1980 XS11 Special - Ugly Duckling Rebuild

[DiverRay]

Kurt,
DO NOT HONE THE CALIPERS!!!!!!! clean the inside with brake fluid, and clean the grove the seal goes into VERY WELL. You probably want to soda blast the parts, as they are all alloy, and sand will pit them.
You CAN get buy WITHOUT the octy, just search on the fuel mods and I think the thread should be there. IF not, just make SURE you do NOT mix Left and Right petcocks, as they ARE different. To bypass, just plug the FRONT nipple on each petcock, and you have off, on, reserve operational.

[kboehringer]

Brakes & Petcocks

Kurt,
DO NOT HONE THE CALIPERS!!!!!!! clean the inside with brake fluid, and clean the grove the seal goes into VERY WELL. You probably want to soda blast the parts, as they are all alloy, and sand will pit them.
You CAN get buy WITHOUT the octy, just search on the fuel mods and I think the thread should be there. IF not, just make SURE you do NOT mix Left and Right petcocks, as they ARE different. To bypass, just plug the FRONT nipple on each petcock, and you have off, on, reserve operational.

Ray,
Thanks for the info. Turns out our "SandBlaster" really doesn't use any sand. It uses a soda mix. It did a really nice job on the calipers. Although the original black coating is far superior to anything that will come out of a "Rattle-Can" the OEM coating was all beat up and chipping. It also showed signs of being hit with a hammer. I guess that was the PO's method of un-freezing a dirty caliper.



It was also clearly not necessary to do much more than use a very fine steel wool to clean the pistons and cylinders in the calipers. I pulled the old seals and cleaned them and their groove thoroughly. They look very good and although the seals are old, they move relatively freely with a little air pressure from my little hot dog compressor as it can't provide the appropriate pressure which master cylinder provides. I'll need to order new seals, dust covers, and SS lines before installation on the bike

RE: Petcocks
Apparently the previous owner managed to run the bike without the vacuum. I had a bad petcock on my XJ550 (different design) but kept getting fuel in the crankcase until I figured out the problem petcock. I'll try to find the proper parts to avoid that issue with the XS11 but I will plug the front nipples until those proper parts can be found.

Respectfully,
Kurt

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Kurt,

Yamaha's engineering for the most part is good, but they screwed the pooch with the Octopus/vac. controlled valve assembly for the Specials. Talk about overcomplicating a process! Aside from the purpose of protecting the engine/carbs by shutting off the fuel when the engine is off, it also add a bunch of extra fuel lines and connections that can fail/leak! The petocks can be set to OFF. Granted IF the carbs float valves leak and the fuel is left ON, you can get fuel in the crank/oil. Many folks have just learned to turn OFF their petcocks when parking for a while. Others have installed manual separate INLINE shut off valves to not rely on an automatic valve that can fail due to corrosion/worn diaphragm and such.

Now with the calipers clean, remove the O-rings and put some tape over the grooves, and then you can just powdercoat them if you want a more durable coating than paint....or you can sand/and polish the calipers and leave them natural alulmiunum.

T.C.

PS, it's been recommended NOT to use Steel Wool due to the small fibers that can get embedded into material and then promote RUST....they suggest Stainless Steel wool, or other type of fiber based scrubbers similar to sanding discs and such that don't have iron/steel in them.

[kboehringer]

Another Problem?!?!

XS Guys,
Well I'm working late tonight on the Ugly Duckling as I expect a bunch of parts to show on the door step tomorrow or Friday.

Decided to FINALLY crack open the headlamp to see what nightmare was contained within...... Well, probably worse than expected. Another dozen+++ spliced and hacked wires and I found where the Alabama ANTS were hiding. They're down in the jacket of the main wiring harness. Hardy little buggers won't even die with a direct shot of raid.

Well anyway, the bucket is rusted to heck and I'm looking around the inter-web to see what a replacement might cost and it looks like this is not even the correct headlamp for an '80 SG. NOTHING advertised looks like this thing with it's huge hole in the rear.

Is this the right head lamp bucket for an '80SG?


I've been concerned that the turn signals should also be mounted to the same bolt as the headlamp but saw one or two examples where they were mounted behind like this. However, I'm pretty sure this is another engineering design change by the PO. I knew the bolts were B.S. but I'm thinking the whole thing is crap.

Is this signal mounting correct for an '80SG?



Looks like more parts are needed..............

Sincerely,
Kurt

[kboehringer]

Honda CB750 Headlamp - Another screw up....

