Electrical Components

[DiverRay]

Looking good!
The carbs are easy, sort of. You have the 4 into 1, how much of a baffle? what are you using for air filter?
As a rule, pod filters and 4 into 1 with baffle is about 3 steps up in main and 1 step up in pilot jet. Going from memory on the '79 carbs, 45 pilot and 120 mains. Mikuni parts ONLY!! anything else is probably off in the amount of fuel it flows, and they cannot be tuned!! This is what I had on my '79 with a Kirker and stock airbox that was drilled for airflow. 3phase knows how it ran.

[red bandit]

Stock 79 carbs were 42.5 pilots and 137.5 mains. So up one on the pilots would be 45 and 3 up on the mains would be 145.

[myac455]

Looking good!
The carbs are easy, sort of. You have the 4 into 1, how much of a baffle? what are you using for air filter?
As a rule, pod filters and 4 into 1 with baffle is about 3 steps up in main and 1 step up in pilot jet. Going from memory on the '79 carbs, 45 pilot and 120 mains. Mikuni parts ONLY!! anything else is probably off in the amount of fuel it flows, and they cannot be tuned!! This is what I had on my '79 with a Kirker and stock airbox that was drilled for airflow. 3phase knows how it ran.

Thanks for your reply, Ray
This would be easy if this thing had a 4 into 1.. LOL.
My idea with the tri-Y is to keep the light and mid range torque up , while using 3-4th gear, when cruising around.
4 into 1 's are designed primarily for WFO rpm's, the way I see it.

No pods.. Will be using some king of velocity stack with a mesh and foam filter cap. Not ideal, I know. I'm not much of a road warrior though. Mostly an hour out, an hour back, for me.
I'll be riding at anywhere from 2000 to 8000 ft. elevation. Never sea level.
Kinda need jet # 's in this range.
So where do we get genuine Mikuni jets?

[myac455]

Stock 79 carbs were 42.5 pilots and 137.5 mains. So up one on the pilots would be 45 and 3 up on the mains would be 145.

Thanks. I'll add to my notes.

[myac455]

Thanks for your reply, Ray
This would be easy if this thing had a 4 into 1.. LOL.
My idea with the tri-Y is to keep the light and mid range torque up , while using 3-4th gear, when cruising around.
4 into 1 's are designed primarily for WFO rpm's, the way I see it.

No pods.. Will be using some king of velocity stack with a mesh and foam filter cap. Not ideal, I know. I'm not much of a road warrior though. Mostly an hour out, an hour back, for me.
I'll be riding at anywhere from 2000 to 8000 ft. elevation. Never sea level.
Kinda need jet # 's in this range.
So where do we get genuine Mikuni jets?

Oh, the baffle. Yes, I fitted one that came with the meg /muffler. I probably won't be using it much though. We ARE in the Wild West here.

[3Phase]

It looks like you're already on your way to squared away.

I like the work you've done, it looks fantastic, I'm totally jealous.



I do have a few tips when you set the throttle plates on the carburetors:

Set #3 carburetor throttle plate first, it's the master and the others are slaved to it.

Use a strip of paper or fishing line instead of a bread tie or a wire to set the throttle plate gaps so you can't score the brass.
Close the plate until you feel resistance when you try to slide the paper/line.

I've seen too many carburetors that have a nifty little groove in one or more of the throttle plates.
It's not a simple job to get rid of the groove while keeping the correct edge on the plates and the plates square in the throttle body.

Just like doing a running carburetor synch, back off the master idle adjustment screw until you feel some resistance sliding the paper/line under the throttle plate for the #3 carburetor, then set the other three gaps.

Check the gaps again to make sure nothing moved and they should be ready to go.

[myac455]

It looks like you're already on your way to squared away.

I like the work you've done, it looks fantastic, I'm totally jealous.



I do have a few tips when you set the throttle plates on the carburetors:

Set #3 carburetor throttle plate first, it's the master and the others are slaved to it.

