Time to wake her up...

[BA80]

Hey ekiM,

Your last post has me a little confused about how you have it plumbed?

You said it backfired thru the "unused petcock lines/lawnmower tank"???

+1

[ekim]

Hey TC,

Either I can not say it well or you are reading 'wrong'... :>)

I have a 1980 standard (G) - no octopus
Only 3 vacuum lines exist on the bike.

I have removed the tank and acquired/installed a small lawnmower gas tank.
from that tank there is a line with a tee and hoses. the gas lines are attached to the carbs. Because there are no petcocks requiring vacuum the 2 vacuum lines normally connected to the petcocks are unattached at the 'tank' end. They are still connected to the manifold sides. These loose lines 'react' (pop, bounce etc) during backfire/mis-fire. The vacuum line for the ignition advance is still attached appropriately (and has no cracks etc).

Does that make more sense?
- sorry for the confusion.

[BA80]

Plug those lines. If they are open they are vacuum leaks and will significantly affect the running of the engine.

[ekim]

Well THAT makes sense! I should have known/remembered that. I will plug the lines and retest.

Damn forest is full of pesky trees!

THANK YOU!

[jetmechmarty]

As a reminder, he's working on an XS1100G. It's a standard.

[ekim]

So close, I can taste it

Gents,

Well I plugged the dangling petcock vacuum lines with golf tees (they never see much original intended use anyway <grin>) and all the gremlins went away. Self-induced vacuum leak (bangs head on table).

So she is running pretty well now. Not quite as smooth as a sewing machine but I think tuning is next on the list. It doesn't run/idle once warm and off choke. The idle is too low. I will bump it up to 1100.
I am confused from a theory perspective as why it would be low.
The carb rack remained assembled, I tore down, cleaned and rebuilt the carbs with the original parts (did replace 1 head mangled idle screw with identical part). Why the drop in idle speed? It ran fine before the long nap. Just a curiosity question.

So for tuning after the idle is adjusted - sync is next right?
I do not have any gauges (other than my mighty vac) and do not want to try and build a science fair project with bottles and tubes.
What might be the most affordable real tool to get?
I may have one I can borrow but I'm still checking.

We are REAL close to my maiden ride around the block - usps says my brake lines will be delivered late today. Hopefully get the brakes setup tomorrow and down the street I go ! (70 degrees here for the next few days - yipee! It has only been ~15 years since a ride).

[donebysunday]

Gents,

So she is running pretty well now. Not quite as smooth as a sewing machine but I think tuning is next on the list. It doesn't run/idle once warm and off choke. The idle is too low. I will bump it up to 1100.
I am confused from a theory perspective as why it would be low.
The carb rack remained assembled, I tore down, cleaned and rebuilt the carbs with the original parts (did replace 1 head mangled idle screw with identical part). Why the drop in idle speed? It ran fine before the long nap. Just a curiosity question.

So for tuning after the idle is adjusted - sync is next right?
I do not have any gauges (other than my mighty vac) and do not want to try and build a science fair project with bottles and tubes.
What might be the most affordable real tool to get?
I may have one I can borrow but I'm still checking.

We are REAL close to my maiden ride around the block - usps says my brake lines will be delivered late today. Hopefully get the brakes setup tomorrow and down the street I go ! (70 degrees here for the next few days - yipee! It has only been ~15 years since a ride).

I take it you have checked the valves, you can sync the carbs anytime but some things need to be done first to make sure the engine is right when you do the carbs.
If you did not move the idle speed adjuster then the jets might have plugged up again ?

It is possible to sync with just 2 gauges cost about 1/2 the 4 gauge set like this but this (eBay# 111507233278 ) would be the easiest. This is not an expensive set (others my have better choices) I'm interested since I will need to replace my mercury styx soon.

[ekim]

First Run!

Yippee !!!

I put 15 miles on her on Friday. I increased the idle speed and she ran fine.
Went by the Yamaha shop to pick up my rear brake rebuild kits. All the service employees came out to look her over - lot's of compliments.

Here is what they saw:


On Sat I went to get a new rear tire. After I got it home I checked and saw it was mounted backwards. I am too trusting.
Went back and had it remounted/balanced.

I went to install the tire that night and had a hell of a time.
Long story short (and of course they are closed Sunday and Monday).
I think I am missing a spacer/washer on the wheel.
Things were mis-aligned. When tightening the axle nut the brake side of the axle draws in too deep. ie the usually visible holes are pulled in.
I am not referring to the "dont lose this washer" located between the brake mount and the positioning bracket.

Notice on the picture there is light grey area inside, which is recessed from the outer edge. Just enough room for a spacer etc.
Am I correct in that I am missing a piece?
Service diagrams are unclear.

[Schming]

Check post #8 in this link:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38523

Super Nice Bike BTW !!!

[motoman]

Yippee !!!

I put 15 miles on her on Friday. I increased the idle speed and she ran fine.
Went by the Yamaha shop to pick up my rear brake rebuild kits. All the service employees came out to look her over - lot's of compliments.

Here is what they saw:


On Sat I went to get a new rear tire. After I got it home I checked and saw it was mounted backwards. I am too trusting.
Went back and had it remounted/balanced.

I went to install the tire that night and had a hell of a time.
Long story short (and of course they are closed Sunday and Monday).
I think I am missing a spacer/washer on the wheel.
Things were mis-aligned. When tightening the axle nut the brake side of the axle draws in too deep. ie the usually visible holes are pulled in.
I am not referring to the "dont lose this washer" located between the brake mount and the positioning bracket.

Notice on the picture there is light grey area inside, which is recessed from the outer edge. Just enough room for a spacer etc.
Am I correct in that I am missing a piece?
Service diagrams are unclear.

May check with the shop that originally mounted tire backwards .

[jetmechmarty]

Maybe this will help.

[ekim]

Schming,

Thanks for the compliment and the picture. I think I am missing the silver piece left of the brake mount and right of the 'wheel bearing assembly'

Motoman,

That is the plan once they open tomorrow. I was making sure it was not pilot error on my side.

jetmechmarty,

Ive seen that diagram...
Where does the brake mount fit into the sequence?
Between 37 and 38?
If so, I think I am missing #38 (shaft collar?)

[jetmechmarty]

I thought the picture had everything in order.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Ekim I think you are correct. Looks like the first piece that goes into the wheel is missing.
Next time you will remember to remove before delivering to the tire guy
Phil

[Schming]

Schming,

Thanks for the compliment and the picture. I think I am missing the silver piece left of the brake mount and right of the 'wheel bearing assembly'

Motoman,

That is the plan once they open tomorrow. I was making sure it was not pilot error on my side.

jetmechmarty,

Ive seen that diagram...
Where does the brake mount fit into the sequence?
Between 37 and 38?
If so, I think I am missing #38 (shaft collar?)

From your pic, looks like your not only missing the shaft collar (38) but also the dust seal (39) for the bearing that the shaft collar fits into.

Edit: On a second look, ok third, maybe the dust seal is there under the dust.