Found a I.D. number on the headlamp. HM-44M-s, It's from a Honda CB750.
UGH!

[jetmechmarty]

The bucket is wrong. The turn signal mounting is wrong. You need ti go to the Yamaha website and make a copy of the Illustrated Parts Breakdown. That will help you more than anything. You may just have to print each page.



Try this. https://www.yamahapartsandaccessorie...&dealernumber=

When it comes to brake lines, buy new ones. The FSM recommends replacement every four years.

[Prisoner6]

The bucket is wrong. The turn signal mounting is wrong ...

Kurt,

Yep ... the dreaded PO!

As Marty said, print out the "Flasher Lamp" and "Headlight" diagram pages (or you could print out all the pages for future reference!)

In the meantime, here are a couple of decent pics of what the headlight and turn signal mounting should look like:

(I know these are pics of a '79 Special, but the headlight and turn signal mounting are identical to the '80 Special)

CLICK on each pic to get a larger, then supersized view.

[kboehringer]

Thanks for the LINK!

Try this. https://www.yamahapartsandaccessorie...&dealernumber=

Marty & Prisoner6,
Thanks for the link and the pics. That link to Yamaha is terrific. With that link and the Clymer manual I should be able to determine all the stuff that the PO screwed up.

I pretty much knew the headlamp and signals were screwed up when I got the bike. I just didn't realize how screwed up they were.

I've mentioned I use to work for a Yamaha dealer back in the late '70's & early '80's. As a pretty young guy I did not have the experience, skill, or permission to perform many of the repairs required on these big street bikes. HOWEVER, as "the young guy" I had to pull all the new bikes from the crates and set them up for display in the showroom. Typically, the bikes came mostly completed with the handle bars wrapped and set to the side, batteries out. The turn signals, reflectors, mirrors, & etc. were in a box within the carton. I believe I installed more turn signals, mirrors, front wheels, etc. than you would believe.

Even though it's been 35 years.... I KNEW something was terribly screwed up with this assembly before I even pulled the lamp out.

Thanks a lot for the input.

Sincerely,
Kurt

[kboehringer]

It's CHRISTMAS!!! UPS & FedEx & USPS All delivered TODAY!

XS Folks,

I feels like XMas! Several parts orders arrived today from all over the place: Washington/Canada, North Carolina, Colorado, California, Altanta!

With all the setbacks I felt I was due a break!

First, a full and complete air box assembly from our XS Friend in Washington/Canada showed and it is ABSOLUTELY PERRRRFECT. Every nut, bolt, clamp, hose and the CHROME SIDES ARE PERFECT! He also sold me a RT control which will work perfectly with just a tiny bit of cleaning. What a deal and what a nice guy to work with!

Second, a full and basically unmolested XS11SG wiring harness from North Carolina. The seller said there was only one issue with the harness (a bad tail lamp area) and he was 100% honest. The thing is PERFECT every connector and every wire. He even included a whole bunch of the items which attach to the harness which my Ugly Duckling had been missing (relays & etc.). All for only $25 (including shipping).

Finally, a whole bunch of stuff from Colorado including: a new pull bar, fender, side cover WITH COMPLETE KICK STARTER assembly included, battery box, and a lot of nuts & bolts from disassembly.

I'll be up all night. I can guarantee I don't get 15 minutes of sleep tonight. Feel like a kid at Christmas....:D

Although a bunch of problems (including headlamp bucket) will still exist, the Ugly Duckling should look like an XS11 before morning.

Sincerely,
KURT

Before & After rear fender.....

New Harness.... A little cleaning and in she goes!

[kboehringer]

Close up photos NEEDED......

XS Guys,
I installed my replacement wiring harness yesterday and it looks really nice. I'm looking through the Clymers manual and can't find any really good close-up pics of the fuse/solenoid area behind the RT side cover. I really want to route all the wiring as stock.

Can someone post a nice pic of this area that would show all the wire routing etc.? Basically all the stuff behind/around the back of the battery box and the little metal plate that holds the fuse box and etc.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Sincerely,
KURT

[jetmechmarty]

While you're at it, this may be a good time to upgrade the fuse box. You can probably make it look better than mine. I moved the main fuse from behind the left side cover to the main block for simplicity. I invested in a flag terminal crimper to get it right.




