Misfiring

[Bonz]

What’s your screen name over there? I am BonzRexster. I seem to piss off some of the old guard especially KWICK.

[oldyam80sg]

pete11zrx-yes kind of hard to deal with Kwick sometimes-I spoke to him before on the phone and got quite a bit of parts from him but that being said he wont answer some messages I have sent him. Some old members I don't know if they left, sold their bikes and moved on I was not on the board for a long time.

[Bonz]

I did most of the CVK 40 carburetor development in a thread that went on for years. He has told me he won’t sell me anything from his business because doing the CVK40 and pods set up killed the sale of his overpriced set up for the same carbs with the airbox. He’s turned it into his personal business place and that is absolutely making guys runoff. They can’t post anything or any ideas that would affect his sale of, granted, a plethora of cool parts and accessories.

[oldyam80sg]

There is always Jason on there, Greg Couch and others that sell parts. Pretty bad when people think they have to control everything.

[oldyam80sg]

Misfiring-has anyone addressed the fact the vacuum caps get cracked and will make the bike act up? I know it might not be the problem here but worth looking at while you are at it.

[Bonz]

There is always Jason on there, Greg Couch and others that sell parts. Pretty bad when people think they have to control everything.

He has expanded a lot, those other guys are a drop in the bucket now and don’t do things nearly as much.

Anyway, back to the misfire. Looking forward to hear if the new used coils did the trick.

[Phare Est]

Alternator

Anyway, back to the misfire. Looking forward to hear if the new used coils did the trick.

Making progress... The new coils didn't quite resolve the issue (I think only one of my old coils was slowly dying). The bike was still quite difficult to start with the new coils, the engine was running rough (and was occasionally stalling) and that NEUTRAL light was still flickering. While the bike was running, I started to fiddle with the wires coming out of the alternator (where they run close to the exhaust). Lo and behold, the engine started to run smoothly and the NEUTRAL light stopped flickering! It has to be an alternator wire problem...

[Bonz]

Good find.

[Phare Est]

I have a spare stator, which I will install on the bike this weekend. I'll keep everyone updated.

[motoman]

Making progress... The new coils didn't quite resolve the issue (I think only one of my old coils was slowly dying). The bike was still quite difficult to start with the new coils, the engine was running rough (and was occasionally stalling) and that NEUTRAL light was still flickering. While the bike was running, I started to fiddle with the wires coming out of the alternator (where they run close to the exhaust). Lo and behold, the engine started to run smoothly and the NEUTRAL light stopped flickering! It has to be an alternator wire problem...

Sounds like the carbs were just havin' electrical issues....very common problem.

[Phare Est]

Sounds like the carbs were just havin' electrical issues....very common problem.

Hi motoman,

Forgive my ignorance, but how can the carbs have "electrical" issues?

I decided to swap both the stator and the field coil with spare ones. The same problems are persisting... The engine keeps misfiring and stalling and the NEUTRAL light either flickers or dies. I'll try replacing the REG/REC to see what happens. Could also be a TCI problem.

[motoman]

Just the infamous reference when one is having issues as in your bikes case Phare Est.

[Phare Est]

Ignition switch

Just the infamous reference when one is having issues as in your bikes case Phare Est.

🙂👍.

I checked my regulator with the bike running and it charges the battery as it should (tops off at 14 volts when the engine is revved).

When I turn the key to ON position, that NEUTRAL light either turns on, flickers or doesn't light up at all. Could the ignition switch by faulty?

[motoman]

For voltage being equal to initial batt.voltage at other critical locations, first turn key on THEN check batt. voltage. Next, unplug a coils primary leads, turn key back on and check voltage at that coil lead wire. Needs to be the same as voltage at battery was. If it's lower, I first would suspect internal contacts of STOP/RUN switch are cruddy and loosing full contact. That switch has to be removed, taken apart and cleaned. The whole internal contact assembly has to be clean. 'Looks clean' doesn't cut it. The STOP/RUN switch completes the electrical running circuit.

[skids]

There is something out there with neutral switch circuits and ignition. When it gets wet the ignition circuit can ground out in the splice that is in the skinny loom above the left cover. I have never seen the culprit that causes this. If I remember correctly, some people have rewired the neutral switch so that the light on the gage is always shining(?). I only bring this up because of the strange interaction you describe.