1980 XS11 Special - Mayberry Duck Rebuild

[Radioguylogs]

Wow!

Dang!

You got a whole bike minus the frame and wheels! Everything except maybe the exhaust looks really nice. The engine looks unusually clean.

Your officially XSive if you weren't before.

I get first dibs on the luggage rack if it doesn't find a home in your fleet.

BTW: Forget the question at the end of my PM.

[madmax-im]

Thats quite a score Kurt!!! Like Phil said ...it does indeed look like a venturer setup but maybe the model year before the venturer...that paint looks original to me...I have the same type of panniers...those lids are hinged and have one latch...

[kboehringer]

Kentucky Road Trip for parts

Dang!
You got a whole bike minus the frame and wheels! ..... I get first dibs on the luggage rack if it doesn't find a home in your fleet.

Mike,
Exactly, by the time I get all the parts I will have 90% of the bike. It's easier to list what the guy plans to keep: Frame, Both Wheels, Front End (Forks, Front Brakes, Front Fender).

I won't use many of these components. I wanted one of those larger Memphis Shades or Dynastars (?) (cover hands & have long legs) rather than using a fairing on Mayberry. But, the guy basically gave me the fairing so I stuffed it in the back seat with a bag on each side and the seat & racks on top. If I don't use the rack.... I'll be sending it your way!

Hi Kurt,
Has it been repainted? as all Venturer were blue.
Phil

Yes. The side covers and the bags have been repainted and the paint is in poor condition on the bags and on one side cover (bubbling). Strangely, one side cover has a blue tint on the underside. Perhaps the PO had to replace that side cover and used one from an actual newer Venturer.

Thats quite a score Kurt!!!....SNIP.....I have the same type of panniers...those lids are hinged and have one latch...

Well Max YOU are a guy to ask this question!.... Does your ignition key open the bags and the compartment on the fairing? Neither I nor the guy I got them from could open them? There is something in the one bag but I have no idea what it is.....Perhaps a Copperhead or a unhappy rattle-snake!

We tried the ignition key but it wouldn't work. I may have to get a locksmith to help if I can't figure out how to pick the lock(s).

One of my older sons will stop over after Church. With his help, and that of my youngest son, we will be able to get the motor out of the car without needing back surgery again or dropping it on the concrete. Nancy and I can't get it out!

Thank You,
KURT

[madmax-im]

No the ignition key does not open them....there is supposed to be a specific key for the bags...if you can get them open you can change out the locks

[madmax-im]

you're looking for a brass key...like the one on the left...

[jetmechmarty]

Do the washer move before you swap the transmission.

[kboehringer]

Absolutely!

Do the washer move before you swap the transmission.

Absolutely! I have read EVERYTHING there is here on the subject and it WILL be done. I will cut the gear to allow use of a washer on the clip side as well since I am not comfortable with the clip alone. Eventually, all three of my Ducks will have this modification performed!
KURT

[kboehringer]

One very big starting problem.......LOW COMPRESSION #4

Previous owner of the bike said "The bike just stopped running". As we all know, it could be 1000+ different things that kept it from running

Or it could be one VERY BIG thing.



#4 piston is not going to be a good spare! Compression is a little LOW~!
LOL! LOL! LOL! LOL! LOL!

KURT

[MaximPhil]

you're looking for a brass key...like the one on the left...

Hi Kurt,
I was thinking ,like i do sometimes anyway I suspect the lock of the fairing is the same key as the two bags on that set up. Look at the hard cover and at the bottom there are two pop rivets. The rivets hold a simple bent metal clip. If you were to (carefully) remove the rivets the cover will be free
Lift slightly and pull back to free the lever at the front.
All this assumes you do not have the key for this. Take the cover to your friendly locksmith and get a key cut.....hopefully it will fit the bags. The bags lock is also a button which has to be pushed down to release the hook.
I suggest you do this outdoors as that rattle snake is going to be mad eek:
Phil

[kboehringer]

Mayberry Duck Update #1

XS Folks,
I've been hard at work trying to pull the spare gears from the donor transmission and evaluate the in-bike transmission. Remembering that the problem is difficulty GETTING INTO SECOND and a clutch that doesn't seem to RELEASE I tried to understand the internal workings of all the components.

I'm not seeing anything that looks like damage inside the current transmission.

At a stop with a light turn of the rear wheel the bike shifts properly and soundly into 2nd. I see no damage to gears or shift forks and barely any visible wear. There is a bit of resistance which decreases as I shift up toward 5th Gear. It still feels like SOMETHING should be releasing better?

I replaced the clutch cable with an old serviceable cable and it seems to have improved release. There was a slight length difference as the internal of the old cable was about 3/16" longer (stretched). It's difficult to get a feel for the release point (especially not running) and the new Barrett springs are very MUCH stiffer than my other XS11's. Honestly, I'm not sure I appreciate the feel and will very likely change these out to a stock spring, if a bit of driving doesn't improve the feel.

