Solenoid...TCI ..????

[jetmechmarty]

That connector Phil pointed out had me broken down on the way to XS East 2013. Sprayed it with contact cleaner and that was that.

Here's ace troubleshooter, Brent, getting to the bottom of it in Franklin, NC where my bike stopped running. I had the same symptoms described here.


Check that kill switch and associated circuit.

[BA80]

No. It became another issue while we were troubleshooting. I went to jiggle the ignition wire and it came out. I won't be having that issue anymore.

OK, that answer was about as vague as could be. Was it or wasn't it? Have you had the crank/ no start issue since?

[jetmechmarty]

OK, that answer was about as vague as could be. Was it or wasn't it? Have you had the crank/ no start issue since?

Greg,
My no start issue in Sept at the Iron Horse was caused by broken insulation on my pick-up coil repair. Repositioning those wires got me going that morning and a blob of RTV has kept it going so far. You helped me get there and thanks for that. During the troubleshooting no spark I pulled on the ignition wire at the fuse box. It came out. So, that was just another thing that I had to fix, but not the original problem. I still need to do a permanent fix under the left cover, or I'll be going through the same thing. Rather than an open wire, it was a short to ground.

Here's the scene. Me and Greg troubleshooting with and audience.

[ViperRon]

I had a wire that goes to the ignition fuse right where the crimp is go bad and the intermittent problem about drove me nuts. My first condition was I could crank the bike one time and if it did not stay running and I tried to start again it would not start till I turned the switch off and back on. Everything metered out fine both with ohm meter and with volt meter. It only lost connection when I hit the start switch and all you would get is the first click of the relay and then would not hold. I spent many hours chasing this till one day just before the south east rally it became a solid no start condition and would not keep running after I took off jumper wire to power the TCI. Since the fuse block are is a known area for problems I suggest a jumper out of the ignition fuse all the way to the next condition to eliminate your hair turning as grey as mine did. Remember any wire could have this type problem in the self hold path and have like a 1 ohm connection and you see 12 volts potential and as soon as you need power it looses connection.

[skids]

Check the kill/start switch connector under the tank, the pins in that type connector stretch out and will reduce the voltage to the TCI/solenoid and could cause your issue. I just went thru this with my 79F a couple weeks ago. I eliminated that lousy connector with butt splice connectors, runs nice and strong/dependable now. GL

That is good to know. Another gremlin to eliminate.

[rdmcguy]

Eureka !!!!

Congratulations Biker Phil..You win the prize...The connector from the right handlebar switch to the main harness WAS the problem..Usually the problem would occur within a mile or two from my house....I just got back from a 25 mile ride ...all is well...I also did check all else that had been mentioned ...THANKS to all !!

[bikerphil]

Glad you got it figured out Joe, happy that I was able to help you.

[trbig]

You say this as though it is a bad idea to use dielectric grease... but a proper conception is not effected by it

So that's why Greg has so many kids! He was using dielectric grease for birth control?

Sorry, carry on with helping with his Magic Smoke problems. lol

[BA80]

So that's why Greg has so many kids! He was using dielectric grease for birth control?

Sorry, carry on with helping with his Magic Smoke problems. lol

Not good for birth control Bigelow but sure made the connections good. SA