Power BAND

[Bonz]

Oil thread? Where? ... Squirrel!

[skids]

Oil thread? Where? ... Squirrel!

Just reading the word "squirrel" made my dog bark!

[IanDMacDonald]

10w40 makes sense! Definitely an auto oil unless it was the 10w40 Mc specific oil and you would probably know if it was Mc specific from the bottle.

And, the price, lol. Although I did just steal some 4T @ $8.47/qt.

[speedlimit85]

Just read through this thread. Speedlimit, are you refering to a "rev-limiter"(power-ban) electronics that prevent your engine from spinning to fast (over- reving) and causing damage? Sounds like you nailed your issue with a clutch adjustment, anyway good job! And if this has turned to an oil thread, I run Rotella T 15/40 in mine and in my '84 FJ1100...I'm currently using Mobil1 15/50 in my "15 KLR 650 (now at 3500mi) but I'm probably switching that to RotellaT on my next change. Watch everything, and enjoy the piss out of it! Charley

I mean power band. When the bike takes off like a rocket.

My clutch is still slipping. But only when it is not fully warmed up.

I may try changing the cable next.

[skids]

Changing the cable will not help. It is engaged when there is no cable at all.

[motoman]

Not warmed up and slipping, and adjusted correctly(at the throw-out bearing first, THEN cable) sounds like new Barrnet Clutch springs are in order.

[CJPetersen2000]

Not warmed up and slipping, and adjusted correctly(at the throw-out bearing first, THEN cable) sounds like new Barrnet Clutch springs are in order.

While you're down there check the plates (both fiber and metal ones) for wear and glazing...it might be worth it to buy some new Barnett clutch plates (friction) along with the new springs. Then once adjusted properly you will have a new trouble/slip free clutch that should last for years. This will run you over $100. for the friction plate and springs, about $70. more if you need the metal plates also. if you do it yourself but it's worth it.

[jetmechmarty]

I had a slipping clutch on my XS650. I measured my friction plates, then replaced them. Problem solved. I'm still running the stock springs that I believe are the same as on the XS1100.

BTW, my XS1100 has had Mobil 1, Amsoil, and deisel oil run in it as well as a lot of Yamalube and parts store motorcycle oil. No leaks, no slipping. 85K miles on it now.

[LoreHunter]

Clutch Slip

I had a 1980 G that only gave me juice on the first half of the throttle. I ended up replacing my clutch plates (which were oddly within tolerance) and even ended up keeping the stock springs in and saved my Barnett Springs for backup. I immediately gained all of my post power back.

I have read many opinions about the synthetic oil argument, and haven't tested it myself, but the fact that my plates had the width, but still slipped like crazy, tells me there's some truth to the plate glazing theory.

Again, I had only the bottom half of my power band u til I swapped plates, then that bike was a monster.

Hope you find your issue!

[speedlimit85]

Update

I changed the clutch cable and adjusted and readjusted..

I found turning the screw at the throwout bearing out more than a 1/4 turn stopped the slipping clutch... for now.

This bike does have a power band that is exhilarating.

[motoman]

I changed the clutch cable and adjusted and readjusted..

I found turning the screw at the throwout bearing out more than a 1/4 turn stopped the slipping clutch... for now.

This bike does have a power band that is exhilarating.

Yes, but obvious from that statement you actually haven't a clue as to how it SHOULD be adjusted at the throw-out bearing. Some help with that may clue you in. Loosen cable adjustment till cable is loose, then at the throw-out assembly loosen that lock nut, back screw out a ways.....then slowly start back in till you feel the slightest resistance...then back it out 1/4 turn and hold in place while locking down the lock nut. That quarter turn back out is the throw-out bearing(plate/ball assembly) clearance sos it don't consistently spin off the flywheel assembly. Just like the 'old school' automotive clutch and throw-out bearing assemblies....that is, if you just happen to be familiar with them.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Brant,

That first statement was a bit harsh don't you think? He does know how to adjust the clutch throwout clearance, but sounds like he just needed a little bit more than 1/4 turn OUT to allow HIS throwout to fully disengage the clutch from the throwout rod. It's a little tricky to keep the throwout rod/screw perfectly still after turning it 1/4 turn out and get the locknut secure....it often likes to turn back inward a little while tightening the nut, so turning the screw a little more than a 1/4 turn allows the final locked position to be close to spec and still allow full disengagement of the rod!

T.C.

[speedlimit85]

You're both right. I Know how to adjust the clutch. I was trying to adjust it farther out to stop the slipping. It works for a while and then slips again. I brought it to a shop, I am not checking out plates and springs in the parking lot.

[DiverRay]

Make SURE they replace the springs with BARNETT ONLY ! YES it does matter on the springs. The Vesra brand new are at the bottom of the spec, and most of the "cheap" springs are the same. You CAN get the Yamaha springs, but the Barnett last and are stronger out of the gate. If the miles are low, metals can be scuffed up and re-used 95% of the time. A set of STOCK plates are best. For some reason, Barnett fiber plates don't seem to last as well as the stock Yamaha.

[Ctopher87]

I'm currently running Barnett kevlar friction plates. When I first got my 80sg the fibers were separated completely from the plates. I replaced them with yamaha first but after 100 miles or so they started to slip. That's when I found the forum. I found a great deal on ebay for the Barnett kit. $170 for frictions steels and HD springs. That's been nearly 20k miles ago without slippage. Aside from the "new" carbs, it was the single best thing I could have done.