Use a strip of paper or fishing line instead of a bread tie or a wire to set the throttle plate gaps so you can't score the brass.
Close the plate until you feel resistance when you try to slide the paper/line.

I've seen too many carburetors that have a nifty little groove in one or more of the throttle plates.
It's not a simple job to get rid of the groove while keeping the correct edge on the plates and the plates square in the throttle body.

Just like doing a running carburetor synch, back off the master idle adjustment screw until you feel some resistance sliding the paper/line under the throttle plate for the #3 carburetor, then set the other three gaps.

Check the gaps again to make sure nothing moved and they should be ready to go.

I will do that, as you said. I did a quickie set up last year , before I fired it up.
I've got them all split apart now to fix the fuel T's.
Tell me..What does the jet or orifice @ 8 o'clock on the inlet do? You just leave it stock?

I saw where someone made a vacuum log tool out of PVC and some valves.Seemed simple enough. I'll probably make one for the fine tuning after I run this thing around for a little bit.

[3Phase]

Mark, the Pilot (low speed) air jet is at 8 o'clock.

It should be a 180, 185 Mikuni jet, it depends on who had their hands on it last and what they did.

[myac455]

Mark, the Pilot (low speed) air jet is at 8 o'clock.

It should be a 180, 185 Mikuni jet, it depends on who had their hands on it last and what they did.

Okay , no wonder I was confused.
The pilot AIR jet is in the inlet. That doesn't have to be changed, as long as it is a 180 or 185, correct?
Now, the pilot (fuel , I assume ) jet it under the screw head.
Also , the main jet needs to be changed...to? Care to make an educated guess for my application?

How about the needle. Start in the middle position? I assume it is but I have yet to invest in a pair of the world's longest, thinnest internal snap ring pliers.
Again, thanks for you help.

[skids]

Okay , no wonder I was confused.
The pilot AIR jet is in the inlet. That doesn't have to be changed, as long as it is a 180 or 185, correct?
Now, the pilot (fuel , I assume ) jet it under the screw head.
Also , the main jet needs to be changed...to? Care to make an educated guess for my application?

How about the needle. Start in the middle position? I assume it is but I have yet to invest in a pair of the world's longest, thinnest internal snap ring pliers.
Again, thanks for you help.

The pilot air jet should only be cleaned, not changed.
The clip for the jet needle can be pushed out of the slot rather than pulled. I have never had any luck with performance when changing it from the center slot, in fact I always returned it to center.

[skids]

P.S. Red Bandit already gave a suggestion for main jets, but this is really kind of a crap-shoot. I strongly suggest that you keep the pilots, needle clips, and float heights stock, and just dial-in the mains. Once you get that, you can play with the float heights. There are too many variables and you will be chasing your tail if you throw too many changes at it.

Most literature says start with the full throttle adjustments and work your way down.

Keep in mind that there are wrong types of pilot jets for Mic's.

[myac455]

P.S. Red Bandit already gave a suggestion for main jets, but this is really kind of a crap-shoot. I strongly suggest that you keep the pilots, needle clips, and float heights stock, and just dial-in the mains. Once you get that, you can play with the float heights. There are too many variables and you will be chasing your tail if you throw too many changes at it.

Most literature says start with the full throttle adjustments and work your way down.

Keep in mind that there are wrong types of pilot jets for Mic's.

Hi guys,
First question is..What do you suppose happened to my pictures? I can't see any. How about you guys?

Next thing.. the 145 jets didn't work at all . Plugs black. Went back to stock...Plugs black ..Went down two steps lean. Plugs are just starting to color. Although still way rich. Going to order two steps leaner, and one step on the pilots, just to have them..Think that's 127.5 and 40.
I put on new Honda 3 ohm coils with solid wires..No big help there.
The original end caps seem to be non- resistor. Is that correct?
Whatever the problem is, it's common to all cylinders. Seems to me, I have a header that's way over-scavenging. What else could it be?
Skids, I'll probably be riding up in your neck of the woods this Summer, so I need to clean these plugs way up before then.
Have you seen an effect be lowering the float level? How much we talking? Thanks

[motoman]

Hi guys,
First question is..What do you suppose happened to my pictures? I can't see any. How about you guys?

