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Valve shim removal XS11F

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  • #16
    I also have the Motion Pro tool and it works great.
    79 F full cruiser, stainless brake lines, spade fuses, Accel coils, modded air box w/larger velocity stacks, 750 FD.
    79 SF parts bike.

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    • #17
      Well in all fairness Marty, you are kind of a rocket scientist! However I did end up getting the three I needed out. Now to do the calculations and hunt down the shims. I will say that if the zip tie method has no adverse effects I would honestly recommend it. Found it incredibly easy to do. At least in comparison to using the tool. But as you can tell I'm certainly far from a seasoned pro at this. Does it boil down to preference or could actual harm be done using this method? At any rate, maybe some more insight could be beneficial to the next rookie down the line.
      1980 XS1100 SG
      1979 XS1100 F
      1982 XJ 650
      1983 XS 650

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      • #18
        Hey BBQ,
        Might try squirting some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the slot to help break down the oil and it's stiction/film tension and possibly float the shim up with hydraulic pressure?? Remember the eye protection. Also do you have a lost tool/nut fishing magnet? Also, do you have an old computer hard drive that is bad. The magnets inside of those things are super strong, J.A.T. !?
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

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        • #19
          By the way, thanks Ranger. Thats exactly what I did and after finding the perfect screwdriver it popped right out.
          1980 XS1100 SG
          1979 XS1100 F
          1982 XJ 650
          1983 XS 650

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          • #20
            You're welcome BBQRider, It's my pleasure... We are all here to learn from each other and to help each other.
            .
            Bob

            LG, Military theme.
            LH, With XJ maxim tank.
            1999 Ford Ranger, deceased.

            Links to my past and current projects:
            My Bike Projects: https://projectXS11.wordpress.com/
            My Book Project: https://rucksackgrunt.com/

            ...

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            • #21
              I thought I would have this little shim project buttoned up by now but i seem to have a slight issue. I replaced three intake shims to get them nicely in spec but when I changed out the two exhaust shims needing replacement something went awry. Originally they both had a clearance of .18 (spec is .21-.25) with 295 shims so I replaced them both with 290s. Then I checked the new clearance and they both jumped to .35. I even put the original 295 shim back in but it still read .35. Does it sound like I messed something up? Or with all the manipulation of things does it just need to run a bit for the valves to kinda settle back into position? Can a shim pop out if you have too much clearance when the engine is running? In other words, how much clearance is too much? Thanks in advance for any help.
              1980 XS1100 SG
              1979 XS1100 F
              1982 XJ 650
              1983 XS 650

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              • #22
                Your exhaust valves may not be closing all the way. may have some carbon on the seats or your holding tool put a burr on the bucket

                Bax
                80 SG

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                • #23
                  My guess is that it is carbon on the seats because I used the zip tie method? Will the carbon just blow out once it runs?
                  1980 XS1100 SG
                  1979 XS1100 F
                  1982 XJ 650
                  1983 XS 650

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    This paragraph I copied from a tutorial about shim removal using the zip tie method...

                    On engines with carbon buildup, it may be easy for the cable tie to
                    dislodge a tiny bit of carbon and when the cable tie is removed it may stop the valve from seating fully and
                    may thereafter give a false (larger) valve clearance reading which usually cannot be removed easily just by
                    turning the engine. In such cases do not rely on clearance measurements taken AFTER the valve was held
                    open in this manner, to recheck the clearances in such cases, rather give the engine a short run and check
                    the clearances the next day when the engine if fully cooled down.
                    2H7 (79)
                    3H3

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by BBQRider View Post
                      My guess is that it is carbon on the seats because I used the zip tie method? Will the carbon just blow out once it runs?
                      BBQRider Seems that bikerphil has beat me to it. Loose carbon on the valve seat would blow clean off after a short run. I wouldn't worry about you loosing a shim in this case and use your adjusted shim values not the originals.

                      ---Bax
                      80 SG

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                      • #26
                        Thanks guys. That is what I was hoping to hear. Now I can go ahead and get her buttoned back up. I'll follow up after as soon as I get her fired up. However part of the winter plan was to update the fuse block also. So I'll have to wait for that to be complete. At any rate thanks to all you guys for the input. I love that I never feel like I'm doing this alone.
                        1980 XS1100 SG
                        1979 XS1100 F
                        1982 XJ 650
                        1983 XS 650

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Hey BBQ, the first time I adjusted my shims(2000) was when I was doing my first rebuild/ big bore kit, had the head on the bench, both cams IN, and rotated 1 at a time not realizing that at least 1 valve was being opened by the other cam. I had a 0.25" gap and then realized that I had bent a valve, but thought I had bent it due to the open valve hitting/pushing against the BENCH, not the other cam/valve! This was back when it was easier to get new replacement valves. Replaced the bent one, then put the engine together, but then decided to do COMPRESSION test. Had 0 PSI on 1 cylinder! I had bent another valve just enough to not seat but had allowable gap size! Found the 2nd bent valve and finally realized how I had bent it, replaced, and back together and been running ever since!
                          T. C. Gresham
                          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                          History shows again and again,
                          How nature points out the folly of men!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Good grief TC, I hope thats not the case. If so, that sounds to be above my pay grade!
                            1980 XS1100 SG
                            1979 XS1100 F
                            1982 XJ 650
                            1983 XS 650

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