XJ1100 teardown: "We-e-e're off to see the welder, the wonderful welder of ours!"

[3Phase]

Skf uj392

I skipped working on the bike and took the dog to the lake with my buddy to test his new boat. It was too windy at the lake and the rangers wouldn't let us launch the boat so we came back and fiddled with some minor stuff on the boat.

The new SKF u-joint cross from NAPA is 2mm smaller but fits perfectly.

The OEM cross is 59mm x 20mm.
The new cross is 57mm x 20mm.

I'll replace the Zirk fitting with a flush-mount fitting.




Rustoleum and DupliColor paint and self-etching primer.




Left-hand side of the repair and the frame.




Right-hand side of the repair and the frame.

[CaptonZap]

Howdy Scott,

I can't tell from the picture, but did the new cross cups have the snap ring grooves inside?

[3Phase]

The new cross has new rings and rubber dust/water seals too that the OEM part doesn't have.

The body is drilled for the grease galleries so it's not quite as strong as the OEM part.

[CaptonZap]

Let's say that in the intervening years the metallurgy has improved so that the strength, even with the lubrication passages, is equal to the original solid core design. And besides, when the joint fails, is it the cross, or yokes that fail?
Are you going to tell us the part number, or are you going to start hawking them yourself?

CZ

[DiverRay]

CZ, check post #10 Scott DID give out the secret! Now he's going to be broke again...

[3Phase]

Curses! Foiled again!

Here's the link to napaonline:-

NAPA Online
Universal Joint (U-Joint)
PART #: UJS UJ392
QUANTITY: 1

The picture of the u-joint cross in post #10 is from NAPA and it's linked to the online order page for the part at napaonline.com, the NAPA box is behind the u-joint in the first picture in post #16.

The old part number that Tod found and posted here on the site was NAPA part# PUJ392 but NAPA seems to have switched from Performance U-Joints to SKF and changed the number.

[3Phase]

Chimp Out!

I remembered the other thing that I don't like about splitting the engine case and that's scraping off the old gaskets and case sealer without messing up the aluminum or slicing off my fingers. It's tedious and time-consuming, especially around the cylinder studs and the jugs but it's all done and I can start to put the engine back together.


Naturally, I can't have anything nice. I just discovered my XJ's lower case half -- the second engine case for me -- was worked over at the factory by Charlie The 3rd Shift Wonder Chimp.

I ordered the kicker assembly from Andreas Weiss and when I went to install it I discovered some serious grindage on the kicker shaft bore in the lower case half.
The XJ1100 engine has absolutely nothing where the kicker assembly goes except the empty kick gear holder with the three bolts that would hold the kicker shaft in the case.




The kicker shaft rotates in and against the damaged case bore when the kicker is used.




It would be almost impossible to see the damage after the kicker is installed.




The kicker is in place and it works, I just have to get a new circlip for the ratchet gear because the old one went walkabout and hasn't come back.

[3Phase]

XS1100 and XJ1100 Bearing Shell Colors and Sizes

I knew I wasn't hel... hayl... hallo... I wasn't seeing things! Once upon a time I saw a bearing color and size chart but I couldn't remember where it was.

Appendices page 7-6 of the XJ1100 Service Manual.



Reference: 0.001 mm = 0.000,039 in
or almost four hundred-thousandths of an inch

[soccer4m]

Kool xj

Scott, Your XJ 1100 maxim is rocking, new frame paint and the ultimate coolness, a actual Kickstart that works, I am so envious. All older bikes should have one just to reach COOLNESS and proudly proclaiming these are Classics. Keep up the redo and pics talk to you soon,,,,,Mike in SUn Diego

[3Phase]

Thanks, Mike! I'm just glad I didn't mess up the frame by riding it around town with a couple of totally gnarly holes in it.

Yes, the kicker is definitely cool and as you remember from the one I have on Columbo it starts the engine in one kick -- every time.

[3Phase]

Miscellaneous questions

Does anyone recognize this cam chain logo?




Sealing on the #3 cylinder sleeve o-ring is hinky, should I add a bead of sealer where there's no gasket?

Upper engine case




Jugs

[motoman]

Does anyone recognize this cam chain logo?




Sealing on the #3 cylinder sleeve o-ring is hinky, should I add a bead of sealer where there's no gasket?

Upper engine case




Jugs

No additional sealer where O-rings are incorporated. IMO, would maybe smear a slick film of dielectic grease on them so they conform themselves easily from being compressed.

[3Phase]

That's the thing, Brant, the o-ring in that one section can't be compressed at all. The o-rings are supposed to keep oil from getting between the iron sleeves and the aluminum jugs but there's a built-in leak at #3.

It's not just a missing part of the base gasket, there is no aluminum for a gasket or the o-ring to seat against either. The o-ring is just hanging in open space with the hot oil bath at some positive crankcase pressure and nothing under the o-ring for that short arc next to the cam chain guide.

[3Phase]

I haven't removed the old o-rings yet and I scribbled some black marker to show the position of the OEM base gasket.

You can see in the picture where the o-ring is not only discolored from the oil bath but it's pulled away from the iron sleeve and is slightly swollen compared to the rest of the o-ring that was compressed under the base gasket.

[DiverRay]

If you look at the "leak", it has no place to go but back into the oil pan. It's open to the pan, the rest of the ring opens to the gasket and the outside. Just no escape!