I've begun to wonder if I have a problem with the starter release? If you recall I mentioned a strange noise on shutdown that seems to come from the starter or its associated components.

There is a bunch of info in Clymer about pulling and installing those components but nothing about proper operation, testing, repair. How's this stuff supposed to work? Be tested? It may be that this machine had sat for quite a while could this be gummed up?

I have all the necessary components available for replacement. None of the parts removed from the donor appear damaged. I will do the washer move but want to get EVERYTHING bad out of here in ONE shot....even if it means splitting the cases!



All input appreciated....

Respectfully,

[kboehringer]

Mayberry Duck Update #2 Droopy Bags....

XS Folks,

While others with common sense are making XMAS preparations I'm playing with the XS's every available minute.

I recently acquired a set of a newer style Yamaha bags and I will replace the older bags I had planned to use. The newer bags are hinged and locking and I'll avoid the apparently common loss of a lid. I hope the newer style bags will allow a higher mounting. They will! BUT, there is still a lot of fabrication and modification to complete to get them mounted on a SG.



I think the modified mounting will eliminate the "DROOPY" look the older bags with the more stock mounting created.





They will look a lot better once they have a nice coat of "Jetstream Blue Mettalic". Unfortunately, there's a bunch of work to complete and some minor repairing to finish before a finish coat can be applied. I borrowed a plastic welder from work and it did a wonderful job on a couple cracks. These bags are PLASTIC so traditional body work that would apply to the older fiberglass bags is not going to work (or last) with these. Special procedures are mandatory for a long-lasting and correct repair.

They're being finished over with a fine layer of fiberglass after a rough cut with a 60 grit cut to promote adhesion. Then a fine gel/finesse coat over the completed plastic welding repairs.

I've got a week or so off during Winter shutdown at the plant so these should look real nice after the holiday!

Any, any input is appreciated.

Sincerely,

[madmax-im]

Great efforts equal great results...the only question or observation o have s that your paint work is so good and you obviously know what you are doing...so how much would it take to have you to paint mine?

[Radioguylogs]

About Update#1

It's got to be puzzling that there is still no apparent cause for "hard to go into second gear".

In case it sparks any ideas:
(a) Of course you are familiar with the clutch actuator adjustment- it's insulting for me to even mention it.
(b) The shift drum goes to detent reliably?
(c) You already looked at the shift pawls-linkage stuff and it doesn't seem bent or misadjusted.
(d) Shift fork is not bent (not likely)

Meanwhile, the pictures of both transmissions look nice, but the problems areas are not shown in the pictures-> the 1-4 and 2-5 slots and dogs. Do you plan to Dremel or grind the donor parts? One member is adamantly against it (unless necessary), and others seem generally in favor of doing it while you in there.

I was able to buy new 2nd, 1st and, luckily, 5th gears. So I only cut #4 into square dogs at a machine shop.

Here is 1-4 Before:


Here is 1-4 after:


I am still wondering why I am prone to miss 4th gear a lot when I am riding aggressively. I wonder if it is related to the washer swap....and I hope more discussion about 4th gear happens within the forum at some point.

We're enjoying your project!

[kboehringer]

No professional here

so how much would it take to have you to paint mine?

MadMax,
I am certainly no professional and photos on the internet are frequently deceiving. I've found that out a number of times. As a self-taught happy do-it-yourselfer I'm pretty darn good. As a professional, I would be unable to provide professional level results in a timely fashion and make a buck. But we've all seen "Professional" jobs that looked like total pooop amateur work.

I am fortunate that I know a couple TRUE professional painters that I can ask a question or two. In addition, I have a nice relationship with the guys at the PPG paint store. I make it clear at the start of every conversation with them that: a) I am an idiot with limited skills and equipment, b) I would really appreciate their help and advice. They have walked me through every step of complicated paint/repair processes.


I also enjoy standing back an seeing my work.... Not sure I'd get the same feeling of satisfaction by doing this for others? BUT, I will provide instructions and photos for anyone that wants 'em on how to properly repair plastic.

Respectfully,
KURT

[kboehringer]

.....
(b) The shift drum goes to detent reliably?
..SNIP..
Do you plan to Dremel or grind the donor parts? One member is adamantly against it (unless necessary), and others seem generally in favor of doing it while you in there.
..SNIP..

Mike,
Thanks for the suggestions. I need to get a much better look at the shift drum to determine its condition. I thought the pin on the back of pawl #2 might not have been quite right. BUT my head barely fit under there and the mirror I had was useless.

I'm not too sure about the dremel deal on my gears. I have a lathe and mill available should I need to clean anything up. I don't believe I am capable of producing consistent results with a dremel to assure firm/equal contact on multiple cogs engaging a secondary gear. Personally, I would do more harm than good with a Dremel.

Kurt