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Be best to get some liquid wrench sprayed on all the bolts and let it sit over night. Remove the cover then extract the bolt. Once the cover is off you may find you have enough left to get a grip on. Spray what's left with liquid wrench , it should help.
Then when I went to shim the valves, I found that there was plenty of stud exposed to grab on it. It took very little force to spin it out because there was no load on it and it was not rusted.
-Mike
_________
'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 44k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 17k miles
'85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles
Looks like an easy fix........remove valve cover and unscrew remaining broken allen bolt with ya' fingers.
81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
Kroil is the best stuff on earth for loosening up decades of built up corrosion between a fastener and what is frozen to. It is not just a lubricant.
Before I loosen a bolt for the first time, I spray it well and let it sit for at least an hour, sometimes longer and spray it again after the wait time.
I started using it on my XJ650 and use it regularly on my XJ1100.
Hate to be the naysayer of the group, but looking at the amount of bolt still left, it looks to be the same length as what was in the valve cover. He could verify that easily by just holding the remaining bolt against the outside of the hole, and see how far down it goes.
It looks more like it broke of in the head portion. But as has been stated, there's no load/tension on it aside from the corrosion that has formed from the 2 different metals that were joined there, the steel of the bolt, and the aluminum of the head. YET apply some penetrating stuff like what was suggested, PB- Blaster, etc. Also would suggest applying some serious HEAT like from a heat gun to it, then spritz with penetrant again, repeat a few times. THEN if there's nothing left to grab, just get a fairly smaller DRILL and start drilling into it...preferably a reverse bite/cutting bit that way once you drill a little bit into it, it can start to bite the remaining piece, and will then probably just spin/back it out of the hole!
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
reverse bite/cutting bit that way once you drill a little bit into it, it can start to bite the remaining piece, and will then probably just spin/back it out of the hole!
Looks like a tough spot to get a drill bit access to but I agree with TC whole heartedly. The absolute best broken bolt remover in the world is a LEFT TWIST drill bit. I have a full selection and have NEVER had to resort to my kit of Easy-Outs since I acquired those bits.
AND, whatever they put in Kroil that stuff is incredible. I don't know where to buy it but I swipe a can off my A/C Contractor every once in a while...
You can buy Kroil from the manufacturer online. Kano labs. They ship it direct to your door. No muss. No fuss.
........locally at the Ace or Tru-Valu hardware also.
81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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