I have been syncing them but it's really a waist of time while she's missing. All timing parts work freely. The bike is stored in a dry heated space.
Anyway. I just took the carbs off AGAIN and I am switching out the brass floats to the plastic ones that were in it when I originally got the bike. I noticed that one of the needle valve bodies was loose. Hmmm, I check the sealing gasket which is made of some sort of fiber and it, like all the others appears deformed and try to slip up over the valve body so I have replaced them with alloy washers. This might be the entire issue even if she wasn't leaking fuel. I now however, can't remember if I set those plastic floats the same as the brass ones. They are the floats that came with the bike when I first got it and I did all my original work from the manual so I will guess that they had been set to the factory spec. I'll keep you posted.
Rob
I am stumped
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Okay, So yesterday I checked and adjusted the valves and confirmed the valve timing. I cleaned the carbs again and they are clean. I set all the floats at 1" and they are all the same. Installed the carbs and there's no leakage of gas and the bike still dose not run right. Here's what I got.
- Misfire on ether #1 or #2 as felt at the tail pipe. bit od back firing. I would call it occasional.
- When I give her a little twist and let go the RPMs seem to float and come down slowly as compared to the typical on/off of a crisp XS1100 that runs well.
- she won't hold an idle setting.
- at idle the vacuum advance is bouncing but not from stop to stop. but there is quivering within a 1/4" back and forth at a high speed.
The exhaust note dose not sound right.
How does one check for exhaust system blockages? Is there any way to do this with out pulling the exhaust? I do feel exhaust flowing on both sides however.
So I guess I will have to do the on the bench fuel height in the bowls thing which I hate do to the time it takes to it. Any other input from anyone will be approached. There's not much "nice" riding time left up here so I would be happy to have her sorted out sooner rather then later .
RobLeave a comment:
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That's what I'm going to do. Give it a COMPLETE tune up and ANOTHER carb cleaning.I would go back and reconfirm those things in your first post. Years ago I put a new dist cap on a Toyota. On a particularly humid day in this northern province of mexico (spell check tried to make me cap the m in that word as if I had some respect for them)it would not start. After several days and too much money that new cap was the problem. I considered it confirmed. I was wrong. What I had ruled out was my problem.
RobLeave a comment:
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I would go back and reconfirm those things in your first post. Years ago I put a new dist cap on a Toyota. On a particularly humid day in this northern province of mexico (spell check tried to make me cap the m in that word as if I had some respect for them)it would not start. After several days and too much money that new cap was the problem. I considered it confirmed. I was wrong. What I had ruled out was my problem.Leave a comment:
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Hey Rob...just wondering with all that assy and dis-assy of the carbs if you are re-synching them each time??? since no one has mentioned it...
Hope you can narrow it down...
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I avoid THAT side of the 'hill'
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BTW, your comment comparing Colo. mountains to western Montana.........could'nt agree more, specially from Big Hole Nat'l Btlfd up to Missoula with the Bitterroots as a backround drop
. Can't forget about Cody's Nat'lFirearmsMuesum either!
Last edited by motoman; 08-13-2014, 12:10 PM.Leave a comment:
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You WOULD have to separate them to clean them properly but not to check them.
The aluminum inside those T's will corrode and close up. The one I ran into I couldn't clean without destroying it as it was badly deteriorated so it had to be replaced. it was plugged solid going into one carb. That was on the green 79.Leave a comment:
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Hey Greg,
Probably inferred with regards to checking the fuel inlet "T's", which they may have felt required the carbs seperated to check the T's. I know they can be checked by just removing the float valve seat and screen, and then can be accessed with carb cleaner spray to insure it can flow. But after reviewing the carb bodies Grant/Mack sent me, I was surprised to see how SMALL the little hole is at the inside END of the Carb body T fitting where it leads into the carb body/float valve needle seat area.
T.C.Leave a comment:
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