Now Hands-On Help Needed Carb cleaning in Tampa Fla.

[Schming]

so hence my gas leak out of the airbox?

Maybe whilst running but not when the engine is off.

I'm seeing dried up O-rings on the float valves and your old float needle rubber tips are hard so replacement of most rubber parts and good cleaning/polishing of the correct areas along with the new float needles you provided will most likely cure the leakage but I will bench test to confirm.

The diaphragms look good.

I believe we should rebuild the octy and replace the Butterfly shaft seals also.

[Jeffintampa]

Maybe whilst running but not when the engine is off.

I'm seeing dried up O-rings on the float valves and your old float needle rubber tips are hard so replacement of most rubber parts and good cleaning/polishing of the correct areas along with the new float needles you provided will most likely cure the leakage but I will bench test to confirm.

The diaphragms look good.

I believe we should rebuild the octy and replace the Butterfly shaft seals also.

what every you believe might as well. Rasputin is sending me the shims I need for my intake so all my intakes should be right around 20, and with the great job your doing on them I shouldn't have to do anything for what 5 years?

[Bonz]

Don't base work on years since last done, base it on miles with respect to valves.

[cdavidscee]

The flooding issue

I have read the entire post and have the same problem as Jeff. Have you found the problem that is causing the flooding specifically?

[Schming]

I have read the entire post and have the same problem as Jeff. Have you found the problem that is causing the flooding specifically?

Hi David, if the fuel tees are in good shape the only other place fuel can leak, from the carbs, is the needle valves and/or seats.


This is one of Jeff's old needles and you will notice the wear ring, also it's hard as a rock:



When I rebuild carbs I don't look for a shortcut, every piece gets dismantled and cleaned spotless, necessary parts get polished. All o-rings, shaft seals, gaskets, bad screws along with jets that have compromised heads get replaced with genuine Mikuni parts.

The diaphragms get inspected thrice in case I missed a pinhole.

I also make sure all jets are the proper ones for the year of bike and carbs and that they display the Mikuni logo.





IMHO, carbs that have engine off flooding problems can be fixed starting at the needle valves and working upward to the petcocks rebuilding along the way.

[cdavidscee]

needle valve tip

Hi Schinn I did notice that my tips also have the ring showing and are R&L's. After reading Macks stuff It seem apparent that the seats are also R&L's. Have you also had trouble with R&L needles and seat's. It would seem that if everybody is having so much difficulty with these needle valves R&L would not be so prevalent on E-Bay. One of the things I like about E-Bay is people can give feedback and if a seller is selling crap people know it. So do you think the hard needle tips are the reason for the flooding? My tips are quite soft as everything in the these carbs were replaced by the previous owner. I don't think I have tried to cut corners and have taken them all apart re cleaned, re set, re read till I am crazy. Just wondering if you found anything else in there that might have caused Jeff's problem ie bent float? incorrect float level? scratchs on the needle tang from screw driver (adjustment tool). Like I said these carbs did not flood until I got in there to change jets for a lean run issue (kirker). So I don't think I all of a sudden caused a change in the tips? Doesn't make any sense? I have trimmed the gaskets, looked a float alignment, put on fliters, cleaned cleaned cleaned. Now ready with hand grenade!! Dave

[Schming]

Hi Dave, I received Jeff's carbs partially dismantled as in the float bowls, floats, needle valves, needles and hardware were in a container along with the carbs. With that said, I can tell you from my previous experiences with Keihens, Hitachis, Mikunis, Solex from my VW along with numerous others I am really anal and try not to leave anything to chance when rebuilding carbs and here's why;

T.C., with his carb dissection, amongst other Fine Minds on this and the UK site got me to thinking 'bout all the passages working together, and separate, overlapping at different RPMs so if for example the enrichiner valve isn't sealing properly or slight differences in float heights or one petcock isn't feeding fuel as fast as the other etc. IMHO all these possible problem points need addressed the first time in and the results will speak for themselves.

But to answer your question, there are alot of possible points of failure on Jeff's carbs and I'm eliminating them in a very meticulous fashion along with the knowledge from our Sisters & Brothers here

[tomcos67]

Carbs...

Seeing all those carbs apart.That looks like a lot of labor intensive hrs, and nice of you to help.fellow member. Good luck.!.Have a nice day.

[Schming]

Thanxs Tom, it's a labor of love, so as long as I'm able to sneak a half hour in the morning and an hour after work out of my demanding schedule I find solace in the garage surrounded by Yamaha's

Also to belong to a XSessive community that has given me so much help just by reading others posts it's a little pay it forward

[Schming]

Jeffs #2 carb:



clamped for soldering:



which held:


until almost drilled through:





milled it:



drilled it:



tapped it:



used a lever bolt:















Thanxs DGXSer

Don's post on this repair inspired me to give this a shot and it came out well.

I miss him alot but he lives on, here, in these pages

[bikerphil]

Very nice job you did there brother, .

[Radioguylogs]

Inspiring workmanship....and generosity with your time and talent..

[Gmac]

That repair is impressive

I really like the approach you took on that, impressive to say the least.

Easy but solid approach first with solder and then a full on, full tilt, attack with an engineering twist to make sure it's done right. You sir, are diabolical when it comes to repairing a broken object that was near impossible to fix to start with.

Jeff will be getting back a rack of near new carbs for his bike. I learned a new trick in case I break one of mine so I will not have a panic attack if I do and that all the rubber items need to be replaced as long as the carbs are apart. The old saw, "Pay me now or pay me later." modified to 'Fix it now or fix it better later'. I bet it makes tuning a lot less problematic seeing as these are vacuum operated carbs and any leak anywhere in the system is likely to influence overall performance.

Thanks for the repair demonstration.

Question, is that weld material mentioned in another thread and where is it available at?

[Jeffintampa]

I am amazed

wow, you can tell its a labor of love. Thanks again sooooo much. I got the welding rods sent to me by a friend here. You can get the rods on ebay pretty cheap its called like t2000 or something like that a demo is someware back on this post

[jwhughes3]

I am glad to see they worked.

Nice repair.

Hope you are riding soon.

John