clutch....

[Jeffintampa]

Hi all,
Quick question I probably know the answer to but here goes. Bike runs great but when I really get on it, the clutch slips and then graps when I decellerate. Do I need a new clutch? Is there an adjustment?

Thanks
Jeff

[IanDMacDonald]

I'd suggest clutch springs, and while ur in there, measure your plates, and clean your disks.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jeff,

But before tearing into the engine, there IS an adjustment process. There's an adjuster nut/screw combo under the clutch cover plate....that smaller one with the 2 philips head screws on the large clutch case cover. Inside there you'll find the phillips headed center throwout rod and 12mm locknut on the end of the throwout shaft and lever unit. You unlock the lock nut, then turn the phillips screw first out a turn or so until it's a little loose, not making contact with the throwout bearing, then you slowly turn it back inwards, Clockwise until it just starts to make contact, then stop, rotate it back CCW a 1/4 turn, then holding it in place with the screwdriver, lock the lock nut.

Then test it out. You may need to readjust the handlebar lever release action and slack, etc. However, after adjustment, if it still slips under strong throttle load in high gear, then as IAN said, your springs are probably SPRUNG/shot. It's rare for the frictions to wear down too much depending on how many miles are on the engine. The quickest easiest fix is to replace the springs with BARNETT HD types, and that's about it. If you want to get ANAL, you can pull the basket, pull the frictions out, measure them with a micrometer...specs are 3.0mm thick NEW to 2.80 mm worn minimum limit. Take the steels out and clean them up with fine emory cloth. If the frictions are close to the 2.8 then you can get stock style replacements from Partsnmore.com fairly cheaply....you'll need 8. Don't bother with their alleged heavy duty springs....they are just VESRAH brand, not that strong, get the BARNETTS.

Finally, if you are using Full Synth or Synth/Dino mix, folks have reported slippage due to this slipperier ?sp? oil vs. pure DINO, but it's usually more due to weak springs. Others with good springs have reported using full synth without any slippage...but you're spending/wasting $$$ on synth that will/should be changed every 3K miles anyways due to the contamination that occurs with the looser piston/cylinder clearances vs. modern cars!! So that's why we usually suggest just DINO, your choice of brand from GTX to WALMART....20-50 for Florida weather/heat, and change it often.

HTH! BTW, there's some good pictorial guides here in the tech tips on tearing into and reassembling the clutch if you decide or find you need to replace springs/frictions....see the Extra Steel Plate tip in the MODS/Engine section...just don't bother with the extra Steel Plate, just use the BARNETT springs. The other example is the Dremel Gear Fix in the Repairs/transmission section. Putting the STAR Plate back in is the trickiest part of the process that can get damaged/broken if not careful!

T.C.

[Jeffintampa]

as always guys

Thank you sooo much, I have to have minor surgery next week and will be off work for 3 or so weeks plan on doing some repairs, and maintence. I have about 50,000 miles on it and have changed the oil every 2500-3000 miles. I usally use Super Tech 10-30 synthetic.

[BA80]

Thank you sooo much, I have to have minor surgery next week and will be off work for 3 or so weeks plan on doing some repairs, and maintence. I have about 50,000 miles on it and have changed the oil every 2500-3000 miles. I usally use Super Tech 10-30 synthetic.

Get rid of the 10-30 synthetic and get a jug of Super Tech 20-50 plain old dyno, order some new BARNETTS, get it adjusted properly and you'll have a new bike.

Guaranteed.

BTW......whatever oil you use be sure the API Service label looks like this, blank at the bottom.

[TopCatGr58]

To possibly help save you some work, get some MMO and put about 1/2 bottle or so in the OLD oil/crankcase, start and run/idle engine to normal temps using a FAN across the headers/engine, perhaps on centerstand so you can use the clutch and shift up and down thru the gears a bit as well as work the clutch some 20 or more times...to separate them to allow the MMO to be able to get inbetween and help clean and flush out the synth from their surfaces. DO NOT RIDE or rev the engine much at all, NO LOAD lest you possibly damage the crank/rod bearings while the MMO is in there.

Drain, refill with the 20-50 Greg stated, ADJUST the clutch at the engine side, and TEST ride it. Folks have reported having to do a 2nd oil change before they got rid of the affects of the FULL SYNTH=slipping, but once it was fully flushed out, their clutches behaved normal again. You might get lucky and not have to tear into the engine just yet! JAT!

T.C.

[BA80]

Clutch springs are $20 and a 30 minute job and the heavier Barnetts make a HUGE difference

[TopCatGr58]

Clutch springs are $20 and a 30 minute job and the heavier Barnetts make a HUGE difference

I agree totally, but I also know how EASY it is to break the STAR PLATE by accident(having done it myself the 1st time I worked on mine! ) so just trying to help him avoid having to go there just yet if it's really not necessary=Synth causing the slippage vs. truly worn out springs.

T.C.

[BA80]

I understand TC, however, I went through that with mine when I first got it if you recall.

Changed the oil and everything was good for a short time but within 3-6 months it started slipping again. trbig put me onto the clutch springs and I haven't had an issue since. And, I transferred them from my old engine to this one when I hammered a main bearing in the old one.

[Jeffintampa]

how about this

pretty good by I think http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Speci...r#ht_110wt_846

[BA80]

I don't think you need a whole clutch, just the correct oil and some springs.

[Jeffintampa]

well crap

I ordered a oil filter on ebay, figured I would try the adjustment (shouldnt of messed with it, it worked)
Well I took off the cover, and loosened the 12mm nut, turned the phillips screw counter clockwise about a half turn, and tightened the 12mm nut, took it for a test drive and was alot better.

One problem did developed I squeezed the clutch and it did not go into gear, the arm does not spring back down. Spring is good, can you tighten the 12mm nut to tight? Is my cable bad?

grrr

Need help in Zhills lol.

Jeff

[motoman]

LIGHTLY seat it, then back out a quarter turn, hold and lock nut.........done with lever adjustment all in, after which that is lastly re-adjusted.

[IanDMacDonald]

I ordered a oil filter on ebay, figured I would try the adjustment (shouldnt of messed with it, it worked)
Well I took off the cover, and loosened the 12mm nut, turned the phillips screw counter clockwise about a half turn, and tightened the 12mm nut, took it for a test drive and was alot better.

One problem did developed I squeezed the clutch and it did not go into gear, the arm does not spring back down. Spring is good, can you tighten the 12mm nut to tight? Is my cable bad?

grrr

Need help in Zhills lol.

Jeff

I'm confused. When you say it did not go into gear, what exactly do you mean? You pushed down on the shifter, and nothing? Or, do I have this wrong? I believe when I adjusted mine, I had to go out a little further than spec in manual. But, that adjustment should have no bearing on gear selection. The worst is when that clutch arm pops outta place after pulling the cover, and the ball bearings pop out on you. Pull in the clutch, and it pops it out. Even with a broken cable, gear selection is possible.

[BA80]

+1 on what Ian said. It sounds like an issue with the throwout actuator.