Electrical Components

[myac455]

I think I could have changed beams with the switch on the bars. I bipassed my RLU's and never looked back. Of course I don't ride agressively at night (and some say ever).

Yeah, I might put in a two way switch

[myac455]

Running!

Well , not at the moment, but it was...after I flooded the stop floor with a stuck float. Luckily , it was # 4 ,so I didn't pull all the carbs. Couldn't see anything wrong with it, so I blew it all out and lowered the float a bit.
Of course, then I had to re-do the main fuse , jump out the kill switch, pull the starter button out and hook it to a good ground, splice a few wires, etc.
Then it fired right up . Sounds pretty good, even with the 4-2 baffled exhausts.
Oil light went right out, but the v.c. gasket was leaking from when I lubed the cams, pouring oil on the pipes.
I shot the pipes with my laser temp gauge and they were all equal.
Feel better about not buying a pig in a poke. I'll just clean and paint the engine for now, and tune it up...That is, until I get used to an 11 second bike.

[3Phase]

I think I could have changed beams with the switch on the bars. I bipassed my RLU's and never looked back. Of course I don't ride agressively at night (and some say ever).

Hijack Alert Man, I love Google Maps, a picture and a link are worth a decent novel.
There wasn't any time to flick the headlight switch and the red marker shows where I was; headed toward the dam, already leaned over into the corner at about DoD nominal when the high beam went out and the RLU kicked on the low beam. The road runs under the pines so I'll give you three guesses what was all over the road and the first two don't count.

It's probably not something myac455 is going to be doing with his chopper though so the RLU is completely optional:-

Bass Lake, Ca. Road 222/South Shore Road

Well , not at the moment, but it was...after I flooded the stop floor with a stuck float. Luckily , it was # 4 ,so I didn't pull all the carbs. Couldn't see anything wrong with it, so I blew it all out and lowered the float a bit.
Of course, then I had to re-do the main fuse , jump out the kill switch, pull the starter button out and hook it to a good ground, splice a few wires, etc.
Then it fired right up . Sounds pretty good, even with the 4-2 baffled exhausts.
Oil light went right out, but the v.c. gasket was leaking from when I lubed the cams, pouring oil on the pipes.
I shot the pipes with my laser temp gauge and they were all equal.
Feel better about not buying a pig in a poke. I'll just clean and paint the engine for now, and tune it up...That is, until I get used to an 11 second bike.

Err... you do have a fire extinguisher, right? Nice work getting the engine to run and check the pipes! I don't want to bring you down but try not to play with gasoline indoors if you can avoid it. Take the bike outside to see if the fuel system is working and keep the extinguisher handy until you can tell it's not going to puke fuel everywhere and 'splode.

Also, if you use compressed air to blow out the carburetors and you still have the stock brass floats in your '79 carburetors, the compressed air can compress the hollow floats and they instantly become expensive brass weights, not floats. When you try to run the engine, the floats don't work and gas will pour out of the carburetors, then you'll have to buy new floats even if you don't set the bike on fire.

Anyway, it sounds like you're having fun, just be careful!

[motoman]

+1 to above post! Too many of us here have had members here that lost their bike and in one case, even a lot of home due to float bowls leaking onto hot exhaust pipes, igniting fumes.

[myac455]

Hijack Alert Man, I love Google Maps, a picture and a link are worth a decent novel.
There wasn't any time to flick the headlight switch and the red marker shows where I was; headed toward the dam, already leaned over into the corner at about DoD nominal when the high beam went out and the RLU kicked on the low beam. The road runs under the pines so I'll give you three guesses what was all over the road and the first two don't count.

It's probably not something myac455 is going to be doing with his chopper though so the RLU is completely optional:-

Bass Lake, Ca. Road 222/South Shore Road




Err... you do have a fire extinguisher, right? Nice work getting the engine to run and check the pipes! I don't want to bring you down but try not to play with gasoline indoors if you can avoid it. Take the bike outside to see if the fuel system is working and keep the extinguisher handy until you can tell it's not going to puke fuel everywhere and 'splode.

Also, if you use compressed air to blow out the carburetors and you still have the stock brass floats in your '79 carburetors, the compressed air can compress the hollow floats and they instantly become expensive brass weights, not floats. When you try to run the engine, the floats don't work and gas will pour out of the carburetors, then you'll have to buy new floats even if you don't set the bike on fire.

Anyway, it sounds like you're having fun, just be careful!

Yes..Had the extinguisher on the bench. I waited about three hours for the floor to dry.
I squeezed off the gas feed once the carbs filled. Then opened it while it was running.
I just let the floats bob around in the Pine-sol , then let them air dry..
It's what we do in Arizona, unless it's carb. body or something . They were about the cleanest part to begin with.
Actually I cranked it over on the starter, while checking the grounded plugs, then installed them, before I brought gas anywhere near it.
But thanks for the extra warning. It never hurts.

[3Phase]

Way to go!

Ah! Arizona! I'm surprised it took more than a few minutes for the spill to evaporate, the biggest problem I've had out there during the summer is hoping the gasoline will stay liquid long enough for it to reach the tank as it's poured out of the can!

Are you going to keep the stock XS11 gas tank for your build or roll your own tank? There are a bunch of threads here in the forums about cleaning and restoring tanks and carburetors. The assorted evil things the ethanol itself in the new blended fuels and the water it absorbs can do to the fuel system is mind boggling. Getting your bike looking good and running like a top, then having the rubber seals harden and leak while the metal parts dissolve or clog up as you ride kind of sucks. Inline fuel filters help but it's kind of an ongoing process, there's not much you can do about it except try to keep everything clean and in good shape and don't let the fuel sit in the carburetors for too long.

