102 clearance

[bikerphil]

I wouldn't worry too much, the shim bucket should loosen up with some use. I've had this happen before.

[DEEBS11]

what will cause the valve lifter to be hard to turn. when i was lining up the gap to get the shim out of # 1 intake i could not get it to turn, i kept messing with it until i got it to turn but its harder than the rest of them. will that be a problem.

The tool could be rubbing because it does not have enough clearance. Is it a Motion Pro tool?

[Radioguylogs]

Deebs: I'm a little rusty becasue I haven't done a valve adjustment in a while, but I think you want to rotate the lifter to postion the shim removal slot before you install the tool?

[DEEBS11]

Good question Mike and I should clarify. You roll the motor forward until the cam lobe pushes down on the shim/bucket. This lowers the shim/bucket in the hole so that you can install the tool. It is fastened in place with one M6 cap screw that is provided with the tool. If installed correctly, the lower tip of the tool holds the bucket down in the lowered position.

You must now roll the motor back slightly until the cam lobe is pointing away from the shim allowing you to remove and replace the shim. If the tool has too much "meat" in the area that I highlighted in red it will actually touch the cam.

If the tightened tool touches the cam because it too thick in the area I pointed out in red and you are trying to turn the motor, you will experience a drag much like Roger described. It could even be damaging. However, it was never established if the tool was actually in place during rotating the motor. It's just a possibility. The Motion Pro tool can be out of spec. Mine was junk and I tossed it.

[DEEBS11]

https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...-removal-xs11f

[DEEBS11]

Mike, looking back at the topic I just posted, I ended up getting the quality tool that you mentioned in post #7.

[DEEBS11]

I think he was talking about turning the lifter to get to the slot. Not turning the cam.