bleeding the front brake

[skids]

IMO any rattle can paint is crap..and will not really hold up to gasoline spills.....

You need a two- part paint that contains hardener. Talk to the automotive paint supplier. NOT ALL PAINTS ARE COMPATIBLE! If you spray over a lacquer paint with other types, it will be real trouble.

[skids]

this battery should be good for my bike, but the amazon database says it’s not good fit fir my bike (1100 79 special). I’ll save 50% over the local store, so Im hoping you guys can confirm it’s a good fit?
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Check into walmart. They will take your core as well.

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I called a mobile mechanic to come do the front brake. He said I need a new master cylinder. I said why it’s brand new? He said well because it doesnt work does it? I said get the hel out of my house.

I called a local garage that deals with vintage bikes. He said to make sure banjos had crushed washers on both sides. Ding! I remember only seeing 1 washer. So I found in my extra parts two brand new crushed washers and a new banjo. I did the finger pressure thing again, put on the new parts, and went back to bleeding. This guy told me if I dont see the reservoir go down when releaseing lever, MC was not working properly. I did see reservoir going down and he said I need to keep topping up until I use a quart/Liter! So I kept on pumping lever, holding it halfway down, crack open nipple, wait 5 seconds, close nipple, release lever slowly. At the nipple I have the mitivac connected to the nipple at pressure 15. when the reservoir got to 1/4 I would top it up. Lo and behold after topping up 8-10 reservoirs I started to feel pressure building up. He said go slowww and deliberate. And not to push the lever all the way in. I found that pushing the lever halfway, cracking open the nipple, then pushing the lever 3/4 of the way in made the fluid presure build up. I hope this helps any future blank slates.

In other news: something is draining my new AGM battery on the 1100. It was fully charged last night and this morning dead. Whyyyyyy has

pics https://postimg.cc/gallery/1c577cw4c/

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Reading up on draining battery to see what my problem is. I have the Geezer's Reg/Rect unit and blade fuses. Never had battery issues on this bike.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21093

Thread suggests doing some tests. I will do them later.

Motorcycle Gods are cruel. I was about to get on the 650 for a ride to test fron brake, but forgot that my clutch needs to be adjusted. So I was in gear trying to go but the bike was in neutral the whole time. cry

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Front brake finally bled!!! I was told by a mechanic to keep bleeding the reservoir until I went through about a quart/liter of brake fluid. I always gave up after 1 or 2 reservoirs were drained. I did about 8-10 reservoirs and finally started feeling the pressure build up. He also advised me not to squeeze the lever all the way. And go slowww. This really helped me keep faith in what I was doing. I never really saw bubbles coming out of the reservoir, just microscopic ones. So to anyone else frustrated by this process, I hope my experience helps.

As for battery drainage problems on my 1100, I cleaned all the electrical connectors I could find with contact cleaner, and with brass brush cleaned all bolt holes, and the battery did not drain after a ride yesterday. So another lesson learned.

Thanks for the tips, Happy riding

[DiverRay]

Glad you got it going!
To keep the battery problems away, put antiseize on all the ground locations. This will keep the steel from rusting for a long while, and so keep a good ground path for the charging circuit. You can also use it on the positive connection bolts, but be careful! It's a VERY GOOD conductor, and WILL cause a short if you get too much on.

[skids]

Front brake finally bled!!!

Finally! Glad it is coming together.