I am stumped

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • XJOK2PLAY
    replied
    Originally posted by bikerphil
    I have tried this and it does work well for finding a misfire. You can usually hear the misfire and see the light missing pulses when you find the problem cylinder.
    Cool! Thanks, Phil.
    I've tracked down many ignition problems on cars this way, just wasn't sure it would work on 11 ignitions.

    Leave a comment:


  • skids
    replied
    Fiber washers are sold at Lowes (and maybe Ace) but they are pretty thin, so you will have to probably double-up with those to prevent too much bending of the tang.

    Leave a comment:


  • BA80
    replied
    I had that issue with the early carbs. If you overtighten the float valve in the carb body it'll crack and leak.

    Leave a comment:


  • WMarshy
    replied
    Originally posted by 79XS11F
    Yes, Master idle is controled at #3. I will not attempt to sync and idle them untill I get this #2 carb issue settled.
    Rob
    JAT, using a thicker washer under the float needle seat will lower the fuel level in the bowl by the difference in thicknes of the AL washer vs the fiber washer. Might only translate to a mm or 2 but just thought I would mention it...

    Leave a comment:


  • 79XS11F
    replied
    Yes, Master idle is controled at #3. I will not attempt to sync and idle them untill I get this #2 carb issue settled.
    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • mack
    replied
    Rob

    Just try matching 1&2, then 4 to 3 then bring all four in line with the center screw. The master idle is linked to #3.

    Leave a comment:


  • 79XS11F
    replied
    Originally posted by mack
    actually #3 is the carb asll the others are sync'd to. But with one of the other three flooding it will cause a big stumble. Sounds like your getting close. May want to check to make sure the float isn't holed in that carb. Do the old boiling water trick and watch for a tril of bubbles. Or shake the crap out of it if the lady is home and won't loan you a pot. If it has any fluid in it, it's toast. Let me know either way cuz I have a couple spares that are good.
    Hey Mack, My Factory manual says #2 is fixed and to sync #1 to #2, 3 & 4 to each other and then pair 3 & 4 to 1 & 2. In any case I changed out the needle valve and it appeared to be sealing but fuel level was way to high or it still leaks. I'll be looking at it again tomorrow to see if the needle is getting fouled when the carb is turned over or if in deed it is still leaking.
    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • 79XS11F
    replied
    Originally posted by vedgar
    If you suspect a float has a hole, use a heat gun or hair dryer and heat the float slightly. Any gas or moisture in the float will be apparent on the outside of the float. A touch of solder to the leaking area and the float will be as good as new.
    I have replaced the brass floats with plastic floats that are not hollow.
    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • vedgar
    replied
    brass float repair

    If you suspect a float has a hole, use a heat gun or hair dryer and heat the float slightly. Any gas or moisture in the float will be apparent on the outside of the float. A touch of solder to the leaking area and the float will be as good as new.

    Leave a comment:


  • mack
    replied
    Well

    actually #3 is the carb asll the others are sync'd to. But with one of the other three flooding it will cause a big stumble. Sounds like your getting close. May want to check to make sure the float isn't holed in that carb. Do the old boiling water trick and watch for a tril of bubbles. Or shake the crap out of it if the lady is home and won't loan you a pot. If it has any fluid in it, it's toast. Let me know either way cuz I have a couple spares that are good.

    Leave a comment:


  • 79XS11F
    replied
    Okay, carb 1,3 and 4 are on the money for the fuel level bench test but #2 is still flooding. Needle valve is soaking in carb cleaner as I type this so I'm really hoping this is the issue given that #2 is the carb that the others are synced to.
    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • 79XS11F
    replied
    Originally posted by mack
    Rob I'll bring some stuff with me. We can do the compression and install the carbs after. Do you need coils. I have some accels here that are brand new, mean for my E but we can check them out . I'll bring new plugs and caps just in case.
    Hi again Mack, I have the excel coils off my hop up bike installed now so I'm pretty sure it's not the coils themselves but could be the signal to them from the pick ups which I have confirmed don't have any broken leads. I'm goeing to continue to work on these carbs for now in case I can get her going. I still think it's some carb issue due to the way the RPMs float when I give the throttle a twist and let go.
    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • mack
    replied
    Stuff

    Rob I'll bring some stuff with me. We can do the compression and install the carbs after. Do you need coils. I have some accels here that are brand new, mean for my E but we can check them out . I'll bring new plugs and caps just in case.

    Leave a comment:


  • 79XS11F
    replied
    Originally posted by mack
    Been a while since I've seen you. Check the diaphram for holes in that #2 carb or at least verify the lip is seated properly.
    Did you get the Katana restored? Hope to see you at next years rally. Coming up to Ottawa next Friday to drop my daughter off at Carleton U. Pm me your address again, I know your close so I could drop by and have a listen. I can bring a set of known carbs with me for you to try. Then we'd know if it's carbs or ignition. You could chase your tail for weeks. I busted my right hand so wrenching is out for me but sometimes two heads.......
    Hey Mack, I will check the diaphams again but they looked good and do stay in the up position when ther air box side mouth port is covered. If your comming up and can bring a set of known good carbs that would be excelent. I could have the bike ready to receive them, pop them on and see what happens. I will PM you my address and phone # and let you know if I sort her out myself bertween now and then. y compression gage is not working so I cant confirm compression but i really have no reason to beleive that there a top end issue going on.
    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • 79XS11F
    replied
    Originally posted by XJOK2PLAY
    Rob,
    JAT, have you tried another spark plug in #2?
    Maybe it's a bad plug? Had that happen to me once.
    New set of plugs, one was factory defective internally.

    If not, and #2 is quite a bit cooler at the header than the others, I'd focus on that cylinder... (ignition, fuel, compression...)
    I wouldn't think it would be a coil problem, but perhaps a wire.
    Coil should affect 2 cylinders, I would think...but ya never know.

    If it's ignition miss, it will show up on your vacuum guage when it happens.

    Header temp trick is a good indicator of cylinder performance, and helps identify which one's giving you the problem, most times.
    The plugs are going back into the engine randomly so it is likely a different plug at least a few times. but I will be checking them as well. I have lots of them here LOL.

    Leave a comment:

Working...