oil on the good foot

[speedlimit85]

I don't see room for tape.

[speedlimit85]

https://www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-oil-shaft-seal-32-x-48-x-8mm-single-lip-price-for-1-pc/

I will install this one.

It is only leaking from the inside edge and should be fixable...i hope

[DEEBS11]

I was going to try to make a cone out of tape and after the seal is seated, pull it out. I think the leak after many miles of heat and petroleum may have something to do with the rubber itself. Could be Chinese.

[speedlimit85]

yea..there was a sliver of metal from edge of speedy sleeve may have cut the seal.

no way to see if oil got under the sleeve.

no room for tape to prevent cutting seal.

I plan to sand the edge of sleeve to make a smooth edge for installing seal.

This repair was working for thousands of miles, but it should last longer.

[DEEBS11]

Guess what. Mine is too. It's small at the moment. I put a folded up Pig Mat up inside the cover and I change this tampon before each long ride. It's rideable but perhaps a different seal would work. Single lip? High temp? Split the cases and put the OEM part in? At this point I am planning on changing it once a year as regular maintenance (if I see a leak that is).

[Radioguylogs]

Dang....you've spent every effort to cure this leak.

[speedlimit85]

well after 10,000 mi leaking again

[bikerphil]

For sure, that's a pretty fancy set, I just used a block of wood to tap it in flush.

[DEEBS11]

Thanks Phil, valuable info as usual. I did buy two seals just in case. I have this driver set which will push the seal in flush. Great tool to have for seals and bearings.

[bikerphil]

Well, removing the rotor is not the difficult part. On the ALT side, the top and bottom case depths are different. If not done carefully, the seal will go in too far on the bottom half and sit cockeyed, and there is no way of pulling it back AFAIK without ruining it. It needs to be tapped in just far enough stopping flush with the outer lip of the case. I'm glad I had two seals the first time I did this because I ruined the first one.

[DEEBS11]

Yes, the level of difficulty will be higher because of the rotor. Luckily I have had it out a while back when I changed motors and re-gasketed the cover. The part that I do not look forward to is disconnecting the entire sidecar so I can get at the cover. I did buy the seal to have it ready on the shelf along with another new gasket. I will post if it happens.

[bikerphil]

Yep, DEEBS, and thank you for adding those photos.

Wait till one day when you need to change the ALT side, you'll be in for a surprise.

[DEEBS11]

The new seal installed. I like to use copper RTV. Let it set up for 24 hours and took it for a good 50 mile ride. No leaks so far. Thank you to all (especially Phil) for the good info.

[DEEBS11]

Here you can see the lip on the old seal and the new seal with its conventional flat design.

[DEEBS11]

I started by piercing the rubber covered metal portion of the seal. Only drill through the seal with the lightest of pressure so the bit does not hit the soft aluminum case which is only millimeters away. Start to carefully remove as much rubber as possible using an Xacto razor. Then pull out enough metal to grab on a good size chunk with Vice-Grips. I used a large seal puller tool to fully remove it from the case. Remember - the seal was not to be removed in this way. It was designed to be removed by splitting the cases so it needs an considerable amount of force that could easily damage something.