XS750 final drive swap

[Ranger_xs1100]

XS750 final drive swap.
I am trying to troubleshoot what may be a problem with the previous owners xs750 final drive swap and I want to redo it on my current SF project, but It appears that the modifications section describing the xs750 final drive swap may not have transferred in its complete form from the old XS11.com. And the link in that post that refers you to the tech tips section sends you back to the defunct site. Does anyone, (an admin or moderator) still have access to the data from the old site? and if so, is it possible revive that info to this .club site?
This is the post that I am referring to: Final Drive Transplant _ Kudos 2 XSChop! - XS11.club Forums
Does it seem incomplete to you?
I’ll post my questions about the procedural transplant in another post. Thanks.

[DiverRay]

I think what is missing is the 5/8" spacer measurement. I'm going to do another swap for my Special soon, so I'll let you know. The copper works well, as my first swap had about 30K on it with no problems.

[Ranger_xs1100]

I think what is missing is the 5/8" spacer measurement. I'm going to do another swap for my Special soon, so I'll let you know. The copper works well, as my first swap had about 30K on it with no problems.

Thanks Ray, The spacer is still on the shaft and I also have an extra spacer and o-ring that the previous owner gave me to use for a future swap. But I don't know what the o-ring is for or where it goes.

The problem I am having with the final drive is oil/grease being slung all over the rear wheel. So I'm guessing the drive is leaking at the seal. Since I have another xs750 drive, I want to just swap it in, rather than mess with the old one.

Could he have made an error when modifying the xs750 drive that would cause an oil leak like I have?

In the final drive swap mod instructions, which I believe are incomplete, they show the coupling gear, housing, and pinion removed but it's not clear why they removed it and what needs to be done with it.

The drive shaft clip #36 is missing. Would that have been removed for the swap mod?

[tplank]

Unfortunately you are correct ranger, that article is incomplete. I can remember when I was editing and trying to put that article here from the old site that part of it would get cut off and I was unable to fix it. Hopefully member Nezzer can chime in because I had messaged him about this specific article and problem. I do however have every picture saved from that original article from the old site if there is a way that I can get those to you I will. Let me know

[DiverRay]

Yes, the clip is removed and the "O" ring is used instead of it.
There is NO reason to disassemble the final drive. I never did on my swap. If I remember, you do need to pull the nut on the input shaft side to place a large washer with sealer for the two oil holes in the 750/850 final drive.
Oil leak is the seal! I've had seals go out on different final drives, not just the 750. It was an easy fix to just put in a new seal as you are working on it.

[Ranger_xs1100]

Good stuff.. Thanks guys. And good news...Since my last post, I discovered that I have the complete final drive swap modification post saved in my archives. The portion posted on here is only about 1/3 of the original article. I can send the PDF to anyone who wants it, or to someone who has the ability to post the complete article on this site. Or I could post it on my site, but I'm not sure that is legit and may be breaking copyright rules??.
Thanks again for your help.

[DiverRay]

Ranger, email it to me and I'll put it up here. ray(at)rjmatteis.com

[Ranger_xs1100]

Ranger, email it to me and I'll put it up here. ray(at)rjmatteis.com

Ray, PDF file emailed. Thanks.

[LAB3]

Ray, PDF file emailed. Thanks.

Grabbed a copy of that myself, good stuff. As a guy with none of the tools nessesary to make that spacer where would a guy look to have one made? It used to be you couldn't swing a dead cat without hitting machine shop, not so much anymore.

[bikerphil]

As a guy with none of the tools necessary to make that spacer

A hacksaw is all you should need. A vise would be helpful. Copper pipe fitting, cut it to 5/8". Easy enough. Wrap masking tape around the pipe evenly at 5/8" to ensure a straight cut.

[LAB3]

ensure a straight cut.

I'm a framer not a cabinet maker, straight cut has never been part of my vocabulary nor persona. Seriously though, I know it's simple but when it comes to tiny items a primate would have better luck.

[bikerphil]

When you're getting ready to do the swap, I'll make one up and send it to you, wherever you may be.

[LAB3]

Appreciate the offer! I'm going to be back in Michigan in a couple of weeks and have some loosely laid plans to sit in the same spot for a year or so and probably won't do the swap unless that happens first.

It may come down to it where I buy a rim too and go dual sport tire wise. I'm in the vicinity of the tail of the dragon right now and although I've loved running the twisties I'd be happier running forest service roads. Took my bags and trunk off last week to run the dragon and not having to haul all the gear and a trailer would make that feasible tire wear wise.

[DiverRay]

You can make a strait cut with a pipe cutter. If you don't have one a local plumber should have one. Just don't ask the young plumbers, they only know PEX, and that's NOT real plumbing in my book!

[LAB3]

You can make a strait cut with a pipe cutter. If you don't have one a local plumber should have one. Just don't ask the young plumbers, they only know PEX, and that's NOT real plumbing in my book!

Great point, you see those sitting around quite often at resale shops.