I have been having intermittent turn signal issues during riding. For the most part the signals work ok manually. They don't seem to shut off automatically any more. Sometimes they won't activate at all when it gets hot out (The enemy of electronics-heat). What conditions have to be met in order for the signals to turn themselves off? I know there is a speed sensor in the speedometer that tells the module if the bike is moving or not. Do you turn on the signal before you stop or after you stop? How do you service the speed sensor in the speedometer?
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The speedo has a glass reed switch inside it. A magnet pulses the reed switch as the speedometer moves. The pulses are sensed by the Turn Signal Cancellation Module.
The turn signal is supposed to turn off when the number of pulses corresponds to 490 feet or 10 seconds; whichever comes first..
-Mike
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'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 44k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 17k miles
'85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles
Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65
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If the signals are not working well in "manual mode" you need to start looking at your electrical not electronic system. Start by cleaning ALL ground wires and bolts/screws. I use "no-ox" or anti-seize on the connections to keep them working well. Don't forget about the ground wire from the rear turn signals! They bolt on to the inside of the mount and connect to the frame ground.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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All good tips. I had cleaned all connectors with Deoxit and cleaned all ground points on the bike when I built it but maybe I will have another look. All rear grounds on the signal lights are fresh and correct. One possible place of question is the old flasher from 1978 that sat in the swamp for years when I picked the bike up several years ago. Although I'm not sure I'm seeing it in this picture.
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Originally posted by speedlimit85 View PostMy signals are working correctly, they will stay on at a stop. After the blinker shuts off, I can turn it on again. Also can change direction anytime.
The first thing I would try to get the blinker to work at all is spray electronic stuff straight into the lever.
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Originally posted by DEEBS11 View PostThe bike today.
Bob's Bikes:
79SF, Military theme bike
Bob's websites:
https://projectxs11.wordpress.com
https://rucksackgrunt.com
Bob's Books:
"Project XS11"
"Rucksack Grunt"
"Jean's Heroic Journey"
Bob's Parts:
For Sale Here.
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Originally posted by DEEBS11 View PostHas anyone ever had a turn signal module fail? Or the reed switch in the speedometer?
Deebs, If you want to try swapping out the turn signal cancel unit, I can send you one. (or any other electrical part!)Bob's Bikes:
79SF, Military theme bike
Bob's websites:
https://projectxs11.wordpress.com
https://rucksackgrunt.com
Bob's Books:
"Project XS11"
"Rucksack Grunt"
"Jean's Heroic Journey"
Bob's Parts:
For Sale Here.
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OK, I did some homework and studied the schematic posted in the factory manual. The self cancel feature is all based on the yellow/green output from the circuit processor to the 3 prong flasher. That line cancels the flashing on the third leg of the flasher. The circuit senses movement on the white/green wire. When you are moving you get a little "square wave" pulse generated (low/ground) from the reed switch in the speedometer. The yellow/red simply tells the unit to start processing signals which is activated when you hit your turn signal switch. Brown wire is power that comes on with the key and then there is a ground. What I find interesting about the design of this circuit is when your flashers stop automatically your handlebar switch is still left in either the left or right position yes?
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If someone wanted to eliminate all this complication and go back to an old fashioned "heavy duty" 2 prong flasher this is how you do it. Unplug the auto device located under your seat above the battery where the frame and rear fender meet. Its a black rectangular box. Remove the 3 prong flasher. Install your new 2 prong flasher only using the brown and brown/white wire. Let the yellow/green wire stay unplugged. Now you have a reliable conventional flasher system. Be advised that this simple circuit does not tell you if a flasher bulb is burnt out. Check your bulbs periodically. Since there is no cutting you can go back to the auto system if you want. The flasher is about $15.00.
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