Valve shim removal XS11F

[BBQRider]

So I'm having a bit of a time getting the "valve shim tool" to do its job. In fact I ordered a second one that has what seems to be more appropriate hole locations for a better alignment. Still no luck. Grrrr. Unless I'm missing something, I just can't see how to line it up properly with the bucket so that it will stay depressed. I will say this is my first attempt at valve shim adjustment so I'm sure my lack of experience is a big factor. It sure seems like it should be straight forward but after searching through the site maybe thats not always the case? So Ive been looking over the thread that crazy steve posted where the cams are removed to change the shims. I'm contemplating this procedure but it scares me a bit. Obviously I don't want to screw things up on reassembly. Is this as straight forward as it seems or can it be a tricky task to perform with absolute success? Any words of wisdom/pointers or encouragement would be strongly welcomed. Please???

[DiverRay]

It is a bit hard the first time. Some people never do get the tool to work, and others like me use it with no problems.
1. There is a small notch on the shim bucket. Turn the bucket when there is NO PRESSURE on it so the notch is facing the spark plug.
2. SLOWLY rotate the engine so the cam lobe pushes down on the bucket. For the exhaust you may have to turn the engine backwards. You will need the tip of the lobe pushing the bucket all the way down.
3. At this point, install the tool. You may need to push it towards the cam so it will engage the bucket.
4. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction of the tool to take the cam pressure off the bucket.
6. With a small flat screw driver or pick, slide it under the shim at the notch and try to lift just a bit.
7. Now use a magnet to try and catch the edge of the shim, and pull it out.
To install the new shim:
1. oil the shim lightly and slide it into the bucket.
2. Slowly turn the engine so the cam lobe presses the valve fully. BE VERY CAREFUL as you will brake the head if the cam lobe pushes on the tool.
3. Unbolt and remove the tool.
4. rotate the engine in the proper direction about two or three times and verify your valve clearance.

[bikerphil]

I had to grind the tool so it would get close enough to the shim bucket. I also enlarged the holes slightly.

[2WheelFun]

I also ground like shown for cam clearance. Instead of enlarging the holes I took a bit off the back side opposite of where it's ground. You know you've got it right when you set it on the gasket surface and when you shift it around a bit it drops into place. Bench grinder is much quicker than a dremel.

[BBQRider]

Ok, I had read about grinding the tool down but I wasn’t quite sure which side and how much. Now I have something to go by. So tomorrow I’ll grind it down and follow diver rays steps. Thanks so much for the input guys. I’ll let you know how it goes.

[DiverRay]

Yeah, I didn't need to grind the tool I have, but I think it's about 18 years old. Probably pre China product.

[Radioguylogs]

BBQ Steve- I hope you can get the valve tool to work instead of removing the cams. One you get the knack of using the tool, it seems ridiculous to consider removing the cams.

I suspect most folks have the Motion Pro version of the valve tool. It appears to be a cast or forged part.

I have the original Yamaha tool I bought in 1980. It is a stamped piece with a thinner profile. That must why folks need to grind the Motion Pro version.

I notice you can buy a stamped version from the UK:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VALVE-SHIM-...gAAOSwDaBf3McO

Good luck.

[BBQRider]

Hey Mike, yeah the second tool I bought seems to be more like the one from the UK. I’m going to grind down the motion pro version today and see if I can get it to work. I may just need to work on my patience! I just don’t want to bugger anything up in the meantime.

[2WheelFun]

Pics of mine that was ground a few days ago. More clearance for cam and took some of the back side of the retainer tab and made more clearance for using the as cast holes.

[Rosche]

[Rosche]

The yellow one works, the other is crap
Rolf from Hamburg, Germany

[DiverRay]

Yeah, look at the tip of each. The yellow one has the tip the thickness of the tool, the other one it's too thin to catch the bucket!

[BBQRider]

Ok so after grinding down one of the tools and several attempts, still no luck. So I threw in the towel and tried the zip tie method. I know it seems a bit controversial but I tried to be super careful and in less than 10 minutes I had two of the three shims out of spec pulled, read and replaced. However the 3rd shim is really stuck in the bucket. I tried a strong pointed little pick and even tapped it a bit with a small hammer but I was worried I might cause damage to the valve? Any suggestions??

[Ranger_xs1100]

Hi BBQRider,
I am a big fan of the zip tie method and have used it numerous times on several different engines with great success and never had a problem. I’ve found that tapping with a small flat-blade screwdriver that will fit into the bucket slot works better than a tapping with a pointed pick when struggling to remove stuck shims. Tapping into the base of the slot at the bottom side of the shim should pop it up. Good luck.

[jetmechmarty]

I have a Motion Pro tool. It works great. It's unmodified. When I bought mine years ago, people were talking on here about grinding them.