[myac455]

Ah! Arizona! I'm surprised it took more than a few minutes for the spill to evaporate, the biggest problem I've had out there during the summer is hoping the gasoline will stay liquid long enough for it to reach the tank as it's poured out of the can!

Are you going to keep the stock XS11 gas tank for your build or roll your own tank? There are a bunch of threads here in the forums about cleaning and restoring tanks and carburetors. The assorted evil things the ethanol itself in the new blended fuels and the water it absorbs can do to the fuel system is mind boggling. Getting your bike looking good and running like a top, then having the rubber seals harden and leak while the metal parts dissolve or clog up as you ride kind of sucks. Inline fuel filters help but it's kind of an ongoing process, there's not much you can do about it except try to keep everything clean and in good shape and don't let the fuel sit in the carburetors for too long.

I might use the smaller "Special?" tank. That way, I won't have to modify anything on the frame. I like the look okay, but have to see one on a bike from different angles. The big one is going away . It makes the engine look smaller, and not so aesthetically pleasing...in my opinion.
I've heard that the big one is desirable to some on here for the extra range, so mine would be for sale.
Reminded me ..I have to drain and pull the carbs first thing today.Now that I know they work, I'll do some cosmetic work on them while it's all apart.

Say, do you know the best place to get parts for them? Full kits, etc.?

Thanks for the geography lesson, BTW. I was in Coarsegold a year ago, visiting friends, before going up into Yosemite.

[3Phase]

I might use the smaller "Special?" tank. That way, I won't have to modify anything on the frame. I like the look okay, but have to see one on a bike from different angles. The big one is going away . It makes the engine look smaller, and not so aesthetically pleasing...in my opinion.
I've heard that the big one is desirable to some on here for the extra range, so mine would be for sale.
Reminded me ..I have to drain and pull the carbs first thing today.Now that I know they work, I'll do some cosmetic work on them while it's all apart.

Say, do you know the best place to get parts for them? Full kits, etc.?

Thanks for the geography lesson, BTW. I was in Coarsegold a year ago, visiting friends, before going up into Yosemite.

The 6-gallon tank on the '81 Venturer is the most popular for touring and the Euro tanks are roughly the same capacity. They can be hard to find in good condition but the smaller 'Special tank would look good for what you're doing.

I buy new float valves, main and pilot jets from the local Yamaha dealer, they're Genuine Mikuni parts and they work better than the aftermarket jets with the least amount of aggravation. Partzilla.com, boats.net, mikesxs.com, partsnmore.com and others like georgefix.com have some carburetor parts too.

Hmm, it looks like georgefix has complete kits for the '79 carburetors now that include slide needles and emulsion tubes but I don't know who made them.

4 Pack 1979 Yamaha XS1100F XS1100SF Special XS1100 carb carburetor repair kits | US $57.09



You have to keep an eye on the fuel and the oil level in the engine. The carburetor float valves have a nasty habit of leaking and filling the crankcase with fuel, then you have to change the oil and fix the leak(s) before you can ride.

[myac455]

Thanks
I'm going to put new diaphragms in too ..Kinda important.
Any source for them?
I guess I'll start looking for a pair of long nose internal snap ring pliers too

[3Phase]

Thanks
I'm going to put new diaphragms in too ..Kinda important.
Any source for them?
I guess I'll start looking for a pair of long nose internal snap ring pliers too

The early model carburetor slides aren't available from Yamaha any more and they'd be almost $280 EACH.
The late-model slides are still available and they're only $141 EACH so they're a real bargain.

There are just diaphragms available from aftermarket companies that you install on your old slides but they're expensive too.
Here's a forum Tech Tip on replacing just the diaphragms:-

XS11.com Forums > Repairs > Carburetors & Fuel System > Carb Diaphragm Replacement Option

[myac455]

Thanks again. Hope they still stock them.
I saw a gasket set on Ebay..Good as any I guess.
How about the seals between the carbs? Are they just neoprene O-rings?

[3Phase]

If you mean the throttle shaft seals, they're actual seals, not o-rings.

You have to grind down the staked tips of the throttle plate screws to remove them and the throttle shaft, then replace them with new screws and stake or Loctite them in place after you put in the new seals.
There are some on eBay for the XS650 so you'd need two sets to do four carbs:-

Mikuni BS34 XS650 Throttle Shaft Seals And Screws | US $12.50

[myac455]

No, I had the end one of those off the other day. The throttle shafts were stuck closed too.
I should have said the fuel and vapor vent tubes between the carbs.

[3Phase]

No, I had the end one of those off the other day. The throttle shafts were stuck closed too.
I should have said the fuel and vapor vent tubes between the carbs.

The new TOS for images on Photobucket won't let them be displayed on third-party web pages any more unless you have a paid account but if you right-click them and open the image it will take you to Photobucket, the images are still there.

XS11.com Forums > Repairs > Carburetors & Fuel System > Carb Tee Repair

[myac455]

Almost there...

Just waiting on the seat..Any day now..Adding pictures..Bear with me.
Anybody care to discuss carb setup with a stock engine and a step, Tri Y header? Mr. 3 Phase...or?

myac455@gmail.com
602-769-0346