The spring locks in the OEM box are getting weak by now and break easily. The proper fuses are not readily available at auto parts stores. If you must, a reproduction fuse box is available.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-New...-/221360024480
Replacing it will require an open barrel crimper. You'll be adding a connector. Parts-n-More and Mike's XS both carry the fuses.

[kboehringer]

Wiring Done, I unknown wire. Everything seems to work.

XS Folks,
I finished the install of the replacement wiring harness and everything SEEMS to be working. I have only the front signals mounted. The TURN signals won't flash when selected but I ASSUME that's because the rears are not installed/hooked up? However, when HAZARDS are selected the front signals will flash. I have ONE wire, a MALE push-in RED/Yellow (R/Y) in the area of the right side cover/fuse panel without a home. The Clymer wiring diagram indicates this has something to do with flasher canceling & turn signals. Maybe that's why they won't flash? There has got to be a home for this wire somewhere in that area? Missing component?


For the moment, I've clipped off a female from a scrap harness to keep this from contacting a ground or causing some other issue. THOUGHTS?

Once I am 100% sure EVERYTHING is working correctly in STOCK form, I'm going to make the recommended upgrades to fuses and etc.

AIR BOX INSTALLED:
I installed the beautiful air box provided by Andreas. I feel like I just went 10 rounds with Mike Tyson! However, unlike a fight with Mike, I did win in the end!

I now know why people don't put these back after removing them! IMPO, the bike looks better with that nice chrome air box installed. According to everything I've read HERE, the bike runs better with it than without it unless the carbs are all adjusted properly to compensate for a different set-up.


Air box is IN!!!!

A LOT OF WORK SO FAR:
Well I've only had the bike about two weeks and she has had an incredible transformation (in my opinion). The wiring harness was probably the most significant improvement but the paint doesn't look too bad either.

As of TODAY I have $625.00 out of pocket expenses (including purchase price of the bike $300 and parts to be delivered).

I feel I'm doing pretty good so far but the two biggest ticket items (exhaust & a seat) have yet to be purchased. I've noticed a NICE Midnight Special in South Georgia going for $1200 on Craigslist. and another '80SG in VERY NICE shape with an asking price of $2500. I THINK I'm still doing pretty good although those other bikes have really nice pipes and seats and were certainly not the mess I purchased. I'm not sure this bike will ever look as nice as the $2500 one on sale. Also, even though the bike "RUNS", I doubt it has EVER had a proper valve adjustment and everything on it requires proper service (wheel bearings, tires, stem bearings, etc. etc.) Do you think I am peeeeeeing away money on this thing?

This is what she looks like today:

This is where she was 2-weeks ago.....


I hope everyone has a GREAT weekend and those of you with "Drive-able" bikes get out and have a SAFE ride. I'm headed for the Beach!!!

Respectfully,
KURT

[DeanR]

I feel like I just went 10 rounds with Mike Tyson!

I know the feeling.
Bike is looking great. Nice color.

[3Phase]

I have ONE wire, a MALE push-in RED/Yellow (R/Y) in the area of the right side cover/fuse panel without a home.

I'm pretty sure that particular Red/Yellow wire is for the Start bypass circuit for the Ignition Ballast Resistor, not the Signals or the Hazard lights. It's supposed to feed 12v to the Ignition Coils while the starter motor is cranking to make the engine easier to start.

Your bike used to have a Green wire with one end connected to the Starter terminal of the starter solenoid along with the Black starter cable. The other end had the bullet connector for the Red/Yellow wire.

It looks like the Green wire might have been cut off at the bullet connector.

.

[jetmechmarty]

Apparently, you installed the airbox with the carburetors in place. I didn't know it was possible. With carburetors missing, it takes about two minutes. Installing the carburetors with airbox in place takes about 12 minutes, once you know how to do it.

If you're doing this to make money, you're pissing it away. If you're bringing the bike back to ride it, I think you're doing well, so far.

Here's another link you might need: NW Vintage Cycle Parts Often these folks come through when parts houses like Partzilla fail you. I sourced new headlight ears and footrest covers there.

Here's an option for those Mac headpipes on your bike:

I salvaged the headers by repairing the manifold flange. I then discovered SuperTrapp has car mufflers in about every size you can imagine. I looked around online and ordered a set of brushed stainless steel mufflers that slipped on the MAC headers. To my surprise, the SuperTrapp muffler mounts bolted perfectly to the OEM muffler mounts

These mufflers are completely tunable. The sound is a smooth pleasingly muffled tone that growls under hard throttle and rumbles on deceleration.