Next thing.. the 145 jets didn't work at all . Plugs black. Went back to stock...Plugs black ..Went down two steps lean. Plugs are just starting to color. Although still way rich. Going to order two steps leaner, and one step on the pilots, just to have them..Think that's 127.5 and 40.
I put on new Honda 3 ohm coils with solid wires..No big help there.
The original end caps seem to be non- resistor. Is that correct?
Whatever the problem is, it's common to all cylinders. Seems to me, I have a header that's way over-scavenging. What else could it be?
Skids, I'll probably be riding up in your neck of the woods this Summer, so I need to clean these plugs way up before then.
Have you seen an effect be lowering the float level? How much we talking? Thanks

Float levels lowering? If all four PRECISELY set stock height...all that's needed. If opting to lower, for whatever unknown reason, .012-.015 makes a huge difference of actual fuel levels in bowls...approx. 1-1.5mm.

[myac455]

Float levels lowering? If all four PRECISELY set stock height...all that's needed. If opting to lower, for whatever unknown reason, .012-.015 makes a huge difference of actual fuel levels in bowls...approx. 1-1.5mm.

It was unknown to me too..but I didn't bring it up here.
Thanks

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Mark,

First of all, if you used Photobucket, you photos are still there, just PB changed their service and don't provide off-site linking for free anymore. There is a PB plug in you can get with the Chrome browser that will still show the photos instead of just LINKS to PB, but if you use IE or FF, you only get the links.

Next, didn't reread this whole thread, so let's recap. I saw reference to the screws over the pilot jet towers, so we know you do have 79 carbs, not the bastardized 80 ones that sometimes uses the rubber pilot tower caps.

I saw your question about where to get genuine Mikuni jets, but no later comment on whether you DID or didn't get Mikuni for the PILOTS. IF you got any other brand, that will be the most common reason why you are getting black plugs. If your headers were scavenging too well, then you would be getting WHITE plugs due to too lean, but black plugs are too rich. You've got the 3 ohm coils....BTW did you BYPASS the Ballast resistor under the left side of the gas tank? If not, then your 3 ohm coils are only getting ~9 volts instead of the 12 they need and could also cause poor spark. Did you put on new plug caps or use the OEM ones?? IF oem, did you check them with Ohmeter to ensure they are within specs ~5 kohm, If much higher, they can also cause problems.

Aside from the Genuine Mikuni Pilot jets, did you check the choke/fuel enrichener plungers to make sure they were sealing while you had the carb rack apart?

You said you were using some Velocity stacks, how are they mounted to the carbs, is there any restriction of the inlet bell ports from a mounting lip?? The cheap EMGO cone filters were known to cause this and excessively rich as well, unable to get enough air flow to get past ~6k rpm.

Also, with the carbs, are the UPPER T's connected to OPEN AIR VENT TUBES, not capped or plugged, they need to be open to properly vent the carbs to maintain fuel height and float function. Also make sure you don't have FUEL going to those upper T's. The LOWER T fittings are the fuel inlets.

Just throwing these things out there to check.
T.C.

Hi guys,
First question is..What do you suppose happened to my pictures? I can't see any. How about you guys?

Next thing.. the 145 jets didn't work at all . Plugs black. Went back to stock...Plugs black ..Went down two steps lean. Plugs are just starting to color. Although still way rich. Going to order two steps leaner, and one step on the pilots, just to have them..Think that's 127.5 and 40.
I put on new Honda 3 ohm coils with solid wires..No big help there.
The original end caps seem to be non- resistor. Is that correct?
Whatever the problem is, it's common to all cylinders. Seems to me, I have a header that's way over-scavenging. What else could it be?
Skids, I'll probably be riding up in your neck of the woods this Summer, so I need to clean these plugs way up before then.
Have you seen an effect be lowering the float level? How much we talking? Thanks